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How did you "slam" your past cars? Cut springs, coils, airbags?
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no we are talking about koni with eibach springs...
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 Originally Posted by Daveho1
known people with both and have tried both. still recon the coils are the goods
because harder = more sportier which automatically means better feedback and faster cornering right??
S P A M | W O R K S
hehe.
PHC
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yep that exactly what im saying...
no, based on what i have seen from these setups the bc offered a better feel imo as i said..
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 Originally Posted by Daveho1
yep that exactly what im saying...
no, based on what i have seen from these setups the bc offered a better feel imo as i said..
 Originally Posted by Daveho1
yes for your purposes at street speeds the BC coilovers will perform well, they have been around for ages now and there are plenty of reviews on em.
although a shock spring combo is fine aswell the price tags arnt that different and you can rebuild, re valve or change springs later if need be.
so basicly;
shocks/spring pros;
pritty good on the street
cheaper in the us
bc coilover pros;
pritty good on the street
competitive price
rebuildable
options of spring rates
very adjustable (not just height son)
1. you're contradicting yourself. one minnit saying you were talking about feels where i can quote you talking about performance
2. you said I put words in your mouth/keyboard, when you've ether: missed out details in a deliberate attempt to mislead, or are an empty bucket attempting to make the most noise... you sound like a salesman!
S P A M | W O R K S
hehe.
PHC
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i didnt slam my card pretty.much all had cut springs.
and well, that escalated quikly.....
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Hi RA73DR,
Everything below is in context to Macpherson equipped cars like your DC5R, its slightly different to cars equipped with different suspension layout, usually they can run stiffer suspension without as harsh of a trade off in comparison.
From what I've found with previous cars and DC5R/EP3R project cars I've worked on. They were extremely sensitive to suspension alterations. A lot of people that recommend the cheaper coilovers are correct, they are quite good for that price HOWEVER they're usually used on the older Honda chassis [EG/EK/DC2/etc] which use double wishbone. They're more forgiving and compliant with suspension alterations ie, you can run stiffer suspension and the comfort + compliance/sensitivity isn't affected as much as they are with Macpherson. It is much harder to improve suspension performance in the newer Honda's compared to the older ones without going towards a racing setup which isn't ideal for daily.
So for you, you're after daily and spirited driving with only slightly lowering [1"?]. For the street, you want the your suspension to maintain contact with the road at all times [Meaning it absorb imperfections rather than bounce off them], be comfortable for a relaxing drive but firm can communicative when you want to push. This does not generally favourite the cheaper coilovers [There are exceptions but not many] as they're generally overly sprung and undervalved thus giving harsh ride and are very sensitive to imperfections.
Durability wise, considering the cheaper coilovers, some people get good life out of them, others kill them within 2 years. This is dependent on road condition, quality of the unit and user preference [Height + Damper Settings]. Shocks on the otherhand tend to be more robust. Koni Yellow can be rebuild and they can be revalved too! They're generally cheaper to rebuild too 
Thus I recommend shocks + springs along with swaybars + PU suspension bushing to improve your car's performance. Coilovers in general for DC5R/EP3R [Unless you're willing to spend big dollars like Bilstein B12/PSS9/PSS10 which are beautiful coilovers] tend to be quite stiff and doesn't inspire confidence or control when you go have fun on those mountain roads. Shock n Springs generally provide better dampening for your price bracket and when you add the Swaybars + PU Bushing, it will eliminate the body roll while making the car tighter without too much compromise.
Check out my other post in the Suspension sub-forum if you want to see more Suspension tech 
NB: If possible, go try out other people rides if you can so you can see for yourself 
 Originally Posted by RA73DR
in that case, Dreadangel, as mentioned i am leaning towards spring and shock combo. for the shock i plan on getting koni. now for the springs i have 3 options.
1- the spring shop makes the springs for me since they are a manufacturer. cost is 350 all round
2- i use eibach pro kit or the other eibach sport line roighly 450 dollars.
3- just came across the ground control coilover with eibach springs approx 480.
whay would you recomend out of the three alongside the koni shocks
#1 - I'd be careful with custom springs, you will need to check how they make your springs as some places use inferior material and techniques which can see springs crack under abuse.
#2 - Eibach in generally have a good reputation, I think Pro Kit better for you because the Sportline are stiffer and lower...
#3 - Koni Yellow + Eibach Springs + Ground Control Sleeves basically gives you a Koni Yellow/Eibach Spring Coilovers. You probably don't need to use this unless you want to go lower
Last edited by DreadAngel; 28-07-2013 at 03:39 AM.
Toda Racing AU | Shen * Speed Works | Jesse Streeter
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good ass info here^^^ OP allow me to clarify a few of my opinions;
i didnt mention adjustablilty on shocks as for one koni yellows arnt adjustable in the way coilovers are
when i refer to performance im talking about street performance not track use i.e how stable they are on corners at street speed/how they absorb small pot holes, as that what u said thats what the car would be used for instead of track times as i haven't tracked these setups
i recomended BC specifically over the buddyclubs as they tend to have a softer ride which should help with the McPherson type suspension you have, i have been in and driven several cars with mcpherson type suspension configurations and the BC seem to be more forgiving then most.
as ive said several times this is just my opinion obviously i couldnt care what you choose especially since its fukn wif my rep, now i gotta spam heeeeeps of fools to get dat rep back
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thanx guys much alpreciated.
last i did a 50km trip home from work and then stopped on the side of the road to make a phone call and as the car was idling i heard a ticking noise thought it was from interior so i started hitting everything no luck,
i relised when i break it was theee but when i release the break it would go away and somrtimes same with clutch, this was only at idle, any ideas ?
also i had my car serviced for first time 3 days ago with penrite full synthetic oil. itd so hard for me to read the oil on the dipstick because its my first time dealing with this type of thin oil. anywho first day i got it back i checked it several times till i relised it was covering the dimple on the full line so it was fine. i have done approx 500km since then lot of vtec mainly just the occassional 2nd and third pull but regularly . i checked oil now and i dont know if my eyes are decieving me or the oil is half way on the dip stick. this surely cant be normal, i know they are notorious for burnong oil but come on this is ridiculous . any ideas ?
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well there are several possibilities the ticking may just be injectors, the valve train or it could be an interior rattle as you said. as for the oil you can only get an accurate reading after the car has been sitting a while give the car a little while to sit and then recheck. if it has burnt that oil then move up to a slightly thicker oil. what viscosity was used at service? lemme guess 5w-30
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nah mate 5w40. if it did need bumping up do you think i should go 10w40 or 15w40 . also im at work so car will be parked till 7 will check it at like 4pm or so and report back. thanx mate and everyone else for all the help
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hmmm close well IF it is burning oil then it would be worth moving to something a tad thicker, i usually use the thinnest oil the engine alows on my b18c2 thats a 15w-40 cause old but deff confirm that it is burning oil.
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