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14-05-2013 10:42 PM
#14881
So I took the car back to the exhaust shop today, they couldn't find anything where the exhaust could knock nor any idea what on earth that sound is. My next guess will be having the heat shields removed to see if it stops. The weather is getting crappier here and driving around in it today was driving me mental!
With regards to the starter motor noise, mine sometimes when cold start makes the noise you would get if you over start your car (try to start when already on). I have figured that it could be from either holding the key a fraction too long or too short, but too shorter time does not make sense...
Has anyone any other ideas what that bastard of a noise could be? I am at lost ends here and it sounds much worse than in the video.
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14-05-2013 10:44 PM
#14882
Mine had just under that many kms when I bought it but it is a honda and will go forever if well maintained, look at the DC2's for instance, they are still fetching good money even with high 200s on the clock. I think 15k would be a good price, little on the cheap side depending on the condition.
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Hey guys, so i've been tossing up between the FN2 and EP3. only thing i like more about the fn2 is interior (seats and cluster), but i can live with the ep3 and also prefer the double din slot.
just wondering if anyone knows anything about this ep3 in melb, had B16TYM plates on it for a while. im going to have a look at it tmr. and considering the high kms, what do you think is a reasonable price?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ite-EP3-Type-R
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14-05-2013 10:49 PM
#14883
Anything I should look out for on my own in particular? afaik only check mounts and steering rack for creaks. If everything goes well and we come to terms on a price, ill have a workshop do a thorough inspection
theres no service history or receipts on the car either, so i cant be sure its been looked after
KEEP IT VIET | KEEP IT JDM FaLL iN LoVe WheN YoU aRe ReAdY, NoT WhEN YoU ARe LOnEly
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14-05-2013 10:52 PM
#14884
If you take it for a test drive and floor it, make sure from gear 1 to 2 is smooth.
My car seems to be a bit stiff compared to my mates ep3. Not sure what the problem is, it's bearable but I guess faster gear 1 to 2 is better.
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14-05-2013 10:55 PM
#14885
I got told to check the side skirts also, apparently they are expensive as if they are cracked etc. As with any import check for rust in the usual places including underneath (also to see if any oil marks). I also was advised to listen to any rear wheel noises, i.e. if bearings are going.
As above the gearbox should be smooth between gears, personally mine is a bit notchy but for what I paid I am not complaining.
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14-05-2013 11:34 PM
#14886
One quick check you can do is take a measuring tape or string and measure from one centercap to the other on the same side.
And then do so to the other side the same way and it should be the same or very close. If not the car might have been crashed or something similar.
in regards to price.
I've bought one EP3 with 180,000kms lol the most i've ever heard of. for $12,000 imo it was a bargain and it was still running smoothly.
Then it was in a car accident and got more money then i paid for it so i bought one with 87,000 kms for 15.5k luckily.
I was tossing up between the one i bought and this one http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/port-...ur-/1017946849
and i think it's still for sale now.
The only reason i didn't buy the black one is because it hadn't landed yet. and also the one i bought was more value for money! hope that helps a little!
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Anything I should look out for on my own in particular? afaik only check mounts and steering rack for creaks. If everything goes well and we come to terms on a price, ill have a workshop do a thorough inspection
theres no service history or receipts on the car either, so i cant be sure its been looked after
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14-05-2013 11:36 PM
#14887
ohh also the ep3 in the ad i gave you looks like it has a mugen twinloop which is worthh monneyyss
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15-05-2013 12:29 AM
#14888
yeah seen that black one, very nicely priced. might be worth a look even though im after one in CW
does it end up being worth it buying from a private sale? considering dealers arent that much more expensive and can be haggled down quite a bit. also their price includes the transfer/stampduty which is already around $600
KEEP IT VIET | KEEP IT JDM FaLL iN LoVe WheN YoU aRe ReAdY, NoT WhEN YoU ARe LOnEly
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15-05-2013 08:42 AM
#14889
Originally Posted by charliebrown
yeah seen that black one, very nicely priced. might be worth a look even though im after one in CW
does it end up being worth it buying from a private sale? considering dealers arent that much more expensive and can be haggled down quite a bit. also their price includes the transfer/stampduty which is already around $600
once you go black you cant go back cb
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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15-05-2013 11:13 AM
#14890
Originally Posted by LittleDragon^^
I didn't know what "wheel hop" was. Googled it and realised what that horrible feeling is when I launch it hard! So the cure is engine mounts? Any recommendations?!
I shift too slow to have wheel hop.
But yes engine mounts would help a lot
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15-05-2013 11:44 AM
#14891
Does anyoneknow where I can get the upper strut bearing plates for EP3?
Any info would be much appricated
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15-05-2013 01:57 PM
#14892
Originally Posted by butterfingers
I shift too slow to have wheel hop.
But yes engine mounts would help a lot
Thanks butterfingers. Are there any brands you'd recommend?
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