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so got my car tuned recently and was checking in my kpro. then i found
vtec window:
lower boundary 4000rpm 70kpa
upper boundary 4500rpm 90kpa
im thinking this means if i was to keep throttle low and rev all the way to 8000rpm vtec wouldnt kick in right?
isnt upper boundary supposed to be set at much lower map reading e.g. 30kpa?
thanks for input
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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Originally Posted by mocchi
so got my car tuned recently and was checking in my kpro. then i found
vtec window:
lower boundary 4000rpm 70kpa
upper boundary 4500rpm 90kpa
im thinking this means if i was to keep throttle low and rev all the way to 8000rpm vtec wouldnt kick in right?
isnt upper boundary supposed to be set at much lower map reading e.g. 30kpa?
thanks for input
Yeah you're right, the upper boundary should be a lower number ie. it should only rev to the upper RPM limit at a low throttle opening and hence lower MAP. As it is your car will always engage VTEC at 4000.
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Originally Posted by chargeR
Yeah you're right, the upper boundary should be a lower number ie. it should only rev to the upper RPM limit at a low throttle opening and hence lower MAP. As it is your car will always engage VTEC at 4000.
doesnt it mean that if map doesnt read more than 70kpa, i wouldnt engage vtak ever?
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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Originally Posted by mocchi
doesnt it mean that if map doesnt read more than 70kpa, i wouldnt engage vtak ever?
Hmm actually on second thought I've got no idea what would happen with the VTEC parameters set up like that. At worst it will always engage at the upper boundary (4500) irrespective of MAP/load. It's your car, you tell me haha, what RPM does the VTAKs arrive?
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Hey,
For the upper window, If you are 90kpa or over then only until the revs are at 4500rpm will VTEC engage.
After VTEC has engaged.
For the low window, Only until you are below 70kpa and below 4000rpm will VTEC dis-engage.
This is to reduce a 'jerk' type of power delivery when driving around the VTEC window rpm's. If you only have a switch around the VTEC 'window' then the car is quite annoying to drive around those rpms.
Hope this helps.
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How was the tune mocchi? Who did you end up going with?
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Originally Posted by chargeR
Hmm actually on second thought I've got no idea what would happen with the VTEC parameters set up like that. At worst it will always engage at the upper boundary (4500) irrespective of MAP/load. It's your car, you tell me haha, what RPM does the VTAKs arrive?
Originally Posted by dasicvtec
Hey,
For the upper window, If you are 90kpa or over then only until the revs are at 4500rpm will VTEC engage.
After VTEC has engaged.
For the low window, Only until you are below 70kpa and below 4000rpm will VTEC dis-engage.
This is to reduce a 'jerk' type of power delivery when driving around the VTEC window rpm's. If you only have a switch around the VTEC 'window' then the car is quite annoying to drive around those rpms.
Hope this helps.
the help file suggest that purpose of upper boundary is not for disengaging vtak but to activate vtak on part throttle.
so my guess was confirmed below. vtec parameters was indeed set incorrectly.
Originally Posted by Spunkster
You should talk to your tuner as this is set backwards. THe upper boundry should only come on at higher load (less vacuum).
Your upper boundry is the point at which the VTEC will activate even at part throttle.
Originally Posted by neut
How was the tune mocchi? Who did you end up going with?
tune was alright. cbauto.
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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That doesnt sound right at all.
mine was
lower 5000 / 90
upper 5200 / 24
for the k24 + bp stage 2+ cams
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Ok. I'm back on the never ending hunt for knowledge and parts.
I'm about to upgrade the drivetrain of my own.
I posted the below on an American forum. But just in case anyone in Australia has already tackled this, with parts readily available to us, I thought it best to ask around in here too.
Currently:
- EK Hatchback 1998 Model
- K20A2 Conversion
- Hasport EKK1 mounts
- Mixed shafts. DC5R outers and DC2R inners
Want to upgrade to:
- Hasport EKK2 mounts
- Using DC2R subframe
- I plan on purchasing a set of Karcepts 36mm hub adaptors
- Going to use DC5R axles
Is the inners swapped for length still required? Most of the talk is about base model DC5 and not much on hubs with Karcepts hub adaptors.
My apologies if this has already been cleared up.
On a side note:
A couple of things I'm also trying to research on are headers and power steering;
- Will upgrading from EKK1 to EKK2 mounts require a new set of headers due to the angle, etc, etc.
- And, will using the DC5 power steering system on EKK2 mounts still work without using hood lifters? I'm ok with cutting the bracing underneath the hood to make it work.
Any light on the above is much appreciated. Will continue to search around for the answers on the above to if anyone does not want to clutter this thread with other information.
And just in case my explanation of the "DC5 power steering system" doesn't make sense. This is what my bay looks like.
Thanks all
Mark
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Im pretty sure you dont have a clearance problems like eg civics have. I had to cut and make a hump on mine. If anything I think you have to cut the inner skeleton abit to clear that powersteering unit. But im pretty sure ek dont have a problem with clearance. Love your ek! Looks so fresh out of the factory.
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CIV-18C
If you are doing the subframe why not change all the hubs to dc2r (better wheels choice,also bigger brakes ect)
to shed light what headers are you running atm ???
and with running ps shouldn't change much but i dont have it so i wouldn't know lol
how long has your car been done for as i have never seen it anywhere ?!?
lol
d16y4>>k24a3 for the win !!!!
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Originally Posted by neut
Im pretty sure you dont have a clearance problems like eg civics have. I had to cut and make a hump on mine. If anything I think you have to cut the inner skeleton abit to clear that powersteering unit. But im pretty sure ek dont have a problem with clearance. Love your ek! Looks so fresh out of the factory.
Thanks for the reply Neut.
You're correct. I had to cut part of the skeleton to make it clear. But I think going with the EKK2 mounts means I need the swap will "resemble the placement of an EG". So I think you're right. The hump will have to come. But I'm not too keen on it so may opt for the EP3 pulley.
Thanks for the kind words too.
Originally Posted by Slow.ek1
CIV-18C
If you are doing the subframe why not change all the hubs to dc2r (better wheels choice,also bigger brakes ect)
to shed light what headers are you running atm ???
and with running ps shouldn't change much but i dont have it so i wouldn't know lol
how long has your car been done for as i have never seen it anywhere ?!?
lol
My hub/stud pattern were decided upon recently due to the purchase of wheels that I have been keen on for a LONG time now. And having read the reviews on Karcept hubs I'm not too hesitant to use them in order to upgrade to a 36mm spline and keep using the wheels I just bought
=)
Right now my headers are R Crew headers. Old brand so you may not have heard of it. Have recently bought J's Racing headers to upgrade that also. Not much more info I can give than that sorry as I'm not really sure what you're after ?
As above for power steering. I have a ill feeling I will need to do something aboutit due to clearance issues
=(
Car was completed in October 2006.
Hence the EKK1 mounts and old R Crew headers being used.
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