DIY ED9 ( 88 gen2 CRX ) B16A Engine transplant

[ECU-MAN]

Optional, go into the engine bay, get the connector for the purge control solenoid.
( which now will be fuel press cut off sol ) remove both pins and swap them over, This is solely just to match the colours and has no impact on the operation of the solenoid.












Solder In Cut Wires from B16A B harness

There will be 6 cut wires from the B16A B harness

1= Blk one silver dot ; ground goes to B14

Solder this to ECU A2 blk wire. Tap into it. Do not cut. Wrap it up with electrical tape. Now do a continuity test from B14 to ground.

2= Blk two silver dot; ground for power steering pressure switch

Solder this to ECU A4 blk wire. Tap into it. Do not cut. Wrap it up with electrical tape. Now do a continuity test from power steering pressure switch black wire to ground.


3 and 4= yel/blk; go to main PGMFI relay and ECU.

Solder these two together and to ECU A15 yel/blk wire. Tap into it. Do not cut. Wrap it up with electrical tape. Now do a continuity test from B6 and B7 to ECU A15 and A13. You should get continuity.


You will have two wires left

One Yel/red and a yel

These go to the VSS connector on the B16A loom. We are going to use the VSS in the cluster and it is already wired coz we have a cable Speedo.

Just tape these wires up.

















Now we need to run two shielded wires







Run a shielded twin wire to the engine bay A connector to the ECU. Solder a connector onto each wire. Leave the shield alone in the engine bay.



Plug one into A4 and the other into A8

note:

A4 will have a pin in it. ( old TPS ) I removed it and chopped off the pin and reused it see bellow pic






Get the ECU B pin we cut off ECU B4 and solder that connector onto the wire coming from A8 and plug into ECU B19.

Get a ECU B connector from your B16A loom and solder it onto the other wire and plug it into ECU C8.




At the ECU end get a piece of wire and join the two shields together and join this wire to
ECU A16 brn/blk.

* must use shielded wire and earth at ECU end. Run Wire to the A connector from ECU earth only at ECU end to ECU pin A16


now you will be left with this









the yellow arrows are pointing to the wires from the B16A Bharness. the red circle is the left over wires from the D16A8 loom. we dont need these any more. so I cut off the pins and wrapped the wires up.








the test


make sure all the connectors in the engine bay are all connected. All sensor connectors connected.

plug ECU in

connect the battery . turn IGN to II pos

MIL light in cluster should come on and go out. The fuel pump should prime.

The LED in the ecu should come on and go out.

This indicated the ecu has found all the sensors. (Good start)

Turn OFF the IGN

Now its time to start her up.

Make sure all your fluid levels are up to spec

- coolant
- power steering fluid
- manual gearbox oil
- engine oil
- brake fluid
- fuel



Turn the IGN on to II the Off then On to II then Off

This will prime the fuel system

Then crank. After a few good crankings the engine will fire and run like shit ( coz it hasn’t been started for a couple of years ) give her a few revs and all the sputtering should iron out and it will run fine.

Booyeah, mine started on the 2nd crank and fired right up NO CODES


When it fires let the engine to run for at least 1 min to allow oil to get up to the cams.


Check the ECU for fault codes.



Now we can clean up the ECU wiring

Cut the left over 6 wires from the D16A8 loom . You don’t need them. as mentioned above.


Neatly wrap up all the wiring and add conduit where necessary, reinstall the ECU and ECU Cover.

Your done.


It took me 2 hours to wire it up the above way. Testing and taking notes for this DIY as I went along.


- run the car for a while and make sure you have no coolant leaks or oil leaks and set the ingnition timming once the engine has warmed up.


road test time

if you changed the hubs. GET A WHEEL ALIGNMENT FIRST



take her out for a drive, find a nice 80km zone so you can test the rev range

dont just jump in and drive it hard. Drive it nicely for a few k's to make sure no drive shafts pop out or any other silly problems.

in a safe area and with out breaking the law test VTEC.

when you get back to the workshop ( backyard ) check everything over. All fluid levels and drive train.


the end result








when the AC bracket is ready. Ill take a few pics of that and update this page.


On the road test this baby performed and behaved well its a real pocket rocket now. went hard



I spent more time putting this DIY together than I did working on the car



I would like to thank a few homies for helping out



- Tuen and Ying for their help
- Ying for sourcing the drive shafts
- Steve-O for his input and experience on what need to be done
- Grant for help with a press and ED9 AUDM schematic
- the misses for putting up with the mess in the driveway.





you can download a word doc with the wiring instructions here

any questions or comments are welcome, Just post them here




Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!



No part of this DIY is to be reproduced with out acknowledgment of the site and author it came from, ie me and ozhonda.com. Do not rip parts off and claim them as your own.