Power expectations from Fully built b18c7

[jdm_typer]

why dont you just turbo it straight away and save your money, doing it NA will be very peaky power delivery for a street car

Im still on my P's im hoping maby end of next year or the year after im going to Turbo it but im rebuilding the block aswell so when i do boost it, it can handle big amounts of boost

[fatboyz39]

If you want power go for K-series.

B series you'll end up spending well over 10k and yet won't reach that target goal. What 1/4mile pass are you aiming for? That would be a better indication.

Intake system will need to be address, header and exhaust system will need to be address. Look further into close ratio gear sets.

[Benson]

i have to agree with most of the guys here suggesting K-series

Unless your really bothered and can afford a fully built B-series and account for cost when it does blow up, then go ahead with your build. You'll end up spending 15k - 20k to get your power goals

The K-series has proven to make an easily 160kw's with a set of stage 2 cams. They make a buckleload more torque (due to Variable cam timing) and has a much better transmission (6 speed). There coilpacks can handle 700-800hp. There are other advantages to a K-series, but i've list some of the basic.

Now when off your P's, you can either supercharge or turbocharge the K-series. You can easily make 450-550hp on a stock bottom end!

The thing to your gotta think about when you do your B-series build, what are you going to do if it blow's? Can you afford another rebuild? We all dont want to hear about motor blowing, but its something you gotta plan and discuss about

[jdm_typer]

If you want power go for K-series.

B series you'll end up spending well over 10k and yet won't reach that target goal. What 1/4mile pass are you aiming for? That would be a better indication.

Intake system will need to be address, header and exhaust system will need to be address. Look further into close ratio gear sets.

I want to honestly get a Mid 12 sec pass ive already dropped in 13k so budget wise i think im alright i kno every1 is telling me K series but its not what i wanted now if anything ill do it down the track, i just wanted some info on the b-series thats y i posted the question seems like every1 just says K series lol

[jdm_typer]

i have to agree with most of the guys here suggesting K-series

Unless your really bothered and can afford a fully built B-series and account for cost when it does blow up, then go ahead with your build. You'll end up spending 15k - 20k to get your power goals

The K-series has proven to make an easily 160kw's with a set of stage 2 cams. They make a buckleload more torque (due to Variable cam timing) and has a much better transmission (6 speed). There coilpacks can handle 700-800hp. There are other advantages to a K-series, but i've list some of the basic.

Now when off your P's, you can either supercharge or turbocharge the K-series. You can easily make 450-550hp on a stock bottom end!

The thing to your gotta think about when you do your B-series build, what are you going to do if it blow's? Can you afford another rebuild? We all dont want to hear about motor blowing, but its something you gotta plan and discuss about

Hey thank you soo much for your opinion and i really appreciate it and i kno K series would have been more smarter but i really wanted to build the B series as i mentioned b4 if anything i will go K series down the track and ive budget 13k atm willing to push it abit more but well see how it goes.

[TODA AU]

Im still on my P's im hoping maby end of next year or the year after im going to Turbo it but im rebuilding the block aswell so when i do boost it, it can handle big amounts of boost

So leave it alone until then, keep saving & do it once & do it right.
It'll be better, cheaper, faster, & more reliable in the long run.
All you need is patience.
Also, an N/A 1.8L b-series that makes 160kw @ the wheels won't really be ideal to boost.

[Touge Tom]

So leave it alone until then, keep saving & do it once & do it right.
It'll be better, cheaper, faster, & more reliable in the long run.
All you need is patience.
Also, an N/A 1.8L b-series that makes 160kw @ the wheels won't really be ideal to boost.

is that because the sleves are too thin? or the composite of steel used is too weak? what 'bout a set of 8:1 comp forged pistons? and going from all motor to boost he'd have to swap out to smaller boost spec cam's & piston to suit anyway.

to jdm_typer, why not just build for boost in the first place? i went the N/A path with a B20vtec, in my DA9. and then 5 years later i bought a DC2 with a B20vtec-JRSC for $12,500 from GPC. and i know for sure i spent more on motor,internals and g-box, for my DA9.

[89lude]

Pretty sure adrian simply means if you build a 1.8 n/a monster to make 160kw the specs of the rebuild won't suit boost down the track. He'll have to build a new motor to suit the boost to be reliable.

[mocchi]

is that because the sleves are too thin? or the composite of steel used is too weak? what 'bout a set of 8:1 comp forged pistons? and going from all motor to boost he'd have to swap out to smaller boost spec cam's & piston to suit anyway.

to jdm_typer, why not just build for boost in the first place? i went the N/A path with a B20vtec, in my DA9. and then 5 years later i bought a DC2 with a B20vtec-JRSC for $12,500 from GPC. and i know for sure i spent more on motor,internals and g-box, for my DA9.

i think because to get that sort of kw from NA, you need high compression.
high compression motor is not good for boost.

[Touge Tom]

i think because to get that sort of kw from NA, you need high compression.
high compression motor is not good for boost.

i thought my post was suggestive enough? ie;8:1 comp pistons?

[cotties]

it all depends on what you want out of it.
personally i think its great u want to stick to b series and they have been proven time and time again to be built proof if done right.
but you really have to plan well, you can price up the internals to your hearts content, but any good builder knows thats only half of it, for a high power b series motor you need lots of mods to all the systems and lot of them has to be custom.

personally i would do a build like this.
get a erl superdeck block (erl can supply the core) its much cheaper than a dart block and requires far less work.
due to wanting to run NA i would go for 9.5/10:1 comp forged pistons, 10:1 is still low enough to run moderate boost levels and still keeps the motor very responsive.
have the block bored out to 84 or 85mm to bring the cc up to the 2000 mark.
some nice strong I beam rods and arp head and rod bolts
go for a milder cam like a stage 1 or 2
get your head ported and flowed.
oversize your valves by .5mm
upgrade all the valve train
get a new intake manifold like skunk2 or edlebrock victor x and a 68mm throttle body
get a cheap exhaust manifold for NA and a custom 3 inch cat back for when you go turbo

now all this will get you a nice NA setup and it would pretty much be ready to install the turbo.
the most important part is what your going to do with turbo size and your mods to fuel and ignition system.

you will need to get 2 different sizes of injectors for the different setups so thats a waisted cost, you will also have to have it tuned twice.
if you want to go past 280-300kw your going to need to change the whole ignition system to individual coils, which is one of the benefits of k series, this is a major cost.
the pcv system will need to be looked at with the turbo motor.
turbo size will be a big factor, i would preferably go for a large turbo like a gt38 or a gt4088r, mainly cause you want to run the lowest boost you can but have the most flow you can.
with the 10:1 you should be able to run 12-14 psi before you start pinging. that should put you up in the 250kw plus range, which is more than enough for any street car.

but to be honest you are going to struggle to do it for 13k, even to boost the factory engine properly will cost you upwards of 7-8k by the time your done.

[89lude]

i thought my post was suggestive enough? ie;8:1 comp pistons?

I think he responded because you asked about the sleeves etc. Obviously compression is one factor but also cam profiles to make high n/a power generally wont suit boost. Generally, n/a cams have alot of overlap, but too much overlap doesn't suit boost applications due to the backpressure when using a turbo setup. But in saying this alot of the time entry level n/a cams are used on turbo motors to make big power, this is why people invest in quality manifolds that dont create too much backpressure to use n/a cams safely.

it all depends on what you want out of it.
personally i think its great u want to stick to b series and they have been proven time and time again to be built proof if done right.
but you really have to plan well, you can price up the internals to your hearts content, but any good builder knows thats only half of it, for a high power b series motor you need lots of mods to all the systems and lot of them has to be custom.

personally i would do a build like this.
get a erl superdeck block (erl can supply the core) its much cheaper than a dart block and requires far less work.
due to wanting to run NA i would go for 9.5/10:1 comp forged pistons, 10:1 is still low enough to run moderate boost levels and still keeps the motor very responsive.
have the block bored out to 84 or 85mm to bring the cc up to the 2000 mark.
some nice strong I beam rods and arp head and rod bolts
go for a milder cam like a stage 1 or 2
get your head ported and flowed.
oversize your valves by .5mm
upgrade all the valve train
get a new intake manifold like skunk2 or edlebrock victor x and a 68mm throttle body
get a cheap exhaust manifold for NA and a custom 3 inch cat back for when you go turbo

now all this will get you a nice NA setup and it would pretty much be ready to install the turbo.
the most important part is what your going to do with turbo size and your mods to fuel and ignition system.

you will need to get 2 different sizes of injectors for the different setups so thats a waisted cost, you will also have to have it tuned twice.
if you want to go past 280-300kw your going to need to change the whole ignition system to individual coils, which is one of the benefits of k series, this is a major cost.
the pcv system will need to be looked at with the turbo motor.
turbo size will be a big factor, i would preferably go for a large turbo like a gt38 or a gt4088r, mainly cause you want to run the lowest boost you can but have the most flow you can.
with the 10:1 you should be able to run 12-14 psi before you start pinging. that should put you up in the 250kw plus range, which is more than enough for any street car.

but to be honest you are going to struggle to do it for 13k, even to boost the factory engine properly will cost you upwards of 7-8k by the time your done.

Imo, there is still alot of compromise here which means you wont make the n/a power figure then you have a mediocre turbo setup too...best to stick to one route. Thats just my opinion though.