[Euro] (10000 service) syn oil not recommended

[GEN46L]

. putting in synthetic oil and feeling a horsepower gain is a purley placebo effect - your brain trying to justfiy the extra $25-$40 u have just blown...

That can be a problem for some people too but not necessarily so.
My PENNZOIL Supplier gave me 5 litres of 5W50 100% Full Synthetic to try and there is a noticeable difference in power, albeit only slight. I won't use anything else in my own car now.
With the Combination of using 100% Synthetic Oil, NGK Iridium Spark Plugs, K & N Air Filter, Shell Optimax & Wynns Octane Booster, you'd be surprised at the extra little gains I got. I also done a complete Auto Fluid Exchange with my Wynns Transerve II Machine using Honda ZF1 ATF. I also Cleaned the Throttle Body, Intake Manifold, Cleaned the Fuel Injectors and De-Carbonised the Engine with my Wynns Enviro-Purge Machine.
For a 14 Year Old F22A with over 215,000 km on it she certainly has got a bit of go in her. The acceleration feels quite crisp. Even the Kickdown Acceleration is impressive for a relatively Stock Engine.
My mate, who owns a 90 CB7 with a H22A Auto, was quite surprised at the Take off Acceleration it has. He told me it felt quicker than his H22A.
So imagine what these little goodies would do for a 2.4L I-VTEC Engine.

[aaronng]

Got a quick Q GEN46L, when you changed your plugs to NGK Iridium, weren't the stock ones already Iridium??? They are meant to be either Denso or NGK branded.

[GEN46L]

Just a little off topic stuff, but I'd like to remind everyone to let your engine warm up a bit for 30-60 seconds before taking off, and also to keep it to light throttle until the needle reaches near the middle mark. Also, service your car on schedule and use the proper 10w-30 oil for the Euro (0w, 5w and 40 oil is fine too).

In my carpark, I was taking stuff out of my boot. Parked 2 cars away was a silver Euro. Saw the lady owner get in and start the car. First thing that came to mind was that the engine sound was weird. It was like the sound of an old camry! She then proceeded to drive out, and damn, it sounded louder than the usual auto trans Euro (which is virtually silent except for the transmission noise). She drove past and I could see quite a bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. I thought it was just steam as it is winter and all. But then I noticed the smell. It smelled sweet. It was not a typical exhaust smoke smell. It was not the smell of the cat convertor working. It was a very very odd and sweetly sickening smell.....

That engine was stuffed.

Dead right aaronng, Just jumping in and taking off would have to be the quickest way of stuffing an engine up. That's where 90% of Engine wear occurs. Funny thing they are the first ones to complain when the engine blows up before it's time.
I always recommend to my customers to Warm the Engine up before Driving Off. Even an extra five minutes in the morning can make all the difference.
I usually wait until I see the Temp Needle rise before taking off, unless it's an emergency or I'm running very late.
It's criminal to see these people abuse there cars like that. How could they do that to a EURO.

[GEN46L]

Got a quick Q GEN46L, when you changed your plugs to NGK Iridium, weren't the stock ones already Iridium??? They are meant to be either Denso or NGK branded.

Unfortunately I'm not privelidged enough yet to own a EURO. I've still got the Old 92 Gen4 F22A. It had plain old NGK ZFR V-Groove's in it.

[aaronng]

Unfortunately I'm not privelidged enough yet to own a EURO. I've still got the Old 92 Gen4 F22A. It had plain old NGK ZFR V-Groove's in it.

Doh'! My bad....

BTW, I just changed the fuel filter off our 94 F22A. There was heaps of gel in it. Before, the car would not pull in 4th gear at 120km/h (it is an auto). Now with the new filter, it pulls even above 130! This is without downshifting. Pretty good considering the filter only cost $10.

BTW, before people flame me for speeding, this was not in Australia.

[GEN46L]

Doh'! My bad....

BTW, I just changed the fuel filter off our 94 F22A. There was heaps of gel in it. Before, the car would not pull in 4th gear at 120km/h (it is an auto). Now with the new filter, it pulls even above 130! This is without downshifting. Pretty good considering the filter only cost $10.

BTW, before people flame me for speeding, this was not in Australia.

Sounds like a problem with Water Ingress or Condensation in the Tank.
Cars in Colder climates are more at risk.
The condensation that forms on the roof of the fuel tank drips into the Fuel and floats to the bottom because it is heavier than fuel. Over time these droplets build up and are picked up by the fuel pump and end up clogging the fuel filter. The breakdown of water molecules can also elevate the sulphur content when mixed with the fuel and can be damaging to engine components over time. The excess sulphur builds up a varnish in the fuel lines, rails & fuel injectors. This results in loss of power as well. Regular Maintenance of the Fuel Injection System will remedy the problems.
The gel is a mixture of the water & fuel molecules which can also cause blockages. It doesn't hurt to tip a bottle of Wynns Fuel System Cleaner in every 5 tank fulls during winter to help disipate the water and clean the varnish off. The good old Metho Trick works a treat too.

[hotout]

Dead right aaronng, Just jumping in and taking off would have to be the quickest way of stuffing an engine up. That's where 90% of Engine wear occurs. Funny thing they are the first ones to complain when the engine blows up before it's time.
I always recommend to my customers to Warm the Engine up before Driving Off. Even an extra five minutes in the morning can make all the difference.
I usually wait until I see the Temp Needle rise before taking off, unless it's an emergency or I'm running very late.

I think people who leave their car running in the morning to 'warm' up aren't too clever.... it's better to warm up the car by taking off straight away and driving gently for a while....your engine oil might be warmed up but heck, your tranny oil sure ain't

[yfin]

I think people who leave their car running in the morning to 'warm' up aren't too clever.... it's better to warm up the car by taking off straight away and driving gently for a while....your engine oil might be warmed up but heck, your tranny oil sure ain't

I am sure the Euro manual says what Aaronng has suggested - 30 seconds to 1 minute (or words to that effect) when the engine is cold. I find the temp needle is well on its way towards the centre in 30 seconds - (the engine warms up very fast).

As for oils - I changed to my own full syn at 10,000kms service. Not once has the dealer complained (and I have tried a few dealers now). Between 10k and 40k the car has only used oil once between servicing - just before the 40k service I noticed the oil was just a fraction under full. Not much, I know - but previously it used nothing between servicing. It must be all the VTEC action when I was in Perth. PerthEuro knows what I am talking about - so many sweet open roads in Perth.

[aaronng]

I think people who leave their car running in the morning to 'warm' up aren't too clever.... it's better to warm up the car by taking off straight away and driving gently for a while....your engine oil might be warmed up but heck, your tranny oil sure ain't

It takes time for the oil to circulate around the galleries in the engine. That's why I suggested 30-60 seconds. After that you can drive off. The engine oil is still cold then, but the oil will at least provide some protection when compared to driving off straight away after starting.

[aaronng]

Sounds like a problem with Water Ingress or Condensation in the Tank.
Cars in Colder climates are more at risk.
The condensation that forms on the roof of the fuel tank drips into the Fuel and floats to the bottom because it is heavier than fuel. Over time these droplets build up and are picked up by the fuel pump and end up clogging the fuel filter. The breakdown of water molecules can also elevate the sulphur content when mixed with the fuel and can be damaging to engine components over time. The excess sulphur builds up a varnish in the fuel lines, rails & fuel injectors. This results in loss of power as well. Regular Maintenance of the Fuel Injection System will remedy the problems.
The gel is a mixture of the water & fuel molecules which can also cause blockages. It doesn't hurt to tip a bottle of Wynns Fuel System Cleaner in every 5 tank fulls during winter to help disipate the water and clean the varnish off. The good old Metho Trick works a treat too.

Great info! However, the car was in Malaysia, so that's at least 30ºC all year round. Granted it was a 13-14 year old car with over 250,000km and still on the original filter!

[coladuna]

Dead right aaronng, Just jumping in and taking off would have to be the quickest way of stuffing an engine up. That's where 90% of Engine wear occurs. Funny thing they are the first ones to complain when the engine blows up before it's time.
I always recommend to my customers to Warm the Engine up before Driving Off. Even an extra five minutes in the morning can make all the difference.
I usually wait until I see the Temp Needle rise before taking off, unless it's an emergency or I'm running very late.
It's criminal to see these people abuse there cars like that. How could they do that to a EURO.

Actually, I read in the manual or somewhere else (can't remember where) that with modern engines, it's actually bad if you warm up the engine by standing idle. Can't confirm if it's correct as I can't remember where I read it.

[coladuna]

I think people who leave their car running in the morning to 'warm' up aren't too clever.... it's better to warm up the car by taking off straight away and driving gently for a while....your engine oil might be warmed up but heck, your tranny oil sure ain't

That's exactly what I read somewhere. It's worse to warm up the car by sitting idle.