I run Ti's on my previous race car, not a honda thou, a pushrod engine. I never had issues with Ti and i was running crazy spring rates with a solid cam. Did they make a difference coming from steel retainers and locks? yes! the Ti retainers and locks gave me about 500rpm more, power was negligible and not that I cared but I could tell it was better.

As you know the valve and spring spin. If the spring is matched and can hold the valve at whatever RPM you're running then I seen no problem with the Ti retainers. After a season I pulled the motor apart and both the retainers and locks (was using 8 degree Comp Cams Ti retainers and locks) were like new. Barely any fretting on the underside of the retainer where it touches the spring (comp cams dual valve springs + spring damper). The springs were Comp Cams CCA-977-16 which have a spring rate of 441 lbs./in. with .612 lift, now the honda has 50 pounds on the seat and a max lift of .453 at which point the total pressure is at 150 pounds. Also the honda valve weight is noting compared to 1.92" valve! I would not hesitate to use Ti retainers and locks on a B series at all.

To be hones if you use a good brand Ti retainers and locks (Skunk is cheap chinese shit imho) my guess is 50.000 or more can be safely had before a teardown and check. That's 2 years of driving.

Keep in mind that you gain no power from using Ti retainers or locks. It just locates the valve better and helps control the spring better. If you say use a sodium filled valve which is say 10 grams lighter than stock, and use Ti retainers and locks which are say 3 grams lighter than stock then you can safely go from a 150pound spring to a 130 pound spring, this will not net you any more RPM but will make a few HP more due to less parasitic loss in the valve train.

The good thing with Ti locks and retainers is that if your valve sprigs are flogged out then the weight saving might just give them another 2-3 years of life but valve springs are cheap anyway.

Imho spend the money on coke a hookers.