Jdm Ecu

[spardikis]

Hey guys.. im sure i have read about this before here on oz honda but could'nt find the thread for the love of me.... Anyways the main difference in performance between AUSDM and JDM DC2R's is how they are tuned right... Is that engine tuning/setup or computer tuning, As i have both a 2000 AUDM DC2R ecu and a JDM one.. they both run in my Brothers DC2R fine but does anyone actually know if the JDM ecu will give him more power?? which one should he run...

[spardikis]

anyone?

[Chi]

Stick with the AUDM.

Dont think the JDM one will give him more power.

Its the pistons and internals that make teh JDM dc2r more powerful than teh AUDM.

Regardless of which ecu, if its for a engine with aftermarket internals and mods, u still need a aftermarket ecu to get it running smooth or @ full potential.

[Civic Type R]

ok seems i will have to do another 'repost'

here is the dyno test comparing the 3 ECU's i had.
1. Mugen N1 Race ECU - Blue line
2. JDM 98 ITR ECU - green line
3. Civic VTiR ECU - red line

Its also worth looking at the A/F ratios too

[VT3C]

looks to me that the stock EK4 ECU does the best job with the more linear power curve and when it hits it's earlier rev-limit it is making similar power to it's 'rivals'.

just shows how the OEM ECU is able to adapt well to mods.. the P2T is much better than the JDM ITR one in terms of a linear power curve.. and the ITR ECU has a better top-end than the MUGEN item.. Mugen ECU obviously set-up for mid-range pull on the track.

very interesting !! would be interesting to see the same comparo of the JDM ITR ECU and the MUGEN item on a stock AUS ITR...

[spardikis]

yeah i guess we could just throw the R on the dyno and try both ecu's...

[BLKCRX]

Remember guys all the above ECU’s have both long term and short term o2 adjustment values that are set by the ECU. You will find if you did 10 back to back run’s of each ECU the air fuel ratio would change quite a bit.. doing back to back run’s and not giving time for the ecu to adapt to its clement and fuel conditions is kinda pointless data.

To me the differences between all those ecu’s are almost “zero” the difference seen on the dyno are just environmental variances effecting the power slight,

Regards James

[Civic Type R]

JAmes, what do u mean ?

How can we test each ecu program on a car's setup then ?

[VT3C]

To me the differences between all those ecu’s are almost “zero” the difference seen on the dyno are just environmental variances effecting the power slight,

whoa..

I sure wont be getting you to tune my car then !!!!!

[[stealth]]

lots of fluctuations in those A/F ratios....

[BLKCRX]

The air fuel values in the above dyno sheet are very typical of a Honda computer that has just been reset. The air fuel ratio are very erratic due to the ECU just being reset.
This is absolutely what happens when you plug up a new ECU, and surprise surprise they run lean ! and atypically will make more power.

If you analyses the above graph you will see very little gain between 42KPH and78KPH, and then again between 90KPH and 120KPH The only difference is midrange which is very clear the vtec cross over point is “different” throughout the middle of the power. But none of these ECU’s scream out to be any better, especially in the ways the test was conducted.

The other typical traits you can see if the typical compensation, the Green blue line was “run number 3” the green line was run number 4 and the red line was run number 6. Now I’m assuming the engine was “not” equalized for engine temperature and heat sock between each run, I know the way the Honda computer compensates for temperatures and it will almost always typically run leaner when colder.

The problem with the above tests is its very hard to “control environmental and heat conditions when doing back to back” you simply can’t just plug up a ECU and do one run, and then expect to measure differences, the engine will be “a different temperature” and the ECU will be trying to establish its conditions.

The correct way to test each ECU is to strap the car on the dyno, and leave the car sit there over nite, then in the morning plug up the 1st ECU and warm the car up by driving it on the dyno using a specific warm up sequence. Once the engine temperatures and everything is stable, do 3 full throttle run’s then drive normally again then ramp the car
This last ramp should be your reading. Then power down the car, and leave it over night strapped onto the dyno in 100% the same way. The following day with the car still on the dyno you test the 2nd ECU in the same manner following the same procedure, and again the same on the third day. And even then you can’t control for humidity, oxygen content in the air, and intake temperature, so blah in summary no real honest conclusion can be made from the above data.

Regards James

[ProECU]

whoa..

I sure wont be getting you to tune my car then !!!!!

heheh James, thats definately NOT ECU trimming !