Quote Originally Posted by hondapop View Post
Bleeding needs to be done after any emptying of the coolant from the system. What I omitted to mention is that the engine needs to be brought up to sufficient temperature that the thermostat opens, so that coolant is actually able to flow and move any air-lock up to the bleeder's position. While it's closed, there's minimal coolant movement. To make this easier for myself (not absolutely necessary), I made up a little tool out of a 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket, which I drilled a 6mm hole in, attached to a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle, so I could keep this in place on the nipple while doing this.

Don't replace the coolant with an anti-corrosive one until you've made sure that it's not overheating. See how it goes for the moment, you may have got the air-lock out with that release you heard. Seeing there was rusty water came out before though, it will still need a good flush through anyway. It's a bit of a drawn out process if the coolant's been allowed to become contaminated, requiring removal of the radiator and flushing it and the block independently to do a good job, but make sure the engine is cool when you do it. Never put cold coolant or water directly into a hot engine.
Thanks for the info. Luckily the system was warm (not hot - not cold).
I have not replaced anything yet. I will wait until I know the problem is fixed. I took it for a short drive up a hill behind my house today. It performed well and did not overheat. I will make longer drives here and there and see how it goes
I have not before - but why is it bad to put cold coolant or water into a hot engine ?

Thank you again for your help


Quote Originally Posted by Jasemas View Post
Did you install the thermostat the right way?
Did you use a Dayco one?
Yeah a Dayco one. I installed it correctly