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Originally Posted by Jasemas
Wouldn't it have been cheaper if you didn't buy the Ebay turbo kit in the first place?
And bought everything piece by piece (quality , not knock offs)
Naa, everything on the kit was good enough to sustain daily use, but it has provided me a good base to get things working and then slowly work on improving the system to sustain track use.
If i was to buy it individually i would have spent allllot more.
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Originally Posted by fezzy101
Purchased an aftermarket External waste-gate
The dump pipe on the system which connected up to a flex wasn't the best of quality so that's why i had a custom exhaust made from the turbo back.
They come with a knockoff HKS Blow off valve, but I didn't want it connected so atm its just acting as a plug.
The oil return lines didn't really work so i had to get that custom fitted.
also i purchased an aftermarket oil feed line and had to modify the adapter on the turbo side because the aluminum adapter provided is very very flimsy and got threaded after the first time i used it.
It might sounds stupid but i also replaced all the bolts on the system with my own because i didnt trust their strength.
good idea on replacing the bolts.
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Wouldn't it have been cheaper if you didn't buy the Ebay turbo kit in the first place?
And bought everything piece by piece (quality , not knock offs)
its ok, ebay kit is not that expensive, and it gives you a template of the turbo kits, like how the intercooler pipe is, and u can test fit everything, and change the critical part accordingly like the manifold and bolts.
connorling, your profile and evidenced by your post tells me alot about what type of feral you are..... all class 'hay'!!!! ps. not your m8....
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Originally Posted by connorling
good idea on replacing the bolts.
its ok, ebay kit is not that expensive, and it gives you a template of the turbo kits, like how the intercooler pipe is, and u can test fit everything, and change the critical part accordingly like the manifold and bolts.
The most crucial thing that i need to change is the manifold because i know the welds aren't great and long term wont last.
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Just a quick update, I spoke to the tuner today and he said that he has finished wiring everything up and the ecu is working as it should and working with the sensors in the car.
He mentioned that he needs to open up the dizzy to change a few things but im hoping to have the car running by the end of the weekend and might even pop into wakefield park on monday.
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Have a read.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3036122
http://www.teammfactory.com/faqs_quaife
There's a good reason why MFactory is leading in the north american market
MFactory Competition Products
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Excellent thread. Love the SOHC. Thinking of turbo'ing mine next year and have had my eye on the Godspeed kit too.
Have you seen this thread? Worth a look.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/produ...it-review.html
Curious to know when you'll hit peak boost using a T3/4. Please report back when you get it tuned!
Originally Posted by fezzy101
I have been informed by my tuner that I can make something in the region of 120kws with very low boost. 4-6psi I should be making about 120kws ATW. Then when I get bigger injectors and some other bits and bobs ill crank it to 11psi. and i should be making about 140-150kws. (stock internals) Note the car weighs about 850kws, so still better then a b swap, so far.
Im running 4 studs at the moment but im looking to do a DC2R Hub conversion very shortly my priority is to get the turbo working and reliable first.
Break pads, thats awesome. That would be sweet to have for when mine start to wear from the track days. I appreciate it
Finally I'd be very careful exceeding the 120KW ATW mark. The SOHC D-series rods are well known for only holding approximately 200HP, which is 150KW, or about 120-130KW ATW after drivetrain losses. After that they start to snap and punch holes in your block. If you're going over the 130KW mark you really need to consider forged internals or at least cryogenically treating your OEM ones to make them stronger.
Oh and M-Factory LSD's are good IMO. Sticking one in my EF8 atm as well as their 4.9 FD
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MFactory/Quaife LSD's are the way to go, but MFactory seems to be more common amongst the population.
If possible/money permits it would be good at looking at forged internals just as dougie said; CP/Eagle
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Originally Posted by dougie_504
Excellent thread. Love the SOHC. Thinking of turbo'ing mine next year and have had my eye on the Godspeed kit too.
Have you seen this thread? Worth a look.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/produ...it-review.html
Curious to know when you'll hit peak boost using a T3/4. Please report back when you get it tuned!
Finally I'd be very careful exceeding the 120KW ATW mark. The SOHC D-series rods are well known for only holding approximately 200HP, which is 150KW, or about 120-130KW ATW after drivetrain losses. After that they start to snap and punch holes in your block. If you're going over the 130KW mark you really need to consider forged internals or at least cryogenically treating your OEM ones to make them stronger.
Oh and M-Factory LSD's are good IMO. Sticking one in my EF8 atm as well as their 4.9 FD
To right you are, I dont want to go to 150kws till I have forged internals that means forged piston heads and forged rods. and in combination with the lsd and the aftermrket clutch everything should run smoothly.
I have a oil cooler, bought an aftermarket one which ill also install to keep everyhig cool.
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Before
After
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Originally Posted by fezzy101
Purchased an aftermarket External waste-gate
The dump pipe on the system which connected up to a flex wasn't the best of quality so that's why i had a custom exhaust made from the turbo back.
They come with a knockoff HKS Blow off valve, but I didn't want it connected so atm its just acting as a plug.
The oil return lines didn't really work so i had to get that custom fitted.
also i purchased an aftermarket oil feed line and had to modify the adapter on the turbo side because the aluminum adapter provided is very very flimsy and got threaded after the first time i used it.
It might sounds stupid but i also replaced all the bolts on the system with my own because i didnt trust their strength.
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Wouldn't it have been cheaper if you didn't buy the Ebay turbo kit in the first place?
And bought everything piece by piece (quality , not knock offs)
Originally Posted by fezzy101
Before
After
i remember these wiring haha.
i had to do something under the dash and my god, wires everywhere!
change the manifold for sure.
connorling, your profile and evidenced by your post tells me alot about what type of feral you are..... all class 'hay'!!!! ps. not your m8....
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Yea dude we literally opened up the dash and was like WTF is this jungle gym of wiring. Note to anyone that is looking at taking the dash out of the EK honda Civic, It is a massive pain in the ass because there is like 10000 nuts that are holding it in.
On another note if you want to take the heater out of the car that is also a pain in the ass and its advised for you to take out the Dizzy because it makes it allot easier to access the pipes and hoses that are connected to the heater in the cockpit.
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Hey all,
Just a quick update, So speaking to the tuner today everything seems to be going as they should be altough we are still having trouble getting the wiring system to function correctly with the aftermarket ECU.
The problem at the moment is that the car is using a digital Dizzy, and as many of you might know this is almost impossible to work out when things happen unless you already know.
So to make things easier for the tuner i thought it might be worth asking around to see if anyone has a spare NON-DIGital Honda Civic EKI Distributor laying around. Its basically the last step in the process that is holding up the car starting.
Thanks,
ps ill post up some pictures very shortly.
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