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D16a8 with t28/t3 turbo (internal gate), 2nd hand evo3 cooler, custom piping, standard injectors, standard pump, 2nd hand unknown jasma plated 2.5" exhaust with peeshooter, 14" steelies, dc2r sussy
Tune with Crome ECU chip, running 10PSI all day everyday.
I don't think my setup can get any cheaper, made from 2nd hand parts and reused gear.
Most expensive parts would be the custom pipin' and xforce manifold which isnt designed for my engine either!
I haven't had any problems, except my xforce manifold frying my a/c condenser pipes.
I run gear 4 gear with my mates dc2r w/ injen cai, bc xhaust, toda headers tuned 119 @ toda. On a rolling, i munch him though. If i had better wheels and tyres i'd most likely take him from a dig.
I paid 5k for my car, his paid already 4k on em parts and tuning.
Obviously his handles better, and has alot more potential. But most people don't end up modding more than i/e/tune - mayb set of cams and thats it before it's motor out.
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^
How much you pushing at the wheels bro? And how much did the setup cost you, like $2-3g?
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No idea.
I haven't had it dyno'd and it needs a retune because it went to an electronic boost controller (greddy2), just before i purchased it.
It's my daily, but it's the 14" wheels, 2" muffler and fuel setup that's holding me back before i get a re-tune.
Just been doing my routine servicing, has served me well over 3yrs and has started every time so far!
I am doing my apprenticeship, so thinking of building a b16a in class and just bolting on my kit since the manifold was designed for a bseries. Which would explain why i don't hit full boost til 4.5k.
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And also, what clutch are you using?
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 Originally Posted by dougie_504
And also, what clutch are you using?
Exedy HeavyDuty before and after.
It actually still retains the carby box as it was originally a breeze.
So when i did my clutch, i think i put in the wrong clutch kit after reading on these forums but it all fit at the time & she still goes. Just clutch shutter now/sometimes in 1st 
So now i need to figure out what parts to get to build a Dseries box with LSD or just go B, considering i have to do this to pass my course anyway.
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stick to d, if ur wanting the fame and glory, b-series if u want more power with out opening the engine, b-series with a bolton turbo will make more than a d-series ill admit that.... And if ur gonna get a b-series might as well get a b-series with a lsd in place already, but if ur sticking to d-series, only company i know of makes a lsd is Quaife, around 1k give or take, pretty cheap for a lsd, well worth investment, OBX version (ebay) the el cheapo has bad reviews and rep which is why i wouldnt recommend getting one
both are equalling the same in terms of price building
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 Originally Posted by hiepy
Exedy HeavyDuty before and after.
It actually still retains the carby box as it was originally a breeze.
So when i did my clutch, i think i put in the wrong clutch kit after reading on these forums but it all fit at the time & she still goes. Just clutch shutter now/sometimes in 1st 
So now i need to figure out what parts to get to build a Dseries box with LSD or just go B, considering i have to do this to pass my course anyway.
So the regular Exedy HD clutch is holding out with the turbo build? Because I know a bloke who was making about 100kw ATW on his D16Y8 and his Exedy HD was slipping, so I'm interested to see what kind of power you're making. If I were to turbo my D16Y1 some day I'd have to address the clutch so I'd need to know if a Exedy HD would be enough or if I'd need something tougher. Probably tougher.
 Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
stick to d, if ur wanting the fame and glory, b-series if u want more power with out opening the engine, b-series with a bolton turbo will make more than a d-series ill admit that.... And if ur gonna get a b-series might as well get a b-series with a lsd in place already, but if ur sticking to d-series, only company i know of makes a lsd is Quaife, around 1k give or take, pretty cheap for a lsd, well worth investment, OBX version (ebay) the el cheapo has bad reviews and rep which is why i wouldnt recommend getting one
both are equalling the same in terms of price building
Agreed. Stick to the D because it rocks. The B and K series wagons will all tell you to swap but you'll probably make as much power by weight as their super-awesome-rare I/H/E setups anyway.
For LSD for my B-series I'm going to buy a Quaife one, the other brand I saw in the market was MFactory but I have no idea if they do D-series LSD's. Wouldn't waste my time trying to find an OEM one either lol.
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Im running 179kw on my B series with stock eg fuel pump and exedy hd organic clutch.
I wouldn't sit in a turbo Honda that hasn't been dyno tuned either.
All up including power fc and dyno time my turbo has costed 3k with disco potato cast manifold 2.5 dump 2.5 cooler piping big intercooler blox IM and TB
+ 3k for the complete b18c swap + 1000 for fkups.
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 Originally Posted by RandyRhydah
Im running 179kw on my B series with stock eg fuel pump and exedy hd organic clutch.
I wouldn't sit in a turbo Honda that hasn't been dyno tuned either.
All up including power fc and dyno time my turbo has costed 3k with disco potato cast manifold 2.5 dump 2.5 cooler piping big intercooler blox IM and TB
+ 3k for the complete b18c swap + 1000 for fkups.
damn that's cheap lol. DIY swap etc?
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yeah all done myself except tuning and welding
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