Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 12 of 14
  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    '94 Accord VTi

    HELP! Right hand rear disc capiler locked on!

    Howdy, have done a quick search and didn't find anything. I'm really hoping for a fast answer here because my car is undrivable.

    Symptoms:

    Car has had long-running weak handbrake issues. Since I've owned it for the last 6-7 months it has had the cable tightened a good few times and still has no chance of holding on any sort of hill. Car does not slow down even a little it handbrake is applied while moving (not that I did this to wreck it, or would EVER do it with a working brake, just proving the point it simply does not grab.)

    Ok, tonight moving the car in my own driveway. It is cold, brakes are cold. Trying to shift the car on a fair incline I had to apply some serious handbrake to prevent flying backward into a brick wall. Pulled her on pretty hard, proceded up the drive and into garage onto (obviously) a flat surface. At this point I realised something in the back was dragging horrribly. Released brake immediately, can't push car at all. yay.

    Tried to 'shock' and bump it into releasing driving around my block at low speeds. Would stop every 50 odd metres to let the brake cool as the heat only made things expand and grab harder. No dice at all.

    Where to from here people? Really appreciate any input.

    I've put this in the accord forum as it is a '94 Accord Vti, but mods please don't tag the subject line - any tips form people with cars having rear discs would rock.

    Thanks all, sorry for the essay, and the many mistakes it almost certainly contains...

  2. #2
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    sounds like your rear caliper has seized in the on position.

    this is going to be fun to fix.
    unless your a mechanic or confident backyard mechanic, take it to a mechanic to have it fixed. your rear calipers could need to be overhauled.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    '94 Accord VTi
    Thanks for the response.

    I will certainly have it attended to (brakes are important, and stuff), but the issue is actually getting it to my mechanic. 50m at a time is impossible, and it has already been on a truck once in the few crappy months I have owned her.

    If I can get the capiler to release I should be ok...

  4. #4
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    probably wont get it to release. if you did what would the quality of your brakes be. could seize again


    you will have to invest in a tow truck.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Car:
    Integra *True* R
    It's probably your brake booster mate.
    For Sale: Sold

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    '94 Accord VTi
    I am after tips to get it to release.

    If I fail, or the brake craps out again, I will attend to towing.

    If if were the booster, wouldn't both the rear brakes show similar symptoms? 99% sure it is only the left hand side... (heat + smell - left is cool enough to put my hand on and leave it there, right is burning up)

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Car:
    Integra *True* R
    If you want it to release why not bleed the line?
    For Sale: Sold

  8. #8
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    might not be hydraulic lock, rather mechanical. bleeding is not a good idea if this dude plans on driving this to his mechanic

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Car:
    Integra *True* R
    He can't drive it in it's current condition.

    Anyway here's what I would do (but neither I or Ozhonda take any responsibility for damage or injury).

    1. Bleed the line and push the piston back (if that is the problem). Otherwise remove the brake pads from the caliper (making sure the caliper won't rub against the rotor).
    2. Unplug the rear brake line from the faulty caliper.
    3. Drive slowly to the nearest mechanic.

    Your safest bet is to tow it.
    For Sale: Sold

  10. #10
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    man, thats some pretty brave advice

    if he unplugs the bake line from the faulty caliper, as soon as he presses the brake pedal he will loose fluid from it. this also makes the right front caliper inoperative.

    just tow it, dont risk killing your self or anyone else

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    '94 Accord VTi
    Front and rear are seperate braking systems are they not? (honest question here, I was just under the impression they were)

    I wouldn't bleed them myself, not with no workshop manual and no experience doing it.

    Anyway, that is a seriously good way to die. And can you imagine the insurance claim with an inoperative brake!

    Thanks though mate. I have just spoken to a mate who suffered a similar fate after pulling his hardbrake too hard. Cable got snagged on the chassis and would not release. I'll investigate first thing tomorrow.

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Car:
    Integra *True* R
    Well, common sense would indicate that he should seal the unplugged brake line - not leave it dangling freely in mid air.

    But like I said, his safest bet is to tow it.
    For Sale: Sold

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.