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As mentioned in a couple of previous threads I changed to Mobil 1 10w 30 full synthetic oil. The car was put on full synthetic Mobil 1 at about 2k (I was late getting my 1st service). The car now has 75k & is running as good as ever, I did over a thousand km's over the weekend & got about 7.28 litres per 100km for the trip. The engine uses no oil, the oil is always clean at oil change. I have no issue with using a fully synthetic oil. my local dealers FEO oil is blended by Caltex. I think it depends on your state & the dealers choice as to what oil they use at service.
Last edited by Eurotony; 13-06-2006 at 06:28 PM.
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How about if I run a full synthetic oil since 1000Km and then rev it very hard to run in the engine instead of putting in mineral oil and drive it slowly? LOL 
Seriously though, the gearbox and other things cold need running in though. I'm just saying.
But a lot of European cars now run synthetic from the factory. They never said that the engines were run in, but they recommend it anyhow.
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 Originally Posted by Omotesando
How about if I run a full synthetic oil since 1000Km and then rev it very hard to run in the engine instead of putting in mineral oil and drive it slowly? LOL 
Seriously though, the gearbox and other things cold need running in though. I'm just saying.
But a lot of European cars now run synthetic from the factory. They never said that the engines were run in, but they recommend it anyhow.
Hehe, yeah, the engine parts are pretty good and don't need much running in. It's mostly the piston rings which are sensitive to the synthetic oil as well as the gearbox and drivetrain. When running in the engine, you are not wearing the rough spots down, but rather getting the moving parts to match each other. They are pretty smooth from the factory, I've read, because of the improved casting process.
A lot of BMWs that I see also have a noisy engine (almost every E36 and E46 on the road).
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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In the end, I bowed down to popular opinion and chose a semi-synth for my 1000km change. Actually, it's getting done now as I speak (sitting around the corner at Utopia with my laptop whilst Prestige Honda are tinkering with my vehicle). Oil + filter.
Went for Motul 4100 10W-40W with the view of using Motul 8100 or 300V at the 10000km service.
Yet to decide what oil I will use at 5000km.
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If you find that you like 4100 10w-40, then use that at 5000km too. but I think 5000km is such a short interval that even regular mineral oil wouldn't break down by then.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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The dealer put a 5000km service sticker on my car and whilst I'm running the car in, I'll probably get the oil + filter changed anyhow. It's only $45 for Motul 4100 turbolight anyhow from motorquip. $10 for the filter and <$1 for the sump plug (according to the dealer invoice).
That way, I know my car's oil will last from 5000 to 10000km.
No problems with Prestige Honda's service although looking at the fuel economy/trip computer, it's obvious whoever who test drove my car post-service had a bit of fun with it *grins, it's not him who pays for BP ultimate*. It's a good idea to reset the fuel economy/trip computer on the '06 models when you take it in for service... if you notice that fuel economy average 'way up there' you know the apprentice's been a bit heavy on the accelerator :P *I'd do the same too*
Got a smidgen of oil left in the 5L bottle for me. Oh, and I forgot to tell them not to wash my car so a half dozen micro paint scratches *sighs*... my car is sitting outside right now with the meguairs gold-class wax curing on it. And I only waxed it 2 weeks ago!!! So much for Ming protection ... seeing I clean bird crap and wipe tree sap off as soon as I see it (keep a good quality Sheridan face towel in my car).
Still deciding whether I will splurge on 300V or stick with 8100 Motul synthetic for 10000km but I'm 9 months from making that decision.
Price of first service - $55. $45 for the oil. $10 for the labour free filter/sump plug. Will highly recommend Prestige/Melville Honda out of the Perth dealers for servicing. Just remember, remember to tell them to forego the complimentary wash ... I don't buy lambswool mits just so the apprentice and scratch my paint with a dirty towel :$
*edit*
After 1000km service, the car does feel more sprightly. Like it was when I first picked up my car new. Not sure why ... but it was quite sluggish around the 800-1000km mark, especially at higher gears. Much better now.
Last edited by tanalasta; 14-06-2006 at 06:03 PM.
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 Originally Posted by tanalasta
No problems with Prestige Honda's service although looking at the fuel economy/trip computer, it's obvious whoever who test drove my car post-service had a bit of fun with it *grins, it's not him who pays for BP ultimate*. It's a good idea to reset the fuel economy/trip computer on the '06 models when you take it in for service... if you notice that fuel economy average 'way up there' you know the apprentice's been a bit heavy on the accelerator :P *I'd do the same too*
If your fuel economy is way down, it may not be because they leadfooted it around the place....they could have had it sitting idling in the workshop for a while.
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ok, i'm about to do my 30,000km service.
i know the recommended viscosity rating at high/running temperatures is max 40, but i have a bottle of mobil 1 5W-50.
what are your EXPERT opinions on using sae 50 oil? is it too thick at running temperature, or should i be ok to use it instead of a 40?
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look at your manual there is a range of oils you can use.
atm i just stick with 0w or 5W - 40.
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yeh i know, but i've got a bottle of 5w-50 oil that i want to use.....the manual recommends sae 40.
just wanted to see everyone's opinion.
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In my opinion, the 5w-50 is too thick. 40 is the thickest i would go.
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Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2
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 Originally Posted by Crapdaz
and with the cold weather getting around everywhere cold starts wouldn't make 5w50 any better cause it's thick.
???
the viscosity rating at cold temps is 5.....the vis. rating of 50 is for 100deg celcius, so that shouldn't make a difference for cold starts.
am i right?
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