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modding a b16a2.
Hey guys, I did a quick search but couldn't find anything.
I plan on modding my b16a2. Atm I have a Injen cai and I plan on putting it on the dyno first to see what it makes. So I know what my start off is.
I don't want to build anything crazy, if I was I know its smarter to do a conversion. But I'm just after abit more power out of the b16. No plans on tracking but I would like to in the near future.
Atm I plan on just getting a skunk2 intake manifold. And skunk2 68mm throttle body but I hear a dc2r tb is not too bad.
Got a spoon n1 axle plan on custom b pipe, high flow cat and headers. Unsure of what headers to get.
Now the next part is what I'm most curious of. Head work.
I do want to have a mild head, but I have no idea where to start. What brands to use, some ppl just dc2r cams and say it good. Iduno.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks. This is a work in progress and I plan to research as much as I can and start early next year.
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 Originally Posted by Importsneezer
Got a spoon n1 axle plan on custom b pipe, high flow cat and headers. Unsure of what headers to get.
Depends on if you want good top or bottom end, looks and budget.
i got DC Sports 4-1 Stainless Steel - its got alot of torque from 0-100 especially if matched with a CAI or short ram.
4-2-1 will be sluggish at the 0-100 but will provide good RPM response to mid-high ranges.
 Originally Posted by Importsneezer
I do want to have a mild head, but I have no idea where to start. What brands to use, some ppl just dc2r cams and say it good. Iduno.
DC2R OEM cams are great as a cheap option - and u can run them using your OEM P2T ecu.
If you go branded stuff, you may want to consider matching valve springs, retainers, moly's and importantly programmable ECU to gain the full potential of the head work and you can rev out longer too.
Rule of thumb:
In any modification you decide on, consider the following;
- Fuel economy / consumption?
- Power vs drivability?
- Noise or quiteness?
- Rich or poor budget?
- Future plans with the car?
have a think and then decide from there.
Good luck with your plan bra.. and enjoy modding!
B to BFrank to K .... ive had it ......
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I used to have DC sports 4-1 headers and now run 4-2-1 headers & personally, I believe my car is a hell of a alot quicker with the 4-2-1 headers. I had 102fwkw with the 4-1 headers (on a b18c) with 140nm but after going to the 4-2-1 headers I made a 15nm gain at around 4,000rpm and made 98fwkw/147nm @ the same rpm (approx 7,700rpm/6,200rpm). Remember kw wins pub battles, nm wins races.
When building your cylinder head, you need to ask yourself, are you chasing kw or nm and where abouts in the rev range are you wanting to make the most gains. At a minimum, I would match port your inlet/exhaust manifolds with your cylinder head, install a good set of valve springs with retainers (eg. Toda valve springs & retainers) and then think about camshaft profile & adjustable cam gears (as this will shift power & torque bands). Also depending on the size of cams/valves etc you go, you will have to upgrade fuel/ignition/ecu systems accordingly
Last edited by stndrd; 13-12-2011 at 08:50 PM.
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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i would recommend getting Fujita CAI over Injen
better quality all round and much better Pod design =)
i would also consider clutch and flywheel upgrades
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Exhaust idea sounds good mate.
What is your budget? This is the most important question.
I have built my b16a head. Skunk2 cam shafts/gears, Supertech springs/retainers, Jun oversized valves, ported + matched manifolds, ITR TB/IM, re-welded combustion chambers etc.
It's not worth it for the price you pay and the gains you make! But if you insist I would recommend shaving the head to bump the compression. I didn't do this but I hear it does wonders.
Honestly I would recommend doing the exhaust, get a dc2r throttle body + intake manifold, and if you're not happy then do a b20 swap or just buy a dc2r gearbox and put in a HD clutch/lightweight flywheel.
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Forget about the intake manifold and throttle body, the b16 already has a decent set up, port ur current component if u really want to. Finish your exhaust and intake.
A lot of people have had significant improvements with HD clutch and light flywheel. Won't really net u any extra power but will allow u to use your power more efficiently. Or you could just go for a dc2r Gbox, although they are quite expensive I guarantee it improve ur speed more than anything else in that price range.
If you are doing head work, keep it mild and don't raise the rpm, ur stock crank shaft won't cope.
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 Originally Posted by vtecing
Forget about the intake manifold and throttle body, the b16 already has a decent set up, port ur current component if u really want to. Finish your exhaust and intake.
A lot of people have had significant improvements with HD clutch and light flywheel. Won't really net u any extra power but will allow u to use your power more efficiently. Or you could just go for a dc2r Gbox, although they are quite expensive I guarantee it improve ur speed more than anything else in that price range.
If you are doing head work, keep it mild and don't raise the rpm, ur stock crank shaft won't cope.
+1. You will see a much better improvement by upgrading to a dc2r box with a nice hd or cushion button clutch & lightweight flywheel as opposed to spending thousands on head work that will net minimul power gains. By increasing your final drive you are effectivaly adding power for minimul costs.
Example: I have a customer that has a stock ep3 (only has gruppe m intake, standard exhaust) with a 5.46fd that will chop any ep3 with I/h/e all day everyday and does consistant 1:44 at winton on street tyres as opposed to ther ep3's I have heard or doing 1:45's with I/h/e and mild cams on street tyres
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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5.4fd? What's the top speed, 150? Lol
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I'm not 100% sure but I'd be saying around the 180km/h, but being at Winton, you don't really reach V-max as you spend most of your time between 80-140km/h
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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Yeah, but what if you decide to go Phillip Island? 180km/hour won't serve you well there. I wouldn't go that short on an FD for track, no shorter than 4.7. My mate uses 4.4 and he still gets to 200ish at Winton/Sandown in his standard EF8. 210-220 at PI.
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5.4fd lol gangster shit.. cruising at 100 in 5th gear at 6k .. draiinnerrrrr!
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Each to their own at the end of the day. I personally advised against it but some people never listen....
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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