FD/FN2/EP3 Wheel Setup Guide

[Perry]

Hey guys, would +35 offset fit on stock height ep3 without modification?

on stock height it will fit flush.

[RPS.13]

17x9 +38 fronts
17x8 +32 rears
ep3, dropped a fair biton tein type flex, guards rolled, rear camber kit

would i come across any problems with fitment?

What tyre sizes and camber are you planning on running?

Fronts you could probably get away with 235/45 or maybe even 245/40, depending on how much camber your at. Rears maybe 225/45 or 215/45 if the 225's are pushing it a bit. I was able to just tuck in 225/45 Advan A048, 17x7.5 +32's on the rear, with about -1.0 camber on the rear. Probably had maybe 3mm clearence to the guard lip inder full compression, maybe a few mm more.

The fronts you'll most likely have an issue with scrubbing at full lock. I had very light rubbing when I ran 245/40 A048's, 17x8 +38 on the fronts. It was only apparent when parking. On the track it was fine. The tyres tucked in fine at around -2.38 camber.

Hey guys, would +35 offset fit on stock height ep3 without modification?

Depends on what width.

9" +35 would poke out a bit at stock height and look a bit odd. 8" and 7" wide at that offset would be fine.

Again depends on what size tyre you plan on running. Anything from 205/45 to 225/45 will be fine.

[butterfingers]

What tyre sizes and camber are you planning on running?

Fronts you could probably get away with 235/45 or maybe even 245/40, depending on how much camber your at. Rears maybe 225/45 or 215/45 if the 225's are pushing it a bit. I was able to just tuck in 225/45 Advan A048, 17x7.5 +32's on the rear, with about -1.0 camber on the rear. Probably had maybe 3mm clearence to the guard lip inder full compression, maybe a few mm more.

The fronts you'll most likely have an issue with scrubbing at full lock. I had very light rubbing when I ran 245/40 A048's, 17x8 +38 on the fronts. It was only apparent when parking. On the track it was fine. The tyres tucked in fine at around -2.38 camber.



Depends on what width.

9" +35 would poke out a bit at stock height and look a bit odd. 8" and 7" wide at that offset would be fine.

Again depends on what size tyre you plan on running. Anything from 205/45 to 225/45 will be fine.

thanks man

no way that wide, the tyres will be 215/45

just wanted to know rougly the amount of front and rear camber i needed to dial in and if there was anything prerquisite clearance work needed

[RPS.13]

thanks man

no way that wide, the tyres will be 215/45

just wanted to know rougly the amount of front and rear camber i needed to dial in and if there was anything prerquisite clearance work needed

Ahh okay, 215/45's all round will be easy to work with then. I would dial in the camber to suit your driving. Normally I have max negative on the fronts and about -1.0 on the track. For street wheels I leave the front as is i.e. max negative and camber the rear to tuck in the wheel/tyres.

Only issues I see you might have is the length of your tie rods. As you introduce negative camber to the front. You may or may not run out of toe adjustments from your tie rods. Some EP's do, some don't. Also the previously mentioned scrubbing of the inner wheel well. Doing some quick math, you should be okay if your sticking to a 215/45.

Rear, with the width and offset plus tyre combo you stated you should be able to keep it close to 0 camber or even slightly negative if you wanted to.

[butterfingers]

Ahh okay, 215/45's all round will be easy to work with then. I would dial in the camber to suit your driving. Normally I have max negative on the fronts and about -1.0 on the track. For street wheels I leave the front as is i.e. max negative and camber the rear to tuck in the wheel/tyres.

Only issues I see you might have is the length of your tie rods. As you introduce negative camber to the front. You may or may not run out of toe adjustments from your tie rods. Some EP's do, some don't. Also the previously mentioned scrubbing of the inner wheel well. Doing some quick math, you should be okay if your sticking to a 215/45.

Rear, with the width and offset plus tyre combo you stated you should be able to keep it close to 0 camber or even slightly negative if you wanted to.

i have j's racing spl tie rods

id like some negative camber at the rear to give the illusion of tucking without going lower. im having trouble in westfields as it is

btw, would it be possible to dial in the camber with a slightly worn wheel bearing?
last time i had a service, they delayed the alignment till i could replace the bearings, but im wanting to get it done for now, and come back to replace the bearings later. did they do that to save labour or is it not possible to do alignment with a worn bearing?>

[RPS.13]

i have j's racing spl tie rods

id like some negative camber at the rear to give the illusion of tucking without going lower. im having trouble in westfields as it is

btw, would it be possible to dial in the camber with a slightly worn wheel bearing?
last time i had a service, they delayed the alignment till i could replace the bearings, but im wanting to get it done for now, and come back to replace the bearings later. did they do that to save labour or is it not possible to do alignment with a worn bearing?>

Cool j's tie rods, then you can go to town with the front camber adjustment without any worries. Awesome

Rear camber, I'd just set it until the tyre no longer scrubs. I normally just check it by eye and kind of draw an imaginary line as to where the tyre will travel upwards under compression. Drive check the clearence and adjust accordingly.

They probably didn't do it, just as a side of caution to cover themselves. Say if anything went wrong. Google: wheel bearing failure danger, that should answer your question.

You could get it aligned and change the wheel bearing later. But obviously don't wait too long to do it.

Whilst your at it, you could look into changing your LCA bushes and roll center adjusters. Whilst the hub is out.

[butterfingers]

Cool j's tie rods, then you can go to town with the front camber adjustment without any worries. Awesome

Rear camber, I'd just set it until the tyre no longer scrubs. I normally just check it by eye and kind of draw an imaginary line as to where the tyre will travel upwards under compression. Drive check the clearence and adjust accordingly.

They probably didn't do it, just as a side of caution to cover themselves. Say if anything went wrong. Google: wheel bearing failure danger, that should answer your question.

You could get it aligned and change the wheel bearing later. But obviously don't wait too long to do it.

Whilst your at it, you could look into changing your LCA bushes and roll center adjusters. Whilst the hub is out.

thas exactly what i was thinking, saves the extra labour costs of going back repeatedly.

still trying to source a ep3 wheel hub, the bushes i cant sort out easily.

i read that the audm dc5r ones are a straight fit?

good info champ thanks heaps