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  1. #85
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    2008 Hyundai i30 CRDi
    OK today was hopefully the last day of pulling my car to pieces! i applied ensolite to the centre console inner walls and most importantly the entire floor. as with last time, the hardest part of the process was unclipping the wiring harness from underneath the seat - but once that's done the rest of the process goes remarkably smoothly (much smoother than the doors!)

    for the centre console i put some dynamat and ensolite on the inner walls around where the gearshift is and forward of that; honda had put some (pathetic) sound absorbing foam material here so i figured they must have recognised the transmission as the source of at least some noise, so i went into overkill mode:



    i then proceeded to attack the floor, i did this by taping double-stick tape to the floor first and then peeling it off bit by bit as i lay the ensolite down on top of it. the purpose of the tape is to prevent the ensolite from moving around too much; unlike the dynamat, the ensolite does not require full adhesion for maximum effect (as it's purpose is to help absorb airborne soundwaves):





    thankfully, the above only took half a day (including cleanup) as i had planned the necessary equipment and step-by-step instructions beforehand. the next steps involve tarring the front wheel wells and looking further into getting quiet tyres!
    Last edited by chylld; 29-07-2006 at 04:22 PM.

  2. #86
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    97 VTiR Prelude
    Quote Originally Posted by JaCe
    $200 for the Dynomat + Installation
    Where did you source it from for so cheap?? Everywhere I go its $300 for a single extreme pack...NOT including installation.

    No one is willing to give a clear quote for installation either, but they all say its time consuming...so say if it takes them like 4 - 5 hrs (since they are professionals)...thats an extra $250 or so by my estimates.

    Are you happy with the installation they did as well?

  3. #87
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    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    2008 Hyundai i30 CRDi
    Quote Originally Posted by Ru$kI
    Where did you source it from for so cheap?? Everywhere I go its $300 for a single extreme pack...NOT including installation.

    No one is willing to give a clear quote for installation either, but they all say its time consuming...so say if it takes them like 4 - 5 hrs (since they are professionals)...thats an extra $250 or so by my estimates.
    JaCe would have to clarify, but i think this is for dynamat + installation in the front doors only. a typical front door install only takes about 1 sheet of dynamat (in the size that the bulk pack comes in) so my guess is that jace is paying $200 for 2 sheets, at ~$22 a sheet (the price i paid) he's paying ~$156 for labour.

    a professional wouldn't take 4-5 hours (i know you're only using this figure as an example) - my guess would be about 2 hours per door max.

  4. #88
    I used a material call Insuflex (looks similar to foam you are using, and there is another similar product called superlon) to dampen my previous car. However I cant seem to find any shop that sells these stuffs here.

    For the Insuflex, there are 3 type of thickness, the thin 3mm, med 5mm and thick about 10mm or more. I used the thick for the floor of the car. Just bought 2 rolls, one roll for each side but didnt DE or stick them cause after you set the carpet back, it will be held to its place.

    For the door, I use DE. The door panel I spary it with Cascade Quietkote, DE the speaker area and the lower part, and add a layer of the thin Insuflex.

    Now I got a civic coupe and its very very very noisy....... Will slowly collect all the material needed before starting on it.

  5. #89
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    97 VTiR Prelude
    Quote Originally Posted by chylld
    JaCe would have to clarify, but i think this is for dynamat + installation in the front doors only. a typical front door install only takes about 1 sheet of dynamat (in the size that the bulk pack comes in) so my guess is that jace is paying $200 for 2 sheets, at ~$22 a sheet (the price i paid) he's paying ~$156 for labour.

    a professional wouldn't take 4-5 hours (i know you're only using this figure as an example) - my guess would be about 2 hours per door max.
    ahh...yea that seems more in the price range i've been quoted. As far as hours...I'm gonna sound deaden all 4 doors, boot, and rear shelf / panel....how many hours do u think a professional will take with that? since i'm weighing up whether its worth just purchasing the Dynamat and doing it all myself

  6. #90
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    Feb 2005
    Location
    KiramtoKoonet
    Car:
    gogomobile
    Looks like you have taken this to the next level.

    Did you do anymore reasearch into led sheeting ?

  7. #91
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    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    2008 Hyundai i30 CRDi
    Ru$kI: I would definitely recommend you do it yourself. as soon as you find some shop manuals for your car, it'll be a cakewalk. you will save a LOT of money, and you'll know exactly what has been done... and it's pretty hard to stuff up really

    just don't get too free with saying "I'm gonna sound deaden all 4 doors" - that could mean anything from a simple 1 layer dynamat on inner skin job, to a more thorough 3 layers dynamat, 4 layers ensolite on outer and inner skin with access hole reinforcement job (like mine).

    VTECACCORD: not 100% sure who/what you're addressing, but if you mean my adventure with the ensolite then yes i would consider it the next level (mainly because it makes little sense to add more dynamat now)

    i researched into lead sheeting and found some at bunnings, but i felt it was too heavy and thick to be worth the effort - also i'd have to buy some tools to hammer it into shape, and given that the floor actually isn't flat (carpet padding makes up for that) then it would have been a nightmare to get installed properly.

  8. #92
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    97 VTiR Prelude
    i was thinking doing inner and outer skin for the front doors...so 2 sheets on each front door. I'll do 1 sheet on each of the rear doors, and the rest (3 sheets + any excesses material that was cut from other sheets) on the boot & rear shelf (which covers the 6x9 speakers)

    Do u think that's reasonable?

  9. #93
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    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    2008 Hyundai i30 CRDi
    sorry for the late reply... i borked my email trying to setup a fancy name server / domain forward

    for the front doors, 2 sheets sounds reasonable yes. i'm trying to remember how a bulk pack sheet size relates to the door skin size... but it should be roughly 1:1. so yes 2 sheets should be fine

    the rear doors are much smaller, 1 sheet should be enough to do the whole inner skin + some of the outer skin. the outer skin on my civic at least is ridiculously resonant when undamped, so it was very well worth doing.

    the boot can take quite a few sheets of dynamat, i reckon i used about 4 sheets on the boot alone - but if you don't have that much leftover, just target the flat and resonant areas, and especially the rear wheel wells if you can get to em.

  10. #94
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    97 VTiR Prelude
    Hmm...what if I dont use any Dynamat on the rear doors...and instead use 5 sheets on the boot / shelf? Do you reckon sound deadening rear doors makes alota difference (especially since there are no speakers in them as they're on the rear shelf)

  11. #95
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    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Car:
    2008 Hyundai i30 CRDi
    Quote Originally Posted by Ru$kI
    Hmm...what if I dont use any Dynamat on the rear doors...and instead use 5 sheets on the boot / shelf? Do you reckon sound deadening rear doors makes alota difference (especially since there are no speakers in them as they're on the rear shelf)
    if you have a sub, i'd definitely put more dynamat in the boot than the rear doors. i chose to dynamat the rear doors quite heavily because my main objective was to reduce road noise; but apart from doing that it won't help with SQ very much, if at all

  12. #96
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    Jan 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    97 VTiR Prelude
    yep...i got a sub in the boot (Alpine 12" Type S, powered by an Alpine mono block amp), and its causing some rattle...do u think one layer of dynamat all round the boot is enough to stop the rattle?

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