brake recomendations

[connorling]

Msg Baby Face
He has a b16 in an eg5 and has recently done a full brake swap and booster and prop lines from an ITR
I know i helped him :P
There's a few mods you'll need to do

Adam, it wasnt a full ITR upgrade.
his was a vtir which is 262mm, itr is 282mm.

[DC2-PWR]

RDA arnt good, DBA all the way
For brake pads id run ferodo DS2500
Brake fluid MOTUL RBF 600
And lines im using goodridge

Nothing wrong with RDA. The importance is the pad. I found my DS2500 having a "spongy" feel after 3 laps on a 2km race circuit..

I am using Hawk dtc 60. Not cheap, but I am so satisfied with it. The DS2500 I'd leave for a street car and maybe a beginner track car. (to get the feel on where to brake). Then when you move on in experience and find the limits of the pads, you can think about upgrading.

jdmyard run rda rotors on there track k powered civics and dba are double the price i doubt they would last twice as long as long as you have a cool lap if tracking rdas are fine.
yer the ferodos are good but price em up...
fluid year fine, ill stick with castrol though.
and yep goodridge lines are my prefrence too but hel lines are good too.
im not looking for a list of popular products

im really looking for info on the products i have listed. if you have experiance with them please chime in

Yup Yonas ran his RDA on the EG civic last year. I bought the rotors off him 2nd hand, and I still have it, and I still have enough meat on it for more track days. He keeps telling me "still have the RDAs?" and has a big "LOL" when I say yes. Really impressive for something cheap. Been nearly through 6 track days near 200+ laps + whatever Yonas did.

Nice healthy fluid, caliper and good compound pads is a good start. I'd swear that the braided lines did good, it definitely made the feel better. Worth the dollar

262mm VTi-R setup meaning Calipers + Rotors yeah?

EBC Greenstuff 2000 is rated at:
Temp - 600°C [Doesn't say if it works from 0°C]
Nominal Friction Coefficient - 0.55μ

I'd be fairly careful cause that Coefficient means its VERY aggressive... Its more aggressive than my MX72s which I needed to get Dixcel HS/FS [Heat-Treated + Slotted [HS], Sper Taikyu spec material, Heat-Treated + Slotted] rotors to withstand the MX72s.

I had custom Goodridge lines made up at Race Brakes Sydney, I can attest to the quality of Goodridge, pushed them hard in my 111, good constant feel.

Personally with your setup, I'd go something similar to babybashjnr's setup, ITR 98' Calipers and Rotor size if possible as it will allow for your setup to be more durable/withstand more heat =)

EDIT: Just read your edit, I can't find specs for the Yellowstuff so can't comment man

+1

Dave I'd suggest talking to the guys who sell the products. I bought my brake parts from BYP and JDMyard. They can squeeze in the time helping to find out what you need best. BYP have real good pad options that I couldnt find anywhere in QLD and JDMyard can get me rotors to suit my custom setup.

Good luck

[Daveho1]

thanks dc2-pwr, ill never use byp for anything though ive had a bad experiance with them that resulted in me having to pay alot of money for something they should have fixed but im not really one for the name n shame on a public forum if u wanna know about that pm me.
im pritty set on the following;
262mm swap with vtir master, booster and 4040 prop.
rda sloted and dimpled rotor (i can get a full set for 320 shipped, cmon worth a shot)
goodridge lines.
but as when i started im still at a loss for the pads. i may just have a chat to the brake shop that dose my macheining and see what they recomend hmmm or i may just give the greenstuf a go as ive heard they are dusty but other then that awsome and given the state of my current brakes im sure it wil be sufficiant

[Daveho1]

basicly what im really asking is in your guys experiance what pads pair well with the rda rotors for spirited driving? honestly the only track work im even looking ad doing in the future may be the canberra hill climb which runs about 1 min so the hardest work the set up will get is the mountan passes

Edit: if you havent used rda rotors then i dont need your input atm, im looking for experiance with the products listed, not random unfounded opinions.
Edit: the acre superfighters look pritty good by the stats., anyone use em?

[Jasemas]

Adam, it wasnt a full ITR upgrade.
his was a vtir which is 262mm, itr is 282mm.

Yes, yes thanks man :P
You know what i mean haha

[DreadAngel]

Nothing wrong with RDA. The importance is the pad. I found my DS2500 having a "spongy" feel after 3 laps on a 2km race circuit..

I am using Hawk dtc 60. Not cheap, but I am so satisfied with it. The DS2500 I'd leave for a street car and maybe a beginner track car. (to get the feel on where to brake). Then when you move on in experience and find the limits of the pads, you can think about upgrading.

The DS2500 off my head only has a temperature rating of ~550°C but has quite a high Coefficent [~0.55μ] which means that while it will generate great braking power, it won't last long and starts fading as it goes past its heat range. For the average track car, try to get at least pads that will last up to ~650°C and 0.45μ+ [@ maximum] [Heavier cars need higher temps and co-efficient], ensure your brake fluid can also handle higher temps, braided lines to eliminate the rubber hose expansion issue and you'll find that you can get more laps out there

[.Dave]

i had rda slotted and greenstuff with standard 242mm brakes on my eg and have done 3 trackdays with them and they are still fine, pads are getting low, but they worked pretty well, after a lot of hard braking it started to sponge up and fade, but i guess it depends what you want the car for...

ive got a 262mm vtir caliper and hub/rotor etc set up again with braided lines to go in too so im in the same boat.. using rda slotteds again (never had a problem so i think youll be fine) and greenstuff again, it works fine from cold and they hold up fairly well

the guy at the brake shop said qfm a1rm are good, similar to redstuff, so need a heat up, but very cheap
a few other guys i know with mirages have used them and said they were shit
and a couple with silvias think they work great...

so very mixed opinions, but the greenstuff is good, and not really harsh for daily driving

[DC2-PWR]

262mm swap with vtir master, booster and 4040 prop.
rda sloted and dimpled rotor (i can get a full set for 320 shipped, cmon worth a shot)
goodridge lines.
but as when i started im still at a loss for the pads. i may just have a chat to the brake shop that dose my macheining and see what they recomend hmmm or i may just give the greenstuf a go as ive heard they are dusty but other then that awsome and given the state of my current brakes im sure it wil be sufficiant

basicly what im really asking is in your guys experiance what pads pair well with the rda rotors for spirited driving? honestly the only track work im even looking ad doing in the future may be the canberra hill climb which runs about 1 min so the hardest work the set up will get is the mountan passes

Edit: if you havent used rda rotors then i dont need your input atm, im looking for experiance with the products listed, not random unfounded opinions.
Edit: the acre superfighters look pritty good by the stats., anyone use em?

Great that you have figured what you want. I have no problems helping/sharing when I did my search and experience on this same matter.

I wouldn't sink in asking for advice because there is already so much information out there already. If you believe in a certain pad then go for it, experience it first go and address how you want to go from there. That's my opinion so you can disregard it /not relevant.

The DS2500 off my head only has a temperature rating of ~550°C but has quite a high Coefficent [~0.55μ] which means that while it will generate great braking power, it won't last long and starts fading as it goes past its heat range. For the average track car, try to get at least pads that will last up to ~650°C and 0.45μ+ [@ maximum] [Heavier cars need higher temps and co-efficient], ensure your brake fluid can also handle higher temps, braided lines to eliminate the rubber hose expansion issue and you'll find that you can get more laps out there

Thanks for the further info. I should've stated the car already had braided lines, 310degree fluid, brake duct, and other reinforcement. But when you start 'racing' the parts will effectively tell you a different story than it's facts/figures. Thus feeling and telling the difference by comparing with other brake pads with realistic comments/evidence. It's a completely different story when you're comparing with online notes and doing real circuit racing (been there done that). ***different cars, different parts, different way of testing and comparing facts/figures vs realistic results***

I'd suggest the DS2500 as a street and beginner level track pad (great to get the feel of braking when first time circuit racing). When you gather experience you will then find the limits of the certain pad and would want to upgrade (which I did).

i had rda slotted and greenstuff with standard 242mm brakes on my eg and have done 3 trackdays with them and they are still fine, pads are getting low, but they worked pretty well, after a lot of hard braking it started to sponge up and fade, but i guess it depends what you want the car for...

ive got a 262mm vtir caliper and hub/rotor etc set up again with braided lines to go in too so im in the same boat.. using rda slotteds again (never had a problem so i think youll be fine) and greenstuff again, it works fine from cold and they hold up fairly well

the guy at the brake shop said qfm a1rm are good, similar to redstuff, so need a heat up, but very cheap
a few other guys i know with mirages have used them and said they were shit
and a couple with silvias think they work great...

so very mixed opinions, but the greenstuff is good, and not really harsh for daily driving

+1

Like mentioned, rotor + good pad + braided lines + fresh high temp brake oil is a great start for beginners to get the feel.

[DreadAngel]

Thanks for the further info. I should've stated the car already had braided lines, 310degree fluid, brake duct, and other reinforcement. But when you start 'racing' the parts will effectively tell you a different story than it's facts/figures. Thus feeling and telling the difference by comparing with other brake pads with realistic comments/evidence. It's a completely different story when you're comparing with online notes and doing real circuit racing (been there done that). ***different cars, different parts, different way of testing and comparing facts/figures vs realistic results***

Yup, this is from me comparing my experience with the DS2500 against the Endless MX72s =) So I can use both experience and spec to compare the two hehe =)

All good man

[Daveho1]

thanks for all your input guys, i have a pritty clear idea of what im lookign for now, i loke most i suspect had gone lookingto deep into fiction coefficiancy or effective heat ranges so massive thanks.

[Daveho1]

ill let you know what i end up with and let you know how it all goes

[DC2-PWR]

Yup, this is from me comparing my experience with the DS2500 against the Endless MX72s =) So I can use both experience and spec to compare the two hehe =)

All good man

Great stuff I've only heard the best results from endless parts.

thanks for all your input guys, i have a pritty clear idea of what im lookign for now, i loke most i suspect had gone lookingto deep into fiction coefficiancy or effective heat ranges so massive thanks.

ill let you know what i end up with and let you know how it all goes

No worries Dave I'm really keen to see how you go, we all have to start somewhere hey!

Good luck