-
hey, how do you know which one is positive and negative???????
did you use a mulitmeter?????
-
test light will also work if your trying to test the polarity.
-
Awesome wiretup man. very helpful. thumbsup!
-
-
congrats... you're now blinding all of oncoming traffic, running a color that's reducing light, and running a low quality kit that will need replacement way too soon.
If you want hids that perform like they came oem on the car, last as long, and look right, this is not the way to do it.
-
I just match the positive to positive and negative to negative with out using mulitmeter
NOTE: Red to red, black to black (Look closely in the stock connecter)
Originally Posted by my_honda
hey, how do you know which one is positive and negative???????
did you use a mulitmeter?????
-
Originally Posted by SAWAKITA
I just match the positive to positive and negative to negative with out using mulitmeter
NOTE: Red to red, black to black (Look closely in the stock connecter)
hahaha....i didn't even see that. Thanks man.
-
also note that plugging the ballasts directly into the wiring will cause issues with time. Hid's, while normally pulling less current during use, have a big current spike during ignition. Your stock wires are not designed to handle this, and with time, you'll start having issues with the hids not lighting from imporper power supply, possibly melting wires, and commonly doing damage to the stock headlight switch(something that's very expensive to replace generally).
Power for an hid set up should always be done with a relayed wiring harness with its own fuses, and pulling power for the lights directly from the battery. The stock wiring should be used for nothing more than a signal to trigger the relays.
-
Originally Posted by saxman
also note that plugging the ballasts directly into the wiring will cause issues with time. Hid's, while normally pulling less current during use, have a big current spike during ignition. Your stock wires are not designed to handle this, and with time, you'll start having issues with the hids not lighting from imporper power supply, possibly melting wires, and commonly doing damage to the stock headlight switch(something that's very expensive to replace generally).
Power for an hid set up should always be done with a relayed wiring harness with its own fuses, and pulling power for the lights directly from the battery. The stock wiring should be used for nothing more than a signal to trigger the relays.
Hey man,
I bought my HID kit and it came with a Relay wiring harness. The manual doesn't really explain the install. Any way you can show me how to do install???
It's a H1 kit for a honda prelude. There's some connectors and i think what is a ground wire and a power wire. Don't know how to plug this in.
Some help anyone????
-
basically the relays are generally a 4 prong relay. 12v signal(would be going from your stock headlamp signal wire), a 12v+(power from battery), ground, and 12v out(to the ballast).
the 12v signal and ground are on one circut, the 12v+ and 12v out are on the other.
Can't really help you out much more than that without more info.
-
nice writeup, can you install HID is stock headlight assembly or does it require some projector kind of headlight assembly ???
-
Originally Posted by MIRZ
nice writeup, can you install HID is stock headlight assembly or does it require some projector kind of headlight assembly ???
From what I gathered, there are some cars that have support of aftermarket head lights that come with the projector which is good for a HID kit.
In others which don't (like mine - 98' prelude) you'll can just fit them in, but you wont get as much of a spread of light of a decent cut off compared to the Euros for example.
But, you can always customise your stock headlight and install a projector from a donar car. Some have been quite successfull with this.
My 2c.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|
Bookmarks