STEP 9:
time to fit the B16A
- the mount on the front of the engine should still be on and tight.
- fit the rear mount to the B16A. ( the one that bolts the motor to the rear cross member that houses the steering rack.) Do not do it up tight.
- fit the B16A in as before like in the test fit.
- do up the two side mounts ( gear box mount and front engine mount ).
- check the back mount, see if it lines up with the mounting holes on the cross member. If it lines up, go ahead and put the two bolts in and bolt it down to the rear cross member, then do up the bolt that goes through the mount.
- if it does not line up, you have to loosen the metal braket from the gearbox, then bolt the back mount to the cross member. then do up the metal braket. ( sounds easy but its not. good luck )
- time to start doing things up.
- start with the heater hoses, the one that goes to the heater tap will fit fine. the one that goes to the engine from the heater core at the firewall willl need to be replaced as it is a bit of a stretch. I used the D16A8 one and cut it down a bit.
- fit the speedo cable to the gearbox, dont forget to pit the gold lock retainer.
- fit the power steering low pressure hose then fit the power steering high pressure hose
- remove the D16A8 clutch cable and replace it with the B16A cable from the EF8/9
- remove the D16A8 accelerator cable and replace it with the B16A cable from the EF8/9
- fit the B16A MAP sensor and fuel regulator cut off solenoid to the firewall.
- fit the EF8/9 brake booster vacuum tube and hose.
- connect the fuel main line and return line . they will reach and line up with out any probs
- connect the D16A8 battery positive lead to the starter motor.
- plug the PGMFI A connector in. then plug in the other two connectors on the RH shock tower.
- plug the PGMFI B connector in on the RH shock tower. also plug in the injector resistor.
- went to fit the radiator and I noticed the tubes where the top and bottom hoses fit on where to small. you can ghetto this with some clamps. but I fit the B16A EF9 radiator. I also had to swap the fans in the fan housings to I didnt have to rewire their connectors. see pic bellow.
the top radiator is from the ED9
- fit the radiator and connect the top and bottom hoses. then connect up the fans.
- fit the battery bracket.
- fit the intake pipe and air cleaner
- fit the earth lead from the gearbox to chassis, and roccer cover to body.
- fit anything else that needs to be fitted
time to fit the stuff under the car.
- I went to refit the front cross member. I got played on the AC compressor sitting to low. asfter looking at it for a while I relised it wasnt going to fit so I removed the AC compressor.
you can purchase a bracket that HA SPORT make that lets you use the D series compressor and clears the front cross memeber.
in this situation I will not add the compressor for now untill I get the custome mount for it and then append this DIY with that part.
- Connect the shift linkage to the gearbox. ( see bellow pic )
- I ghetto'd the exhaust a bit to make it sort of seal up, to get the car to an exhaust shop. ( see pic bellow)
- if your going to change the hubs, now is a good time to do them. just a note. you will also need to install the EF8/9 tie rod ends as well as the ED9 ones are to long and you cannot get the toe with in specs.
here is a pic as a comparison. left is ED9 right is EF8/9
- time to fit the drive shafts.
here is a pic of the DA3 shafts with EF9 hubs
pic of the two mid shafts as a comparison.
top one is B16A mid shaft
bottom is a DA9 mid shaft
- remove the B16A mid shaft and fit a DA9 mid shaft
- fit either DA3 or DA6 shafts. fit the shaft that has half splines on the inner CV joint on the RHS. With DA3 shafts I didnt have to remove the seal in the hub as other have recomended. you can if you want. then fit the LH shaft.
bellow is a pic of 3 shafts as a comparison
the top one is from EF9 B16A
middle one is from DA3
bottom is from ZC D16A8
- do up the hubs
- if you changed the hubs then use the EF8/9 brake master cylinder.
- bleed the brakes ( all four wheels )
Time to add fluids
- change the oil filter and drain any oil in the engine. fill the engine with oil.
- fill the gearbox up with MTF
- fill up the cooling system with coolant
- fill up the power steering fluid. use genuine honda power steering fluid.
- make sure your brake fluid is set right
at this stage everything should be in and bolted up, all fluid levels set corectly.
- double check that all your mounts are bolted up tight. make sure the center bolts for all the mounts are done up tight.
- check all your fuel lines are tight.
- make sure all the hub/brakes and drive shaft assembly's are in corectly and bolts are all tight.
- make sure your drain bolts and filler plugs are tight.
now the fun begines. time to wire up the PGMFI
there are a few of ways to wire up a B16A. you can rip your entire dash out and then rip your ED9 loom out and swap it for EF8/9 loom ( see below pic ). thats way to much work
you can also run extra wires from the ecu to the engine bay directly to the sensors. That will work and is less work but can be a bit messy.
also seen people wire up after market ECU's to their convertions
my way is sort of like running wires to the sensors but alot simpler and neater.
I stripped the wiring loom and split it up. I took out the engine bay B connector and poked it through the firewall. This will pretty much be all the wires that need to be run othere than two sheilded wires to the engine bay A connector.
- earlier we splitted the B connector from the main harness and poked it through the firewall. now we wire it up.
- looking at the above pic we have to merg all these wire
use the bellow pic as a guide on identifying the corect wire
NOTE:
- In this DIY I will refer alot to a connector in the engine bay that we will remove from the EF9 B16A loom and add to the D16A8 loom, this connector will always be refered to as "Engine Bay B connector " and will always be blue in colour. the connector that looks the same on the RHS will be called engine bay A connector in RED
- also when ever I refere to a pin in a connector, you look at the connector from the wire side ( back of it ) and the top left is pin 1.
- ECU connectors will be refered as ECU A, ECU B, ECU C connectors in black text.
- the original loom of the AUDM CRX will be called D16A8 loom
- the B16A EF9 wiring loom will be called B16A loom
- On D16A8 harness ( in car )
Unplug from ECU A connector
5 total wires from ECU A connector
Unplug from ECU B connector
1 total wires from ECU B connector
Unplug from ECU C connector
1 total wires from ECU C connector
Plug In
ECU A connector, from B16A B connector Loom to D16A8 ECU A connector
- just plug the wires in from the B16A B connector Loom to D16A8 ECU A connector
Do a continuity test from B connector to ECU A connector as you plug each wire in as a test to make sure all is ok so far.
ECU B connector, from B16A B connector Loom to D16A8 ECU B connector
Do a continuity test from B connector to ECU B connector as you plug each wire in as a test to make sure all is ok so far.
ECU C connector, from B16A B connector Loom to D16A8 ECU C connector
Do a continuity test from B connector to ECU C connector as you plug each wire in as a test to make sure all is ok so far
Now from the B16A B harness you should have no wires left with connectors and 6 cut wires
Need to relocate
On the D16A8 loom we unplug B4 from the ECU B connector. Chop off the B type pin and solder on an A type connector. ( cut off from one of the D16A8 ECU A wires we removed ) Now plug it in to A10
- the above 3 picturs show me cutting an ECU A pin off a wire from the D16A8 loom and then cutting an ECU B/C type pin off and then soldering the ECU A pin onto the ECU B4 wire. then plug it into ECU A10.
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