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 Originally Posted by dougie_504
I'll be interested to see what your results are over a 6-12 month period. I'm betting zero/minimal difference.
Will keep you guys posted.
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i hope ppl dont think that by changing to thicker oil than specified in manual, is good for engine cos it reduces oil leak/burning problem.
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
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 Originally Posted by Daveho1
thats the dumbest thing i think i have ever heard.
I should have put in a caveat that it's not true I guess
'99 DC2R, '90 BMW E30 318is, '88 CRX
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 Originally Posted by Jasemas
Is that why you had to replace the main seals a few years ago because you went from dino to full synthetic?
and it blew out the seals?
Ummm... no. I did a US order on parts (infinitely cheaper than buying in Aust) and went nuts buying things including seals, gaskets, injector rings etc as pre-emptive maintenance on a car with over 240K kms on it. I did the same with my EF9 when it hit 250K kms (and wasn't leaking oil either).
Not sure I've ever "blown out a seal" - is this some kind of innuendo about aquatic sex?
'99 DC2R, '90 BMW E30 318is, '88 CRX
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 Originally Posted by mocchi
i hope ppl dont think that by changing to thicker oil than specified in manual, is good for engine cos it reduces oil leak/burning problem.
Exactly my thoughts too.
Just bcos its not burning, doesn't mean its good for engine
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 Originally Posted by dougie_504
What oil is so superior?
How much exactly does a good or bad oil effect consumption?
If you think it makes a difference then it must be a real poofteenth and certainly not a genuine selling point for any oil.
I've used FEO, Magnatec 10W-40 semi, Nulon 10W-40 synth (just remembered actually) and currently using Penrite 10W-50 synth with zinc. My fuel economy with the Penrite is currently the best it's ever been since I bought the car in early 2008. So that's five and a half years, and I always drive until my tank light comes on, fill up at the same BP, and calculate my economy per tank.
This is why I went 10W-50, and IMO it's the only good reason to change viscosity. I'm burning about 700-800ml less oil each 5,000KM. Engine is getting on a bit obviously.
Magnatec 5w30, tried it.
was getting 12.5ltr/100km
Changed to usdm full syn mobile1 same viscosity.
instantly 11.5ltr/100km
V6 Vitara.
I would rather use recommended viscosity and top up than use thicker oil.
Last edited by cbauto; 02-12-2013 at 07:55 PM.
SSpamily
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Interesting.
And with the 10-50 I really don't think 50 hot is too thick. I was burning 1.5L every 5,000KM on the 10-40. Now about 800ml. I find this preferable to running a 5-30 because it lubricates a bit better and topping up every 1,000KM.
D16Y1 for OP.
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to be honest id rather run my 15w-40, my engines worn, the tolerances are wider then in a new engine. the thicker oil dosnt burn but it dose maintain good pressure and lubricates well. it dose what i want it to
Mate my bbk cost more than your Honda.
-Amant02
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in addition read any lube guide from any of the manufacturs, i doubt many are recomending 5w-30 for a gsi most now will say 15w 40. because its really not the same engine it was 20 years ago...
Mate my bbk cost more than your Honda.
-Amant02
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 Originally Posted by menacer
To quote me :
For your specific situation I'd be running some engine flush when you do your change
People, what are your thoughts on engine oil flush?
I've used it twice so far. Haven't experienced any issues, but I've read so many articles. Some that support engine oil flush, and some that are against it.
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 Originally Posted by vs2306
People, what are your thoughts on engine oil flush?
I've used it twice so far. Haven't experienced any issues, but I've read so many articles. Some that support engine oil flush, and some that are against it.
Regular oil changes
And you're good
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