brake recomendations

[Daveho1]

yeah i cant wait to have this all done and just enjoy the civic for a while. i have had it up on stands almost every weekend for the past 8 months so it will be good to just drive for a while.

[MassiEk4]

hopefully I am not repeating what another member has mentioned.

Why not do a ITR caliper with 282 mini rotor swap?
All you need is 262 knuckles, ITR (crv, 5-stud prelude, accord etc) calipers and 2007 mini cooper base rotors (4x100 282mm). I have done this before with great results, I am doing it on my current build and on every future build.

I am also working on a bigger brake upgrade for the rears to match the 282mm fronts using oem honda parts, it is bigger than the dc2 VTIR rear setup and cheaper than and ITR 5-stud conversion. Will make a How-to in the DIY section, soon.

[Daveho1]

Because i dont want to, honestly im gonna be using a 1" master anyway, so i have left that option open for later on down the track but in my situation i doubt the extra 20mm will be needed and it would just be added rotational mass that dosnt need to be there. I understand where ur coming from though.

[MassiEk4]

Because i dont want to, honestly im gonna be using a 1" master anyway, so i have left that option open for later on down the track but in my situation i doubt the extra 20mm will be needed and it would just be added rotational mass that dosnt need to be there. I understand where ur coming from though.

From my understanding, 1inch master cylinder requires less effort/force by your foot and produces the same amount of clamping force onto the rotor as a smaller master cylinder (which requires greater peddle force).
Actually that extra 20mm x the circumference of the rotor has more surface area to help with brake-fade as well as bigger calipers and rotational of mass further away from the center also aids in stopping power. Sure you there is a little more rotational mass but it is offset 20mm and almost negligible/you will not notice it.

Please don't take what I have said the wrong way; all I am do is express my opinion and understanding to help you. At the end of the day it is your choice.

[VTURBO]

^^ easy diy and cheap .. been there done that and works great currently looking for nsx or legend 2pot

[Daveho1]

Dont get me wrong i uderstand how breaks but for my build its not needed. I find it frustrating when i say " guys i need your experiance with te following parts" and most just say "just get type r". If i was going for ultimate stopping force i would but the set up i have listed is set in stone what i dont have is experiance with various pads and rotors. Im still keen to hear your experiances so keep em coming.

[DC2-PWR]

Nothing wrong with 262 setup boys. I know a fair few people that use the 262 setup and get great results with good rotor and pad combo. I use the the ITR setup also, so definitely I'm not being biased.

[Daveho1]

^^^^ my point exactly, anyway have any of you guys used any QFM pads? I can get a set locally so i may give em a go based on what i have heard about em

[MassiEk4]

Dont get me wrong i uderstand how breaks but for my build its not needed. I find it frustrating when i say " guys i need your experiance with te following parts" and most just say "just get type r". If i was going for ultimate stopping force i would but the set up i have listed is set in stone what i dont have is experiance with various pads and rotors. Im still keen to hear your experiances so keep em coming.

Fair enough, just helping you get the best performance for the least amount of money.

Here are my experiences with the parts you mentioned:

-I used EBC yellows. They are nice, for a race pad they have virtually no noise; but the dust really got on my nerves (no need for' em on a street car).
-I used EBC reds. They surprisingly had good bite cold-hot, no noise and very low dust, and it holds up occasional track days. (I am using these on my current build)
-Brake lines, Goodridge, HEL they are all good. I personally prefer the cheapest well known brand that I can find.
-As for rotors, I just run plain OE replacement (282mm) and they worked great with the both kinds of EBC pads. Not sure how the 262mm plain rotors compare in terms of brake-fade, might have to invest in the more expensive 262mm rotors (that is why I was saying to go 282mm, good performance for low cost/oe rotors).

Hope that helps

[Daveho1]

See its not the least amount of money cause i have 262 rotors calipers etc i dont have 282.
Buying more stuff dosnt save me money.
Im know the type r are bigger and beter and blah blah but im taking good deals where i can get them,
If it turns out this setup isnt suitable well ill sell off what i can and try somethong elce but untill then lets keep on topic. I know where your coming from though if i used the itr setup i would also have a better choice of pads and there would be abit more margin for error as far as pad selection goes as a larger rotor is just a bigger heat sink but im trying to go as light as possable so adding aditional rotating mass regardless if its only abit is something id rather avoid if i can make my smaller set up work. Know what i mean?