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Thread: EP3 Type R

  1. #16489
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Honda Civic EP3
    lower control arms need replacing.
    where can i get them locally?
    will the civic EU ones or DC5 fit?

  2. #16490
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EP3R
    Quote Originally Posted by MarkO1995 View Post
    lower control arms need replacing.
    where can i get them locally?
    will the civic EU ones or DC5 fit?
    DC5 ones have different bolt pattern, not sure about EU

    just get some aftermarket hardrace/skunk2/function7s
    vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee

    IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?

  3. #16491
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Civic ep3

    EP3 Type R

    U can get hard race ones from jdmyard. F7 is the bomb though ! Make sure u get ep3 ones ..as una91 said, diff bolt pattern from dc5.

  4. #16492
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Melbourne SouthEast
    Car:
    EP3R
    anyone here done k20/k24 with there ep3? im looking of doing a kfrank

  5. #16493
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Melbourne SouthEast
    Car:
    EP3R
    or working the k20 motor instead of kfrank less costly and more reliable?

  6. #16494
    Quote Originally Posted by im_visvim View Post
    Red te37 on EP3

    What do you guys think?

    oh btw does anyone know any good power coat-er in VIC?
    Have heard good things about GD Sandblasting & Powder Coating in east side melb, think around $80 per wheel.

  7. #16495
    Quote Originally Posted by pengypengy View Post
    or working the k20 motor instead of kfrank less costly and more reliable?
    Better off going k24 then doing internals. Internals can come later after k24.

  8. #16496
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Quote Originally Posted by DRMZON View Post
    Better off going k24 then doing internals. Internals can come later after k24.
    ...

    Better of buying K24 on the side and building bottom end. Once bottom end ready, pull out the k20 service head, Supertech combo wombo + cams.

    Install and tune.

  9. #16497
    Quote Originally Posted by amant02 View Post
    ...

    Better of buying K24 on the side and building bottom end. Once bottom end ready, pull out the k20 service head, Supertech combo wombo + cams.

    Install and tune.
    Well mate that's your opinion.
    Money wise going k24 is cheaper. I'm sure if you take that into account the k24 would be a better option. How much do 2.4 blocks go for? I've seen good ones go for around the 1k mark even cheaper.

  10. #16498
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Quote Originally Posted by DRMZON View Post
    Well mate that's your opinion.
    Money wise going k24 is cheaper. I'm sure if you take that into account the k24 would be a better option. How much do 2.4 blocks go for? I've seen good ones go for around the 1k mark even cheaper.
    You confuse me.

    My way is the cheapest, least down time of him not having a car.

    Do it once, do it right.

    You buy k24 block, rebuild it - w/e that maybe. OEM wit just new rings, new oil/water, bearings etc etc all the up to rods high comp pistons.

    Once your k24 block is ready, you remove your k20. Take the head apart and get it serviced.

    Then install the head on the k24 block and install into your car.

    If your talking about straight swap k20a for a K24a3. Then I think your confused yourself. Cos that's not worth the money or effort.

    They both make 147kW, k24 makes more tq, but k20 has true vtec + 50deg VTC. I know which one I'd stay with.

  11. #16499
    Quote Originally Posted by amant02 View Post
    You confuse me.

    My way is the cheapest, least down time of him not having a car.

    Do it once, do it right.

    You buy k24 block, rebuild it - w/e that maybe. OEM wit just new rings, new oil/water, bearings etc etc all the up to rods high comp pistons.

    Once your k24 block is ready, you remove your k20. Take the head apart and get it serviced.

    Then install the head on the k24 block and install into your car.

    If your talking about straight swap k20a for a K24a3. Then I think your confused yourself. Cos that's not worth the money or effort.

    They both make 147kW, k24 makes more tq, but k20 has true vtec + 50deg VTC. I know which one I'd stay with.
    once again your opinion. And I respect it.

  12. #16500
    Quote Originally Posted by amant02 View Post
    You confuse me.

    My way is the cheapest, least down time of him not having a car.

    Do it once, do it right.

    You buy k24 block, rebuild it - w/e that maybe. OEM wit just new rings, new oil/water, bearings etc etc all the up to rods high comp pistons.

    Once your k24 block is ready, you remove your k20. Take the head apart and get it serviced.

    Then install the head on the k24 block and install into your car.

    If your talking about straight swap k20a for a K24a3. Then I think your confused yourself. Cos that's not worth the money or effort.

    They both make 147kW, k24 makes more tq, but k20 has true vtec + 50deg VTC. I know which one I'd stay with.
    I will agree with you on building a bottom end in the side and doing it right once. Most people don't usually want todo that and wait and build over time. Putting a k24 block is easiest way to make very good gains quickly. But once again that's my opinion.

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