EP3 Type R

[SHRUKA]

Try upgrading your tie rod ends, that should help.

My EP does that too, but it's not really bad. Only time it was really bad was the first time I took it for a spin after installing my engine mounts. When it hit vtec, it steered my into the opposite lane!

I also notice it gets worse as you go up in wheel/tyre width. On my stock wheels, it's pretty normal, 205/45/17. On my 17x9 regamasters it's probably the worst, 215/45/17.

I recently change from a 16x8 185/55/16, to a 16x8.5 205/50/16 and notice it is more twitchy when accelerating through vtec. Again, it's not that bad.

Try changing your front wheels back to stock if you can, see if it goes away. That way you can test and rule out if it's and alignment issue or if something is broken/worn.

Btw, I'm currently running a bit of toe out in the front. Zero toe in the rear. Around -3.0 front, -5.0 rear camber.

I chucked back on my stockies last night (215/45/17 all around) and it was still pulling the opposite way on VTEC.

I'm currently running zero toe all around.

Ill try changing the tie rod ends to some brand new ones but is there anything else I can do before that?

[RPS.13]

The only other mods I have up front are roll centre adjuster, aftermarket lca bushes and camber bolts. Which were added to refine my setup and help with the alignment.

Can't really suggest anything else, as that's all I've tried so far. As previously mentioned, mine isn't too bad. Hence why I haven't look into it any further. Kind of feels like when you drive on tram tracks, but not as bad as that.

You can try checking your rod ends for any abnormal play.

Have you noticed any clunking in the steering lately? i.e. Driving over low speed bumps, pot holes, undulating surfaces.

[UNA91]

just took my rear folding seats out and found that they were very rusty behind the upholstery at the back of them

[latinstyle69]

just took my rear folding seats out and found that they were very rusty behind the upholstery at the back of them

Was it much effort? I've been wanting to remove mine too

And rust damn I might just have to check mine

[-JC-]

Hey guys, if anyone is looking at buying an EP3R that's been fastidiously maintained and has about 110k on the clock, drop me a line. Considering an upgrade.

[charliebrown]

What are you looking to upgrade to?

[-JC-]

Looking at a Lexus ISF or similar, not 100% sure just yet, but I'm leaning that way at the minute.

[UNA91]

Looking at a Lexus ISF or similar, not 100% sure just yet, but I'm leaning that way at the minute.

Baller! I'd love a c63 amg

Was it much effort? I've been wanting to remove mine too

And rust damn I might just have to check mine

Wasn't hard just the bolts that hold the seats down are abit awkward to get to. A 12mm and 10mm spanner is all you need

[-JC-]

Baller! I'd love a c63 amg

Me too man, but I can't justify the extra cost over an ISF. I also like my cars pretty rare (I do have an EP3 remember) so the ISF kinda fits the bill.

Having said that, I am not in the market just yet, so who knows what else may come up.

[mryangtastic]

Problem: Every time the EP3 enters and exits my car port, the b-pipe scrapes.
Solution: Custom b-pipe made up, with greater ground clearance. Perhaps no central muffler?

I'm new to playing with cars, so I'd like to know if this practice is common or not. I just thought of it as an effective solution.

[Mikeyy168]

It's the cat and just behind the cat where it scrapes - start of b pipe

[stienerv2]

Problem: Every time the EP3 enters and exits my car port, the b-pipe scrapes.
Solution: Custom b-pipe made up, with greater ground clearance. Perhaps no central muffler?

I'm new to playing with cars, so I'd like to know if this practice is common or not. I just thought of it as an effective solution.

You can get rid of the middle resonator and get a custom b-pipe but there are several issues you have to be careful of.

1. It may drone if you get rid of the resonator
2. If the b pipe is too close to the body, it may hit it under load.