New rims, your experience with these brands - wheel bore/spigot size?

[T-Bone]

Hey guys, I am currently looking at getting a new set of rims 15x7+25 (4x100) and wrapping them in 205/50/15 tyres. I have an EK hatch and I just wanted to know if these rims should fit without much poke, will they sit flush with the guard/slightly in? Does anyone also know what wheel bore size will fit up perfectly to the spigot on the wheel hub (I think it's 57 - can anyone clarify?) as I would like my purchase to be hubcentric.

Has anyone used brands such as TRMotorsports, 949 or XXR? My EK is my DD, but I want to take it to the track next year just for some fun and really get a good understanding of how she handles.

Cheers.

[mattsrea]

15x7 et 25 wrapped in 205/50s will require guard rolling if you don't want to scrub (if you are low of course) i have that setup on mine at the moment and so far only rolled the rear guards because the front seem ok for now. So to answer your question, it will poke out abit but not (depending on camber/natural camber etc etc.)

I'm rolling on natural camber at the moment and all of them sit flush!

And about the brands dunno much about them except for XXR which are ok i guess?

[T-Bone]

15x7 et 25 wrapped in 205/50s will require guard rolling if you don't want to scrub (if you are low of course) i have that setup on mine at the moment and so far only rolled the rear guards because the front seem ok for now. So to answer your question, it will poke out abit but not (depending on camber/natural camber etc etc.)

I'm rolling on natural camber at the moment and all of them sit flush!

And about the brands dunno much about them except for XXR which are ok i guess?

Cheers for the feedback mattsrea and Merry Christmas by the way. I'm not lowered at the moment, but plan on being in the future. What gap size do you have between your tyres and fender? approx 2 fingers? Do you know much about rims and whether they should be hubcentric? I'm pretty sure my EK's hub centre/spigot size is 56.1 where as one of the rims I'm looking at has a wheel bore size of 57.1. This means for them to be hubcentric I would need a 0.5mm spigot ring as 0.5mm at the top of the spigot (hub centre) + 0.5mm at the bottom of the spigot (hub centre) equals the 1mm difference - hopefully that makes sense. However, I don't believe they make 0.5mm spigot rings and am worried that it will put too much strain on the lugs. I don't want to have the chance of them buckling or even snapping especially when I take it to the track next year.

[mattsrea]

Cheers for the feedback mattsrea and Merry Christmas by the way. I'm not lowered at the moment, but plan on being in the future. What gap size do you have between your tyres and fender? approx 2 fingers? Do you know much about rims and whether they should be hubcentric? I'm pretty sure my EK's hub centre/spigot size is 56.1 where as one of the rims I'm looking at has a wheel bore size of 57.1. This means for them to be hubcentric I would need a 0.5mm spigot ring as 0.5mm at the top of the spigot (hub centre) + 0.5mm at the bottom of the spigot (hub centre) equals the 1mm difference - hopefully that makes sense. However, I don't believe they make 0.5mm spigot rings and am worried that it will put too much strain on the lugs. I don't want to have the chance of them buckling or even snapping especially when I take it to the track next year.

No worries bud merry christmas to you too. Well talking gap size i am 1 finger gap on the rears and none at the front. Snce the rears are rolled no scrub occurs where as the front only scrubs when i do hard corners so if you take it to tracks it should prob go with a minor guard roll or if you can get your hands on some stiff coilovers.

And honestly i don't know much about the hubcentric and all perhaps somebody else couold shed some light on this.

[fillit]

Cheers for the feedback mattsrea and Merry Christmas by the way. I'm not lowered at the moment, but plan on being in the future. What gap size do you have between your tyres and fender? approx 2 fingers? Do you know much about rims and whether they should be hubcentric? I'm pretty sure my EK's hub centre/spigot size is 56.1 where as one of the rims I'm looking at has a wheel bore size of 57.1. This means for them to be hubcentric I would need a 0.5mm spigot ring as 0.5mm at the top of the spigot (hub centre) + 0.5mm at the bottom of the spigot (hub centre) equals the 1mm difference - hopefully that makes sense. However, I don't believe they make 0.5mm spigot rings and am worried that it will put too much strain on the lugs. I don't want to have the chance of them buckling or even snapping especially when I take it to the track next year.

If it's a 1mm gap I wouldn't be worried about hubcentric rings, chances are there's probably a bit of corrosion on the hub and it will fit snug or there is some variation with the manufacturing/paint etc. It's hard to say until you've mounted it.

I track my car and the rims don't sit flush with the hub, I haven't had any issues with studs and haven't yet heard of any horror stories. Besides if you are serious about tracking you would want to invest into extended studs anyway

[T-Bone]

No worries bud merry christmas to you too. Well talking gap size i am 1 finger gap on the rears and none at the front. Snce the rears are rolled no scrub occurs where as the front only scrubs when i do hard corners so if you take it to tracks it should prob go with a minor guard roll or if you can get your hands on some stiff coilovers.

And honestly i don't know much about the hubcentric and all perhaps somebody else couold shed some light on this.

Cheers mate, thanks again for your input

If it's a 1mm gap I wouldn't be worried about hubcentric rings, chances are there's probably a bit of corrosion on the hub and it will fit snug or there is some variation with the manufacturing/paint etc. It's hard to say until you've mounted it.

I track my car and the rims don't sit flush with the hub, I haven't had any issues with studs and haven't yet heard of any horror stories. Besides if you are serious about tracking you would want to invest into extended studs anyway

That's good to hear, thanks for the info fillit. I always thought extended studs were just so you could fit spacers (which are illegal in NSW). But after doing a quick search they seem to be stronger then OEM studs? I also read that ARP make quite good extended studs - are they the brand you use or would recommend?

Would you say that my OEM studs should be fine to handle any 'extra' strain/stress due to the wheels not being hubcentric as my car is pretty much stock performance wise and I won't be taking it to the track often. I am just very keen to go once next year - heard it's a really good experience and you get to understand how your car handles alot more.

Thanks again for your help mate

[fillit]

Cheers mate, thanks again for your input



That's good to hear, thanks for the info fillit. I always thought extended studs were just so you could fit spacers (which are illegal in NSW). But after doing a quick search they seem to be stronger then OEM studs? I also read that ARP make quite good extended studs - are they the brand you use or would recommend?

Would you say that my OEM studs should be fine to handle any 'extra' strain/stress due to the wheels not being hubcentric as my car is pretty much stock performance wise and I won't be taking it to the track often. I am just very keen to go once next year - heard it's a really good experience and you get to understand how your car handles alot more.

Thanks again for your help mate

OEM studs would be fine for your DD and occasional track day, however if you get addicted and continually participate than extended studs are probably the go.

Yep, I was going to direct you to MRP (Manon Racing Products) lots of the toyota boys use them, it seems they stock ARP studs and bolts. They are based in NZ, however you will need to have them imported regardless of where you choose to purchase them. My friend was quoted a set of extended studs for 80NZD + shipping, so this option may work out cheaper.

Here is their website if you want to shoot them an email. --> http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/

You can install yourself if you have a press, however I would say get it done at a workshop shouldn't be much more than $160 - $200 (my mate had his done for $160) and it's a fairly straight forward job.

Keep in mind you will need to use open ended lug nuts, so if you are purchasing a new set put it into consideration otherwise you may be wasting your money.

The good thing about having extended studs too is that you can run hubcentric slip on spacers, just make sure you find one which sits flush with the bore, not saying it's legal, but it's hell of a lot safer than having them on the OEM studs.

[T-Bone]

OEM studs would be fine for your DD and occasional track day, however if you get addicted and continually participate than extended studs are probably the go.

Yep, I was going to direct you to MRP (Manon Racing Products) lots of the toyota boys use them, it seems they stock ARP studs and bolts. They are based in NZ, however you will need to have them imported regardless of where you choose to purchase them. My friend was quoted a set of extended studs for 80NZD + shipping, so this option may work out cheaper.

Here is their website if you want to shoot them an email. --> http://www.mrpltd.co.nz/

You can install yourself if you have a press, however I would say get it done at a workshop shouldn't be much more than $160 - $200 (my mate had his done for $160) and it's a fairly straight forward job.

Keep in mind you will need to use open ended lug nuts, so if you are purchasing a new set put it into consideration otherwise you may be wasting your money.

The good thing about having extended studs too is that you can run hubcentric slip on spacers, just make sure you find one which sits flush with the bore, not saying it's legal, but it's hell of a lot safer than having them on the OEM studs.

Thanks so much mate for all the info! Very informative, I may have to check out the website soon, very interested in this idea, particularly since they are worthwhile. +1 for you man, thanks again fillit. Take care

[.Dave]

id go 949 racing 6uls if you can get the old style! but yes those should fit with very few dramas

[EKVTIR-T]

Since you only want 15x7,try and get some genuine wheels and avoid those taiwan xxr junk and 6ul etc.

15x7 used jdm wheels wont cost a fortune so do a bit of hunting and get genuine quality

[Apu]

Personally, I'd go for a new set of "recognized brand" (not necessarily brand-name) wheels over a set of used wheels with an unknown history.

[T-Bone]

id go 949 racing 6uls if you can get the old style! but yes those should fit with very few dramas

What do you mean by the 'old style' Dave? I've read that gen I, II and III all look the same yet are stronger each generation. Gen I was also gravity cast where as gen II and III are low pressure cast - please correct me if I'm wrong. So wouldn't it be better to go for the gen III's if I were to get them?

Since you only want 15x7,try and get some genuine wheels and avoid those taiwan xxr junk and 6ul etc.

15x7 used jdm wheels wont cost a fortune so do a bit of hunting and get genuine quality

Cheers for the input EKVTIR, I would have to agree with Apu though, in terms of buying a new set compared to a used set with unknown history. There are also many people who use TRM C1 wheels (they're the ones I'm leaning towards at the moment) especially in the US for autocross. People seem to rave about them and I have not read any horror stories yet.

The TRM C1 wheels also come with a 2 year warranty. I don't think using brands like TRM, 949 or XXR should be a big deal since it's on my DD and I don't plan on tracking her much at all. By the way nice Seinfeld reference