To a point, you’re right cause for many it is really hard for many to meet a 140kw power target without upping the compression,
But in reality, it’s not really that hard at all… & here’s how you do it.
Using an AUDM B18C7 engine as an example, the only things that need to be changed are as follows:
Spec B cams, springs, pulleys / Mugen airbox (A real one, not a copy)
TODA header (Not a copy or cheap substitute) / 60mm ~65mm exhaust system & 100cel metal cat
ECU, fuel pump & fuel pressure regulator
& the key... (This is what gets you over the line) - CNC 5 angle valve job
The angles used are quite different to the std 3 angle (30deg / 45deg / 60deg) seats found in the B.
The benefit is greatly improve flow a low lift values.
This combined with “secret squirrel” to the intake ports is all that need to be done. (Some things are secret
)
+ Obviously a good tune
Done right, you’ll hit 140kw every time
Also for 140 at the wheels with a std bottom end B18C7, what you don’t need to do is:
Port the head / Change the intake manifold / Change the throttle body / Use plastic intake gaskets / Fit wacky earth kits
Slaz just told you, 86mm bore & 95mm stroke which works out to 2207cc
Maybe ok for drag racing but not ideal for circuit use.
IMO, the best B-series combo by a long way is 85mm bore & 87.2mm stroke – 1979cc
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