[EURO] DC Sports 4-2-1 Headers [56K Warning]

[hnm738]

but i dont want ppl buying it without researching if it would work or not...i dont want to be held responsible and wasting your money...its just something i read

[hnm738]

this is just part of the discusion

"The Y-pipe (or downpipe) is on, and resulted in a good whack of extra torque between 5500 to 7500rpm.

But it was noisy in terms of hissing 'bees in a can' sound on throttle off between 3200 and 4000rpm. I wrapped the flex joints in header wrap, and that cleared up most of the hissing noise."

he did write a longer diy heat wrap to treat that noise but i forgot where it is

[EuroAccord13]

I have some high quality heatwrap.. I think I will try it..

Being mildsteel and ceramic coated, if there is any scratches on the coating, it will expose the mild steel and water and air will start doing it's job in rusting the mild steel.. The heat wrap absorbs water so I will have a closer inspection of the flex pipe before I wrap it up...

[hnm738]

reading about the heat wrap review...he mention that it should be wrapped really tightly no loose ends otherwise it would be effective

[EuroAccord13]

reading about the heat wrap review...he mention that it should be wrapped really tightly no loose ends otherwise it would be effective

Do you mean wrap tightly or it won't be effective?

[hnm738]

sorry bad wording.....if you wrap it tightly it will be more effective....so basicaly tighter the better

[PERTH_EURO]

sorry bad wording.....if you wrap it tightly it will be more effective....so basicaly tighter the better

****** insert childish laugh here ******

[EuroAccord13]

Contacted the seller I got the Headers off and he told me that it's normal as he said the TSX owners with the headers have whistling noise coming from their headers as well....

[EuroAccord13]

Digging up my old post...

I know Matell has it, who else? Today, I found out that the flex pipe on the Headers is rattling at a certain RPM irregardless of the car in motion or stationary.. BUT when the radiator fan comes on, the rattle disappears... But the moment the radiator fan goes off, the rattle is back again, any ideas????

I'm gonna try and find time tonight to jack the car and have an inspection... Hopefully it's just a loose screw somewhere and not something else....

[Tobster]

I don't have the headers and I don't know what RPM things are rattling (I assume its more or less at idle) but here are some thoughts:

At low RPMs, there's just enough exhaust flowing to move the pipes around -- kind of like a lumpy idle. As soon as the revs rise, things smooth out. When the fan kicks in the revs generally rise slightly.

Another thought: despite reaching "operating temperature", when things are at idle, the small amount of exhaust gas isn't as hot. I once read that mild steel headers expand and contract a lot more than stainless. When things are hot, the headers expand and it makes a tight fit. When they're a bit cooler, there might be just a tiny bit of movement.

Or: it's quite simply the natural interference headers are designed to make causing resonance which making the rattle at certain rpm. Temple of VTEC discussed the TODA header (http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-ar...&page_number=2):

With the lower back pressure and better tuned lengths of the Toda header, we also needed more cam advance. Advancing the intake cam allows for pressure waves from the exhaust to travel into the intake. At the right RPM range, this can assist the movement of the intake charge into the cylinder.

Air travels into and out of an engine not smoothly, but in pulses. Think of blowing across the top of a beer (or wine) bottle. You will hear a note cause by the vibration of a column of air inside the bottle. An intake is the same. For a given diameter and length of tube, there is a resonance frequency. Where this matches the RPM of the engine, you will find a torque hump and lean spot. When we switched to an Injen cold air intake, we found the resonance point to be around 4500-4700 RPM.

Or it could just be something loose...

Just chucking ideas out there!

[TypeG]

so the overall performance is good?

[Matell]

I didn't post this here, and forget to tell you!. Sorry!!!!!!http://tsx.acurazine.com/forums/show...hlight=failure

I haven't had my header on since. I've been using the OEM. I plan on getting the DC fixed with a larger section of flex pipe from a highly reputable exhaust place up here, for which I budgeting about $300. I should've just got the comptech...or waited and purchased the Mugen had I known it was coming.

I suggest you check your flex pipe ASAP. You should be able to do this without removing it from the car by pulling down on the pipe and shine a torch against one side of the pipe while you look for any light coming though the braided wrap. If you see light, swap it back to the OEM header and you might avoid the primary A/F sensor failing.

Besides the OEM has more driveable torque below 3200rpm...go above that and it's gutless.