20N.m does not sound tight enough, at that tension it will fall out. You need to be doing it up to about 180N.m
I would usually do them up with a good impact gun with a good air compressor
That's what I was thinking. Although if I torque the bolt to 20 nm then turn the bolt 90 degrees will this be the same thing as 180 N.m ? I guess I could always just use a torque wrench !
I would say not. 90deg it not mentioned in the manual and you cannot be certain you reached 180N.m or my have over tensioned the bold
proper way it to use the pulley lock tool and a torque wrench, failing that do it up with a good rattle gun. Always lightly oil the back of the washer on the nut.
Good work. I would have suggested a flat head punch to punch the remaining bolt then use flat head screwdriver to turn it. But never mind. Job is done.
Turn of nut method is far superior to just torque alone. It gives much more accurate preloaded in the bolt. Torque alone is extremely inaccurate but easy to implement. Whenever a design has problems with fatigue in bolts we usually modify the process before redesigning the bolted joint (hydra nuts, supernuts, etc)
If a manual tells you to tighten it to 20nm + quarter turn then going back to a torque value is a step backwards. Having said that I haven't seen that process on too many bolts on cars.
Turn of nut method is far superior to just torque alone. It gives much more accurate preloaded in the bolt. Torque alone is extremely inaccurate but easy to implement. Whenever a design has problems with fatigue in bolts we usually modify the process before redesigning the bolted joint (hydra nuts, supernuts, etc)
If a manual tells you to tighten it to 20nm + quarter turn then going back to a torque value is a step backwards. Having said that I haven't seen that process on too many bolts on cars.
Yeh - the manual says 20 N.m + 90 degrees, which goes against anything that anyone is telling me. The problem with the manual is that it's not actually for a D16Y4 engine. Its for D16Y5, 6,7 and 8. I called Honda and asked them for a manual for my specific engine but its out of print they tell me. So i'm probably going to torque to 200 N.m because that's the safe option.
I'll torque to 20 N.m first and mark the bolt to see how far away I am from 90 degrees. Will report back here. Hopefully I'll get it done tonight or tomorrow eve.
I'm guessing I over torqued it ? I was taking the timing belt covers off to try and find an oil leak (I thought it was the crank seal - it wasn't). And I put the balancer back on and under torqued it. So the balancer became loose and chewed up the placement pin/key and wore out the inside of the harmonic balancer. So I bought a new balancer and attached it using a huge breaker bar. Maybe I over torqued because I don't have a torque wrench ? I won't make the same mistake again.
The bolt actually fell off when I was driving home and I was lucky to be able to get the car towed into my garage for $130.
I would say not. 90deg it not mentioned in the manual and you cannot be certain you reached 180N.m or my have over tensioned the bold
proper way it to use the pulley lock tool and a torque wrench, failing that do it up with a good rattle gun. Always lightly oil the back of the washer on the nut.
Have u got a manual for a D16Y4 ? Cause I called Honda and they said its out of print. The manual I have is for D16Y5, 6, 7 and 8.
Honda manuals are available for download. Just need to find them.
We're you using a 4 meter bar to tighten?
I've downloaded a few manuals for 96-00 Honda civics and none of them mention the D16Y4. I think its because this engine is for Australia only ?
Yes I used a large bar to tighten.
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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
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