their are numerous compounds out there all depends on personal preferance really im a painter by trade and i usually like to you farecla g3 liquid compound first to burnish the paint up to a gloss first then followed by a swirl remover/glaze then lastly a liquid hardwax ontop for protection. I use autoglym products for polish and wax as they hold up really well and are easy to apply.
When cutting and buffing break down the panels into small sections
try not to stay in the same spot when buffing spread the pressure over an area of 30-40 cms otherwise you can heat the panel up and it can warp or you can buff through the paint and mark it.
hope this helps
if you hav never used a rotary buffer before i wouldnt practise on your new paintjob
@Mochhi, the reason why Aarronng asked if it was done profeesionally or not was the gauge the amount of work required or maybe even to suggest her go back to the guy who did the job to get the cut back done
any compound will do, you need a pretty fair abrasive then will need to go through subsequent stages with a finer polish to remove any marring from the original cut back
why does it matter? urethane is still urethane whether sprayed at home or in shop. if question was using urethane or acrylic?
It matters because if it is done at home the finish can be a bit coarser which means a compound may be insufficient as the first step. Instead, a wet sanding step with a 1500 grit wet abrasive paper wrapped around a foam block is used before going onto the compound.
Is the finish smooth or does it look like it has severe orange peel? You might find that a compound as the first step insufficient in leveling the paint surface if the orange peel is strong. In that case, wet sanding with a 1500-2000 grit wet abrasive paper may be required. It is more difficult than using a compound with a rotary, but you can practice beforehand on a baking tray.
I'm not sure if you can use Autoglym paint renovator (abrasive polish) with a random orbital. But that stuff works pretty good
A random orbital does not provide enough cutting action. Even to remove regular swirls on a car's original paint, I need to use a medium compound on a medium cut pad on a rotary. Using the same compound and pad on a random orbital did not do much, even after 8 passes! The surface was shiny as, but the swirls still remained.
to clear up using just compound alone on a paints surface is not going to flatten it no matter how or where you put the paint on the only way for a flat finish is to cut it with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper.
Followed buy a compound dont confuse compound with a polish either. A compound has a fine abrasive in it its only to burnish the paint back up to a shine, to remove scratches polish then a glaze (or swirl remover)
Originally Posted by aaronng
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