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  1. #13
    Hey bennjamin hows it going?

    In your experience and given eekayfo's post, (excuse my ignorance) what would the effect be with 22mm on both front and rear sway bar. Would it increase the oversteer significantly? The EK is a daily driver and King Spring lows on it at the moment.

    I do believe that I would also need to change the stock EK gli rear lower control arms to fit the 22mm on the rear? but I stand to be corrected on this?

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Cranbourne West
    Car:
    DA9 Integra
    Quote Originally Posted by Honda View Post
    Currently have:
    - Ek4 rear sway bar
    - EK1 front sway bar
    and I'm thinking of installing a ek4 front chassis brace.

    For a FWD, the rear sway bar made a difference, and I'm thinking it might stiffen the car too much if I put a chassis brace at the front? or is it better to do this?

    and then, possibly upgrade the front sway bar to ek4? (maybe)
    I use the stock standard sway bar on my purpose built race car Integra LS 173KW @ wheels and it works fine.
    Why anyone would think changing the swaybar will help on the road is beyond me !!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hwnKCTRsBg

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sydney - Cabramatta/Liver
    Car:
    Jazz EVO IX
    if you want more oversteer you need to increase the rear swaybar strength.
    BTW the EK rear sub-frame is pretty weak, i'd suggest getting a ASR brace.


    Front chassis brace does help, but the stock one is pretty piss weak from an ek4.
    I change all my bracing one at a time and I did notice the difference in the chassis brace.
    You can get them pretty cheap
    Evo IX - THE FINAL EVOLUTION

  4. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by gbpracing View Post
    I use the stock standard sway bar on my purpose built race car Integra LS 173KW @ wheels and it works fine.
    Why anyone would think changing the swaybar will help on the road is beyond me !!
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hwnKCTRsBg

    ...and what springs / spring rates are you running ?
    There is heated discussion on the internets about (in a FWD) a bigger rear swaybar vs stiffer spring rates - but you are missing the point. To maintain comfort and increase handling ability you upgrade the rear swaybar. Simple. These arent race cars like you show.

  5. #17
    i think on a race car hitting 230km in 5th, the last thing you want is to spin out of control on a corner. in a daily driver that only really pushes its handleing ability hooking around corners in the burb's, your alot less likley to loose traction and spin. and as such, the noticeable increase in oversteer is more "welcomed".

    i drove a a mates cxi civic with skunk2 lowering springs 17"s with low profiles(tyre profile is also a contributor to body roll, im really happy with my 205/50/15 as far as comfort is concerned compared with low profiles), stock 22mm ?? front bar and no rear. it had more oversteer then my stock ek4. granted the ride was shit but i would probably put that down to the blown stock dampers. i guess honda gave the faster ek4 more oversteer to stop people killing themselfs in the wet? they could have easily run a 22 f

    ps. dont buy a fake asr, they do not fit. get a whiteline for the same price. im sure you would see a benefit even with a 13mm

  6. #18
    in a EK GLI scenario would you get more of an improvement in handling and cornering running a 22mm/13mm setup than a 22mm/22mm setup? Obviously a 26mm / 22cm would be optimal with subbrace?

  7. #19
    Not sure if you al have seen this website but very interesting website to do some calculations.... with an explanation of this: http://www.blackartdynamics.com/Chas...ransferDC2.php

    All those inputs are for a DC2-R, it's close enough to a Civic that you can just play with the spring rates and ARB diameters to see what effects the changes have.

    The figure to look at is 'Front Diagonal'. This is the percentage of the total load transfer going across the front axle as is what the springs and bars affect, determining the basic handling balance.

    An understeering Civic/Integra will be over 45% and an oversteering one will be under 40%.

    A nicely balanced one will have that figure around about 40-45% with the lateral acceleration set at .7G.

    You can set lat. acc. higher, but depending on the setup, lifting the inside rear wheel distorts the results.

  8. #20
    interesting readings i get with 22mm / 22mm

    Lateral Acceleration: G
    Static weight distribution: %
    Vehicle mass: lbs
    CoG Height: in
    Front Rear
    Track Width: in
    Roll Center Height: in
    Unsprung Mass: lbs
    Coil Spring Rate: lbs/in
    Motion Ratio:
    Bar Outer Diameter: mm
    Bar Wall Thickness: in
    Bar Length: in
    Arm Length: in
    Bar Motion Ratio: in
    Front Rear
    Ride Frequency 1.22 hz 1.55 hz
    Wheel Rate (spring) 105.5 lbs/in 98.6 lbs/in
    Wheel rate (bar) 25.98 lbs/in 221.91 lbs/in
    Roll Stiffness 29.1% 70.9%
    Load transfers
    Unsprung 18 lbs 17 lbs
    Geometric 17 lbs 24 lbs
    Elastic 148 lbs 360 lbs
    Combined 182 lbs 401 lbs


    Chassis roll angle 2.2°

    Total Load Transfer 583 lbs

    Front Diagonal 41.04%

    HOWEVER with 22mm/13mm I get the following:

    Lateral Acceleration: G
    Static weight distribution: %
    Vehicle mass: lbs
    CoG Height: in
    Front Rear
    Track Width: in
    Roll Center Height: in
    Unsprung Mass: lbs
    Coil Spring Rate: lbs/in
    Motion Ratio:
    Bar Outer Diameter: mm
    Bar Wall Thickness: in
    Bar Length: in
    Arm Length: in
    Bar Motion Ratio: in
    Front Rear
    Ride Frequency 1.22 hz 1.55 hz
    Wheel Rate (spring) 105.5 lbs/in 98.6 lbs/in
    Wheel rate (bar) 25.98 lbs/in 27.06 lbs/in
    Roll Stiffness 51.1% 48.9%
    Load transfers
    Unsprung 18 lbs 17 lbs
    Geometric 17 lbs 24 lbs
    Elastic 259 lbs 248 lbs
    Combined 294 lbs 289 lbs


    Chassis roll angle 3.86°

    Total Load Transfer 583 lbs

    Front Diagonal 50.21%

    hmmmm interesting results

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Syd
    Car:
    EK
    Didnt want to start a new thread, got a similar question.

    I just realised that my ek1 has no front or rear swaybar.

    I was rolling round on pedders springs with stock shocks, then upgraded to king springs with kyb shocks. This improved the handling, but i am still feeling a bit of bodyroll.

    in terms of oem ek bars

    Front
    -22mm - EK1
    -26mm - EK4/EK9

    Rear
    -14mm - EK4
    -22mm - EK9

    For a cheap upgrade would EK4 rear bar and EK1 front bar be a decent enough improvement?

  10. #22
    Yes, it will make a significant difference to the way the car corners without hurting the ride quality
    Using Tapatalk

  11. #23
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Syd
    Car:
    EK
    ok, so which front swaybar would be the best balanced match for the EK4 14mm rear?

    Having no front swaybar, the 22mm or the 26mm?

    Ill probably end up upgrading the rear again to a 22mm+ with reinforcment etc later on.
    Last edited by Darmanin; 06-05-2014 at 05:28 PM.

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    www.alibaba.com
    Car:
    porsche boxster
    ek4 or equiv. size front will do and dc2r or ek9 rear

    then later maybe look into changing the kingspring for a premium coil like eibach or SPOON

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