How to change a Fuel Pump on a EG Civic (Can be applied to most other Honda's)

[tiksie]

Just thought I'd put a guide up for those that want to change their fuel pumps.

Reason for changing mine is because it was faulty.

Couple reasons for a faulty fuel pump:

• Long use of shit fuel.
• Allowing your tank to go below reserve (dry out your pump)
• Shitty connections
• Old age
• List goes on..

My situation seemed to be due to shit fuel as the fuel pump looks like it was replaced at one point, it definitely wasn't a genuine Honda pump.

SO; Here is a list of tools that are required:

1. Phillips head screwdriver
2. Flat head screwdriver
3. 10MM Socket (Plus 10mm spanner)
4. 17MM Socket
5. Needle Nose Pliers
6. Normal Pliers (Optional)
7. WD40 (Optional)
8. Rags! (This is a must)
9. Container (Optional if you want to drain your fuel)
10. Jerry Can (Optional if you want to drain your fuel)

You will obviously need a new fuel pump which will come with:

• Pump
• Filter
• Retaining Clip for filter
• 2 Clips
• 1 Piece of hose

STEP 1


Park your car somewhere level grounded so your car is flat. Not on a hill or a slope etc.


Step 2


Open your bonnet and go and disconnect both of your battery terminals. They say you only need to remove your ground cable, but I do both just to be super secure. It only takes a few seconds anyway.





If your using OEM terminals, than the loosening nuts should me 10MM.


Some people say to remove the Fuel pump relay and start the car to remove pressure, but changing heaps of pumps before, I've never had a situation where it was needed.. Removing the fuel cap and poking that metal plate inside for a few seconds is adequate enough.

Just make sure that you don't do this right after driving your car. Make sure it's cooled down enough where you can touch the valve cover and its room temperature, not hot.. Not warm..

My rule of thumb is if I can place my hand on the oil sump without scalding myself within 30-40 seconds, than the car is fine to work on.


Step 3


Open your hatch and remove your parcel tray if you have one:




Next you want to find the 10mm bolt that holds your rear seats down. It's only one bolt in the centre:





You'll need a 10mm spanner for this as a socket won't go in there as there isn't enough clearance.


After you've removed that, you want to go into the car.

Make sure you recline both of your front seats forward and slide them forward.. This will give you some clearance to work comfortably.


Here is what the seat looks like once removed:




Here are the hooks that you need to wiggle out:







Step 4



Once you have jiggled out your rear seats, you should be left with this:




You want to start to removing the 4 phillips head screws on the top to remove the cover.


Once you have removed them, you will be left with this:



If you can see, there is the electrical plug with the rubber boot over it. Pull that rubber boot back and just unplug it.



At this point, it's a good idea to start spraying the 10mm nuts with WD40 including the big 17MM nut on the fuel line:





Have a smoke while you're waiting for the WD40 to penetrate:






So about 5 to 10 minutes has passed and the WD40 should have penetrated them nuts by now.

IMPORTANT

Before removing the 10mm nuts on the pump cover, you should remove the 17MM bolt on the fuel return line. The reason for this is if you try to do this while the cover is loose, you will lose leverage on the bolt which would make it extremely hard to take off.

So go ahead and remove that bolt (MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LOSE THE WASHERS! THERE SHOULD BE 2 OF THEM!:




Get ready after removing the bolt and washer because fuel will start to drain out, so make sure you have a rag to catch it:



After that, just remove the clip from the other fuel line and pull the line off, again, just use a rag to catch any excess fuel.


You should be left with this:




To pull the fuel pump assembly out, you just literally need to pull up and spin it counter clockwise (Might be different for every car depending on fuel pump/filter design). But this part is pretty straight forward.


Here is a comparison:



Left is new.
Middle is an aftermarket replaced pump/filter using Shell 98
Right is an OEM factory (20 year old) filter and pump using BP95/98