I just dumped my oil after 5000km and a track day. Car has 60,000km and I run Honda 10w30 and it was still pretty nice. Doesn't use too much even after a full day tracking at Sandown. I think it's good value and since I change every 5000km not to bad at all. I run it in my CRX ZC race car too and will probably run it in my vintage air cooled stuff this summer as well.
I have never had an issue with factory oil in 12 years of Honda ownership.
The number before the w is the viscosity at -18C. Not a temperature your likely to see. The number after the w is the viscosity at 100C. Considering this number is the same for both oil specifications and the Winter number isn't really that relevant the two oils are basically the same weight.
I was last using Motul 300V Chrono last 5000k's and just changed to 8100 X-cess now. The engine rev seems more responsive to the 300V. Then again the 300V is abit more expensive.
Could somone confirm how much oil to top up when changing oil and filter? isit 4.7L?and do i need to fill the new oil filter up to half way before whacking it on my car?( i think i read that from s2ki). and finally how long are the intervals before i need to change them. p.s running 10w30 feo
cheers
yesterday,i have just changed the oil from hondas mineral since last service 6months ago with 2500km.The oil was fairly dark and i replaced with valvoline synthetic 5/40 from repco.After starting up the engine,i heard the tappet sound for awhile thinking its playing up but guess its the oil going through the chambers.I love the smooth drive.Its good using non mineral the first time.
Penrite HPR 5
Semi-synthetic for the latest generation of high performance engines, particularly those with variable valve timing. Use where SAE 5W-30 or 10W-30 oils and ILSAC GF-3/GF-4 fuel economy oils are called for.
I just put this in recently but have been using FEO Honda oil.
Has anyone tried Bitron added to the oil? I tried in in my 92 Civic and that has done 340 000KM and the engine is still good.
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