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  1. #1609
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by Riced_Civic View Post
    isnt beeza running a bisi cam
    Cam gear not shaft I think. Pretty sure he's running an a6 shaft

  2. #1610
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Doncaster, Melbourne
    Car:
    ES1 Turbo, EK1
    ahh thought he was running both shaft and gear
    Car: 05' Civic Turbo Car: EK 97'
    Motor - D17 Motor - B20T
    Winton - 1:47 Winton - 1:46
    7th Gen Melbourne #1

  3. #1611
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    im running a D15b7 with D16a6 shaft and Bisimoto cam gear
    to be honest the cam gear isnt that good
    the dial marks rubbed off easily
    the dial bolts were of poor quality
    and the points of the dial bolts rubbed on the inner timing belt guard - causing a tonne of plastic shavings to get caught up in the timing belt
    lucky there was no damage

    next time i would definatly go for a skunk2 unit instead
    much better design with allen key bolts
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

  4. #1612
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Civic EJ8
    Quote Originally Posted by TheSaint View Post
    no - not all of them are - but most
    the D16y8/D16z6/D16y1/D15b ARE interchangeable
    and all have the best ratios u can get out of the series
    cheers man, rushed off to buy a y1 gb for my y8 engine, gear ratios are very very close so i doubt id feel any difference

    shame that d-series gb aint that strong as ive found out

    from what i was shown, 3 bearings gone, one being the main culprit, the input shaft bearing, syncros worn out, but other wise the gears them selfs, 10/10

    price of a rebuild a staggering 1.5k !?!?!?!???!?!?!?!??! >_<
    I <3 BOOST! D16+T SOHC

  5. #1613
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EG+CL9
    the best 3 gearbox's for the D are the D15b, D16y1/D16z6 and the D16y8
    the problem with the D16y8 box is that it is stamped the same as the D16y5 box's in australia (S40 B000)
    so you can never tell which you are getting - normal ratio box's being S40 A000

    good thing about the D15b and D15y1 is that the better ratio ones all have S20 B000
    and the ones with the not as good ratios are all S20 A000

    the strongest of the whole range is the JDM D15b
    some of these even came with LSD from factory
    this is also the box that Bisi uses in his 700hp monster
    and what i am running on mine at the moment
    (still not bullet proof - but crap loads better than my D15b7 box)

    be careful to mention this when dealing with wreckers - they will happily sell you a "D16y1" gearbox
    but it might be off a D15b7 etc because to them all D box's are the same
    i had many heated discussions on the phone to wreckers about this until i finally found a proper JDM D15b box at Honbits in perth
    what a mission that was - end up costing around $600 for the box, $200ish for exedy o.e clutch and exedy 10lbs flywheel
    + couple of hundred to my mechanic to fit it all up with new fluids and sump bolt
    ----------------------------
    D15b Turbo EG Sedan Build + CL9 Lux N/A Build
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127680

  6. #1614
    Abit ot but Hondbits were great, got a few bits and pieces from there few years back. Few months ago went looking for them and they have closed down. Shame really because they were very helpful and they could source anything you needed.

  7. #1615
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Brisbane Queensland
    Car:
    1985 ford laser
    I know plenty what goes on at d-series.org believe me. Im just curious to know if anyone on ozhonda / in australia has tried one yet
    Light up with Lyle - Electrical / Communications / Instrumentation

  8. #1616
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Quote Originally Posted by TheSaint View Post
    im running a D15b7 with D16a6 shaft and Bisimoto cam gear
    to be honest the cam gear isnt that good
    the dial marks rubbed off easily
    the dial bolts were of poor quality
    and the points of the dial bolts rubbed on the inner timing belt guard - causing a tonne of plastic shavings to get caught up in the timing belt
    lucky there was no damage

    next time i would definatly go for a skunk2 unit instead
    much better design with allen key bolts

    That US guy was saying that the Crower gear is top. Looked into that at all?

  9. #1617
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    JDMD15B
    Car:
    14EGs/8EDs/3EKs
    So why did my post relating to headers/intakes get deleted ?
    JDM D15B - you wouldn't understand

    No K-SWAP ? No worries - Unfriend

  10. #1618
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Cabramatta,NSW
    Car:
    DB6
    okay so now im confused reading mixed things

    what does top end and mid etc mean ?

    i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??

  11. #1619
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Civic EJ8
    Quote Originally Posted by viinnh View Post
    okay so now im confused reading mixed things

    what does top end and mid etc mean ?

    i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??
    u mean as in the power band????????

    top end = the power is all in the top end rpm range, so no good on a dd, good example are the b16b, good power, but u can never really acess all 180hp unless u fang it till 8200rpm, which in old terms is a whipper snipper engine LOL....

    and for mid, as plainly as it is, power is all in the mid rpm range, which is what most cars are like, which is ideal for dd....

    good 0-100? no one with a d-series does that LOL, unless u plan on boosting it, than take it to the twisty rds instead, u appreciate it even more
    I <3 BOOST! D16+T SOHC

  12. #1620
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Brisbane Qld
    Car:
    2 Tonne Ek Tank
    Quote Originally Posted by viinnh View Post
    okay so now im confused reading mixed things

    what does top end and mid etc mean ?

    i just want good power lets say 0-100 ??
    Top end = high rpm
    mid = mid range rpm

    Depends on your budget too, quality cai is roughly twice the price of a fake whale penis intake, if you want good power i recommend the fujita Cai intake for your ek, it uses a smaller diameter pipe than than the injen which suits the d16y4 better.
    "I have no idols. I admire work, dedication and competence." - Ayrton Senna


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