Perth peeps.....

[furiou5]

best thing to do is get a definite quote before you buy an eg and then they tell you its a lot more than you expected

[SINISTR]

a Written Quote! yes

[HyperZ]

Is the chasis of an EK4 any different to an EK1? Handling characteristics wise... Besides the obvious differences in springs, shocks strut and sway bars. Anyone know anything about the RED EK4 that's been on sale for yonks now? Asking price 14K 174Kms travelled, is it worth checking out? Wonder why it's taking so long to sell considering its the only civic VTIR available on the market right now.

Pretty sure the EK4 chassis is stronger than the EK1... look at the welds and you will see the difference... I was thinking of having a look at the red EK4 but i heard its changed quite a few hands and even the current owner...young lady... isnt too sure of its service history, given the high kms... i decided not to waste her time... feel free to let us know if u do have a look it at

[HyperZ]

As Bede said - there are 'thrashed' examples of each car so you're risking buying a lemon, then again - sometimes you can buy a lemon car, a lemon motor and have a lemon swap done - so you end up with a lemon tree with lots of little lemon parts everywhere.

Couldnt have put it any better!

[HyperZ]

There is also an EK4 up @ a dealer in Wangara going for 14k last time i heard... not sure of its condition but it may be worthwhile taking a drive up to have a look at it too... It had chrome wheels if you are into that kinda *bling*...

[HyperZ]

Off topic, hows your EK9 coming along Furiou5?

[furiou5]

sent my letter of to the govo last week, still waiting for the response, but my importer recons it should be ok to come in one piece.

In singapore atm, car should arrive mid next month fingers crossed

oh by the way on the topic of quotes, make sure they have the parts available, there's no point saying they normally do the swap for a certain price if they dont have the parts, sometimes when they do get their hands on the half cut the price may be higher and once again ur stuck with a bigger price for the swap.

im not bashing any perth workshops, but its comon sense that the price of the swap can vary according to available parts

[na]

buy my ek4!!

[SlobberGoat]

Buy a clean car, and do/organise the swap yourself.
Because the experience learned along the way makes it well worth it.

[eg_08_wa]

doshbtek if u can get that price then pm me i know a lot of pplz that will want to do a conversion even if the price is 4k..my fren did it about about 2months ago and he traded his old d16y8 in 4 the b18c and it still cost him 4.5k.
i hardly doubt u can get it done 4 3.2k but then again correct me if im wrong but if u can get it done 4 3.2k ill pay u 4k to get my car converted

[VT3C]

ohh man... the whole problem in Perth with 'tuner' workshops is INCONSISTENCY and the fact that Honda's arent viable therefore nobody knows them too well with the exception of Honbits, but they have moved away from swaps and mainly concerntrate on spare parts as their core business stream.

The EK with B18C is a sedan with 17" (Bronze) ROTA/Mugen Style Rims, not sure what the suspension setup is, but it's fkn low.. has nice exhaust etc.. is Deep Forrest Green.

The EG with the B18C you drove was one of the ones I had mentioned. He was at Drag-Wars when I was racing when I first did my swap and was over a second behind me.. so not sure why so slow, but the sedans are pretty heavy..

Personally am not a fan of the B18C (non type R) due to some characteristics.. some that u mentioned like the un-pronounced VTEC crossover etc are standard to the B18C.

IT was designed for low and mid-range torque with the added VTEC for some top end.. the intake manifold is totally different to all other B-series.. with the dual-tract intake runners operated by a butterfly valve.. is designed to optimise low-down power and mid range flexibility. the VTEC point is set lower with this tuning on the B18C usually about 4500 and is almost inaudible untill the secondary butterfly opens some 1000RPM later however there is less 'kick' in the change. this is actually GOOD because the ultimate tune would be a perfectly linear power curve.. the B18C through it's 2 stage intake manifold, increased displacement (over B16A) and use of Variable Valve timing (VTEC), is able to have a very linear power curve as a result.

to compare to my JDM B16A (which switches VTEC at 5800RPM and rev-cut at 8500) with an EXTREMELY pronnounced audible change and a fairly noticible spike in power. However the B16A has the same or slightly less low down torque than a D-series.. but my top end has allowed me to chop VTiR integras with similar mods as the B18C2 has a weaker top-end.

Plus the B16A has complete interchangability with Type R B18C in terms of parts.. the DC2 Integra Chassis is based on the EG chassis and all Integra parts bolt on directly to the EG. Hardly anything from an integra will swap to an EK chassis easilly.

The EG chassis is slightly lighter than the EK version accross the lineup, and in my opinion, the EG5 (Si or VTi) is the best candidate for a swap as it has 4-wheel disc brakes, stabilizer bars, all electrics, VTi wired for VTEC and only needs minor wiring changes.. the Si is older (late 91-early 93) and comes with the 'ZC' DOHC and the VTi (mid 93-late 95) had the SOHC VTEC but also has an electric moonroof and 95 models have ABS and Airbags.

also a thing to consider is that an engine must be of the same year of manufacture or newer than the chassis that it is installed.. so a 99 CXi would have to have a 99-01 motor to be legal.. is VERY hard and expensive to get these motors.. an 92 EG can have a 92-01 motor installed.. and is much cheaper to get a 92-95 front-cut than an EK DOHC VTEC or late model integra.

In my opinion, you shouldnt pay more than $2500 for a good condition EG front-cut and $3500 for a good condition DC front cut.. (excluding type R).

What I would reccomend is:

1. EG5 with B16A swap plus type R cams etc or aftermarket to come close to B18C-R spec.

2. EG5 with B18B (non VTEC = cheap) then go fourth to 'LS-VTEC' with a B16A head, or boost or BOTH.

I think if you do a lot of the work yourself or by mates and you could get an 92 Si for ~6000 and then a B16A front cut for $2500 and that leaves $1500 for labour and misc parts which would be cutting it fine.. i'd say $12,000 could do you a swapsies but thats anywhere from one-week to 6 months with your car off the road.

p.s. allthough HAS been done by many, I dont reccomend doing a swap in a GL/Breeze that has carbys because it will make life hard when you have to do extra things like fuel lines, fuel pumps, and carby-to-PGMFI wiring would be a nightmare. is always best to keep everything as simple as possible.

[VT3C]

man am thinking of setting up shop to do swaps HAHAH unqualified mechanic but know most the ins-and-outs of B-series to civic swaps HAHHAHA.

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