cu2 mods

[furythree]

damn i wish i lived in melbourne...

[euroRwannabe]

damn i wish i lived in melbourne...

trust me bro, melbourne aint that great, i wish i lived in brizzy so i can get hooked up with Paul at bodykitskingdom,
melbourne = 4 seasons in a day, on occasions puddles everywhere caused by random rain = risk of water logging if you had a CAI

[Kwangstuhhh]

yeah,u mean the red one? same same,
ballast is the metal thingy that conects to the hid igniter,,,
**in before kwangstuhh says im an idiot :P**

You're still an idiot Tony :P hehe

To simply put think of the ballast to be a "transformer" mechanism that pumps more power/voltage into the bulb...

trust me bro, melbourne aint that great, i wish i lived in brizzy so i can get hooked up with Paul at bodykitskingdom,
melbourne = 4 seasons in a day, on occasions puddles everywhere caused by random rain = risk of water logging if you had a CAI

True, but Brizzy is sooooooooo effing boring...trust me...haha

[MKI4EVA]

MKI4EVA. Looks like Usd is getting closer to 1.10.

hahahah I know.....I trade currency markets and indices daily.

kinda uming and aring about getting a DC2R that's why I haven't bought the sus for the euro.

have been buying golfing gear instead lol.

[MR_LATE]

yeah thats the word i was looking for, "TRANSformer" more than meets the eye?

[hondar]

As you know natnat, buying wheels is a very difficult choice & i have looked into a number of options. Firstly I was looking for a set of OEM 18's with no scratches or gutter rash, That was unsuccessful. I then sent 2 online applications to JDM Concept looking to buy a set of SSR Vienna LM9's, I received no reply to either application which tells me they are not interested in my Business. I have visited every tyre dealer in the area & they had nothing that suited my taste. Next option was searching online, I liked some of the RonJon wheels from the states, but importing was not a feasible option. So it came down to a set of BBS or Enkie's & they are the 2 wheels that I asked for thoughts on.

Hi buddah51au, i never received any emails from you. two possible problems, either you didnt enter the correct email address for us to reply back or it was caught by spam filter. either way we are aware of this problem and we are rolling out jdmc v2 which will ensure all enquries are received.

we always answer email and LM9 not hard to get quote for...

[furythree]

what did youend up getting buddah? i struck out on the ron jons too

[buddah51au]

Nothing as yet mate, still running OEM. It is such a tough decision, add to that I Have probate on a deceased estate in progress which is making me think about updating to the new model CU2 when it arrives. But also in mind is the fact that my car rarely leaves the garage these days, so why spend money on it. Since moving to Hervey Bay, everything I need is within a few kms, so it is far better to do what is needed on 2 wheels. The car just sits in a garage with a cover over it. I am in no hurry to make any decisions, but at present I intend to wait for probate to be finalised & I will either update to a new CU2, or keep what I have, add a nice set of wheels, a Modulo kit & possibly a Fujitsubo exhaust, bit will definitely not be lowering it.

Regardless of getting an update model or keeping my current car I think I will be getting a set of Work Varianza SCHWERT SC1. That is my current thinking anyway.

[furythree]

price? pics?

[buddah51au]

Work Varianza Schwerts C1

[WarrenM]

They delivered the wrong model air filter - took a week to get it exchanged! Finally put it in yesterday. Definitely makes a serious difference! So does keeping away from Shell 95 Octane - that stuff is just hopeless!

I've lined up my hardware for a serious electronic makeover:

• Bury CC9060 IQ voice-controlled Bluetooth
• Bury Series 9 Modular Base and Active Phone Cradle for HTC Desire
• JBL MS-8 8-channel Digital Sound Processor / 8-channel Amplifier
• Alpine MRV-F405 4-channel Amplifier
• Schneider SPA 6000x mono block Amplifier
• Hertz HSK 165 splits (new model) for front doors
• Infinity 652i coax speakers for back doors
• Infinity 652i coax speakers for rear parcel shelf
• Infinity 452i coax speaker for centre front shelf
• Phase Linear HD-12 sub-woofer for boot
• SSL 3.5 Farad stiffening capacitor

Now it's just a matter of getting Juerg of Auto Acoustics to put it all together, with some Dynamat, cables, woodwork, sweat and ingenuity.

Piece of cake!

Well it has been over a month since my installation was to take place, and I'm not much closer to it. My son's motor bike was damaged while parked and TOTALLED so he's been using my wife's car until the bike gets replaced. So I can't monopolise her car while mine is in the audio shop. Hopefully in two weeks' time.

In the meantime, the audio has been adjusted. Gone are the back door speakers. An extra amplifier has been thrown in - a Schneider SPA 9702A 2-channel amp. My Hertz HSK165 splits are being split - they are losing the passive crossover and going active crossover so they can be time-aligned by the JBL MS-8.

I'm also replacing the battery, going for a FULLRIVER 12V 55AH DEEP CYCLE AGM battery. This battery is 100% spill-proof even if damaged, can be discharged to over 80% of capacity which makes it excellent for high power amps, yet provides sufficient instantaneous cranking current for repeated engine starting. It has a 2 year warranty and a 5-to-10 year service life. Actual voltage available will be significantly greater than 12 volts, probably over 14 volts, which is optimum for most high quality car audio amplifiers. The 3.5 farad capacitor should keep the voltage to the amps more-or-less constant to the amplifiers. The battery terminals will be replaced with gold-plated terminals with digital voltage readout, able to accept multiple + and - cables up to 0GA. Total fuse requirements still to be determined.

• Bury CC9060 IQ voice-controlled Bluetooth
• Bury Series 9 Modular Base and Active Phone Cradle for HTC Desire
• JBL MS-8 8-channel Digital Sound Processor / 8-channel Amplifier
• Alpine MRV-F405 4-channel Amplifier
• Schneider SPA 3072A 2-channel Amplifier
• Schneider SPA 6000x mono block Amplifier
• Hertz HSK 165 splits (new model) for front doors and pillars (replacing existing speakers)
• Infinity 652i coax speakers for rear parcel shelf (replacing existing speakers)
• Infinity 452i coax speaker for centre front shelf (replacing existing speaker)
• Phase Linear HC-12 subwoofer for boot
• VFM Audio 1.4 cu ft sealed subwoofer enclosure
• SSL 3.5 Farad stiffening capacitor
• FullRiver 12V 55AH deep cycle AGM battery

I have edge-braced and massively sound-deadened the subwoofer enclosure. For some subs sound-deadening can be a problem as it effectively increases the volume by perhaps 15%, putting more strain on the sub's motor (most subs rely to some extent on the internal air pressure of the enclosure to help the motor return the cone to rest. The Phase Linear sub can be used as a "free-air" sub, so its motor is not expected to require that help).

The wheel arches have been sound-deadened, using 3M Sound Deadener spray paint. The result has been very good, but I shall be adding more sound deadener in the next few days as I'm not completely happy with it yet.

The bonnet has been sound-deadened using a combination of constrained layer dampening (CLD) (like DynaMat) over 25% of the surface, then covered by foam-backed Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV). Sound deadening the bonnet has been very instructive - the direction of engine noise has changed from my face to my feet, meaning that the bonnet was one major conduit of engine noise, with the rest coming through the firewall.

The boot area under the spare tyre has been sound deadened using CLD 25% and completely covered by MLV. Exhaust noise has been lessened, but not nearly enough - the rest of the boot floor needs to be done.

The following areas will be similarly sound-proofed or sound-deadened:

• Rear shelf
• Boot
• Doors
• Firewall
• Floor between firewall and front seats

That's all for now

Regards
Warren

[Fredoops]

Well it has been over a month since my installation was to take place, and I'm not much closer to it. My son's motor bike was damaged while parked and TOTALLED so he's been using my wife's car until the bike gets replaced. So I can't monopolise her car while mine is in the audio shop. Hopefully in two weeks' time.

In the meantime, the audio has been adjusted. Gone are the back door speakers. An extra amplifier has been thrown in - a Schneider SPA 9702A 2-channel amp. My Hertz HSK165 splits are being split - they are losing the passive crossover and going active crossover so they can be time-aligned by the JBL MS-8.

I'm also replacing the battery, going for a FULLRIVER 12V 55AH DEEP CYCLE AGM battery. This battery is 100% spill-proof even if damaged, can be discharged to over 80% of capacity which makes it excellent for high power amps, yet provides sufficient instantaneous cranking current for repeated engine starting. It has a 2 year warranty and a 5-to-10 year service life. Actual voltage available will be significantly greater than 12 volts, probably over 14 volts, which is optimum for most high quality car audio amplifiers. The battery terminals will be replaced with gold-plated terminals with digital voltage readout, able to accept multiple + and - cables up to 0GA. Total fuse requirements still to be determined.

• Bury CC9060 IQ voice-controlled Bluetooth
• Bury Series 9 Modular Base and Active Phone Cradle for HTC Desire
• JBL MS-8 8-channel Digital Sound Processor / 8-channel Amplifier
• Alpine MRV-F405 4-channel Amplifier
• Schneider SPA 3072A 2-channel Amplifier
• Schneider SPA 6000x mono block Amplifier
• Hertz HSK 165 splits (new model) for front doors
  
• Infinity 652i coax speakers for back doors
• Infinity 652i coax speakers for rear parcel shelf
• Infinity 452i coax speaker for centre front shelf
• Phase Linear HC-12 subwoofer for boot
• VFM Audio 1.4 cu ft sealed subwoofer enclosure
• SSL 3.5 Farad stiffening capacitor
• FullRiver 12V 55AH deep cycle AGM battery

I have edge-braced and massively sound-deadened the subwoofer enclosure. For some subs sound-deadening can be a problem as it effectively increases the volume by perhaps 15%, putting more strain on the sub's motor (most subs rely to some extent on the internal air pressure of the enclosure to help the motor return the cone to rest. The Phase Linear sub can be used as a "free-air" sub, so its motor is not expected to require that help).

The wheel arches have been sound-deadened, using 3M Sound Deadener spray paint. The result has been very good, but I shall be adding more sound deadener in the next few days.

The bonnet has been sound-deadened using a combination of constrained layer dampening (CLD) (like DynaMat) over 25% of the surface, then covered by foam-backed Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV).

The spare tyre area of the boot has been sound deadened using CLD 25% and completely covered by MLV.

The following areas will be similarly sound-proofed or sound-deadened:

• Rear shelf
• Boot
• Doors
• Firewall
• Floor between firewall and front seats

That's all for now

Regards
Warren

Nice work dude, btw Infinity speakers?!? I think Kia Optima has those as standard lol, they must be good.