Odyssey RB3 mod problem

[ogen]

Hi everyone
I have a 2010 Odyssey RB3 for my family car, as a result to compare with a civic e.g., it just like a boat driving on a road.
Now i'm looking for some replacement part, however it seems not easy to find or expressive
Can i get some idea and help for the part?
1. Intake filter (try to get some more house power and response)
2. better brake pad (brake are so bad in RB3, however i can't afford a brake kit)
3. exhaust twin tip (just want to look better)

Thanks for everyone

[eren]

lol srs>? .

supercharge it , pick up kids from soccer practice faster aye







srs tho . intake filter wont do much , exhaust a tiny bit and its family car so stock for that quite comfortable ride , uppgrade brakes !yes!

[Vvvtec]

for the muffler, xforce > mugen

[eren]

for the muffler, xforce > mugen

bahahaha
inb4whatdidyoudotoyourektodaythreadfoyte

[evolution]

Hi everyone
I have a 2010 Odyssey RB3 for my family car, as a result to compare with a civic e.g., it just like a boat driving on a road.
Now i'm looking for some replacement part, however it seems not easy to find or expressive
Can i get some idea and help for the part?
1. Intake filter (try to get some more house power and response)
2. better brake pad (brake are so bad in RB3, however i can't afford a brake kit)
3. exhaust twin tip (just want to look better)

Thanks for everyone

My 2 cents

1) Changing the intake will not do much from performance. I would just leave it. To extract more power, you will have to spend a bit
2) Yes the Odyssey brakes are pretty under powered. Suggest changing the brake lines to braided stainless steel ones. The will not improve the actual braking, but it will remove the spongy feeling. Big brake kit upgrade would be the best, but if budget is your main concern I suggest changing the rotors to slotted ones with better pads. Problem will be that brake dust will be increased. You can try RDA for budget, Mugen if feeling rich.
3) To get twin tip, you will have to cut the oem exhaust and weld on new mufflers. The muffler tips are just to short to put on a twin tip. An exhaust shop will be able to advise

[ogen]

My 2 cents

1) Changing the intake will not do much from performance. I would just leave it. To extract more power, you will have to spend a bit
2) Yes the Odyssey brakes are pretty under powered. Suggest changing the brake lines to braided stainless steel ones. The will not improve the actual braking, but it will remove the spongy feeling. Big brake kit upgrade would be the best, but if budget is your main concern I suggest changing the rotors to slotted ones with better pads. Problem will be that brake dust will be increased. You can try RDA for budget, Mugen if feeling rich.
3) To get twin tip, you will have to cut the oem exhaust and weld on new mufflers. The muffler tips are just to short to put on a twin tip. An exhaust shop will be able to advise

Thanks evolution and other members
1,3 it just for fun, so i really concern for the brake which upgrade to a RDA pad and rotor, i will try to ask my mechanic let see how much for the brake pad upgrade.
At least i can safety stop my car

[SQXPRT]

Rotors and pads should be only a few hundred $$ for the set. Try ABS Brakes - they can do good prices on fitting as well.

The intake - don't bother.

I just got new coil over fitted to my MY13, and it's a completely different car - gear changes smoother and steering/braking seems more responsive.

[Rage King]

Rotors and pads should be only a few hundred $$ for the set. Try ABS Brakes - they can do good prices on fitting as well.

The intake - don't bother.

I just got new coil over fitted to my MY13, and it's a completely different car - gear changes smoother and steering/braking seems more responsive.

i got T3 wiper slot DBA rotors and made a HELL of a difference in the stopping and brake pedal feel. (my pads are DS2500).

Intake - ive got the K&N panel and that too made a difference - much responsive and provided a noticeable torque/power gains.

havent fitted my HKS coilovers yet, but i have to question your coilover experience (curiosity killed the cat )

gear changes smoother and steering/braking seems more responsive.

Installing a coilover / lowering your suspension does not "make" your gear changes smoother or makes your braking responsive.

this is purely due to the vehicle center of gravity (due to lowering and stiffer spring rates and damper settings) - Therefore when braking - this will actually increase the time /distance for your car to actually stop - due to the forced weight of the car being lowered (and obviously speed) which causes extra weight to the front wheels.

The steering will feel heavier (again due to the lowered vehicle) but you will gain better handling/ feel when cornering - BUT you may also experience extra sway - depending on how hard/soft your dampering is and other suspension parts or setup (RSB, endlinks camber, strut braces etc)

the rule of thumb is when you lower your vehicle - you should always take into consideration other suspension parts that will suit your driving style and feel safer on the roads, circuit etc.

Brake upgrades - Rotors, Pads, calipers, brake lines etc
Other suspension parts - F/RSB's, bushings, endlinks, camber kits, strut/pillar braces etc.
Tyres - wet/dry grip conditions?

[SQXPRT]

i got T3 wiper slot DBA rotors and made a HELL of a difference in the stopping and brake pedal feel. (my pads are DS2500).

Intake - ive got the K&N panel and that too made a difference - much responsive and provided a noticeable torque/power gains.

Nice, I thought maybe the inlet wouldn't do much uless you give the exhaust some more breathing space first..

havent fitted my HKS coilovers yet, but i have to question your coilover experience (curiosity killed the cat )

Installing a coilover / lowering your suspension does not "make" your gear changes smoother or makes your braking responsive.

this is purely due to the vehicle center of gravity (due to lowering and stiffer spring rates and damper settings) - Therefore when braking - this will actually increase the time /distance for your car to actually stop - due to the forced weight of the car being lowered (and obviously speed) which causes extra weight to the front wheels.

The steering will feel heavier (again due to the lowered vehicle) but you will gain better handling/ feel when cornering - BUT you may also experience extra sway - depending on how hard/soft your dampering is and other suspension parts or setup (RSB, endlinks camber, strut braces etc)

the rule of thumb is when you lower your vehicle - you should always take into consideration other suspension parts that will suit your driving style and feel safer on the roads, circuit etc.

Brake upgrades - Rotors, Pads, calipers, brake lines etc
Other suspension parts - F/RSB's, bushings, endlinks, camber kits, strut/pillar braces etc.
Tyres - wet/dry grip conditions?

I found that the stiffer suspension removed the "lunging" of the car on gear shifts, it sits flatter and firmer, so the shifts seem to lose less momentum.

Maybe the RB3/MY13 brakes are better than earlier ones - as I have no problem with them at all - nice feel and good positive action... They're not racing brakes, but sure better than a lot of new cars I have driven.
Steering feels the same.

Rear sway bar and adjustable arms ordered (Cusco) to tidy up the boating (which was improved by the coilovers, but not solved completely), and the now -3.0 camber..

Still pondering the Exhaust

[evolution]

Nice, I thought maybe the inlet wouldn't do much uless you give the exhaust some more breathing space first..



I found that the stiffer suspension removed the "lunging" of the car on gear shifts, it sits flatter and firmer, so the shifts seem to lose less momentum.

Maybe the RB3/MY13 brakes are better than earlier ones - as I have no problem with them at all - nice feel and good positive action... They're not racing brakes, but sure better than a lot of new cars I have driven.
Steering feels the same.

Rear sway bar and adjustable arms ordered (Cusco) to tidy up the boating (which was improved by the coilovers, but not solved completely), and the now +3.0 camber..

Still pondering the Exhaust

+3.0 camber? That I have to see ;P Should be -3.0 camber

Exhaust by itself doesn't do much for power, in fact I think mine lost some low end torque. Also keep in mind, the exhaust systems for the Odyssey is a full cat back which means >$1.5k for a brand new JDM brand.

[SQXPRT]

hhahaha typo, should be -3 deg.
teach me to use the numpad

headers, cat and all.. more than 1.5k yes