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  1. #25
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    hey dude! thanks for reply as well,

    yeh i hear petrol pumping im pretty sure the fuel pump isnt a problem. basically removed the injectors (i didnt) someone else did, and petrol poured out

    aiight ill do a test right on the injectors, meaning i might need to cut it or open the wire? wires in the engine bay right.

    would you know what wire it would be? or am i looking for a wire which is identical on all 4 injectors
    Last edited by XP02ED; 13-09-2006 at 10:45 PM.

  2. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by XP02ED
    hey dude! thanks for reply as well,

    yeh i hear petrol pumping im pretty sure the fuel pump isnt a problem. basically removed the injectors (i didnt) someone else did, and petrol poured out

    aiight ill do a test right on the injectors, meaning i might need to cut it or open the wire? wires in the engine bay right.

    would you know what wire it would be? or am i looking for a wire which is identical on all 4 injectors
    Just unclip the plugs from the injectors & test the pins.

    Test from pin attached to the same colour wire that appears on all 4 plugs(most likely yellow with black stripe) to ground.Should be 12V with the ignition turned on.

  3. #27
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    hmmm unclip it? how do ya do that! never done it before! << ill try it tmz morning!

    so im gna be looking for a wire most likely yelo and black which connects from the ECU to injectors? is that what ya mean!

    so what i should be doing >

    turn car on (dont ignitiate)
    unplug clips
    test positive wire for each injector to see if the lines active!

    correct me if im wrong please!
    Last edited by XP02ED; 14-09-2006 at 01:55 AM.

  4. #28
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    Pull the little wire clip off the injector plug,careful they fly off into places that are very hard to find,& u can then pull the plug from the injector.

    The "most likely" yellow/black wires dont go to the ecu,they go to the main relay.They are the 12V power source for the injectors.

    Yes turn ignition on,no need to start engine,well u couldnt anyway with no injectors,Put one probe of the meter on the yell/blk pin inside the plug & the other probe on a good ground(bit of shiny metal on the engine block somewhere or batt neg terminal) & see if it reads 12V or light on your tester lights up,etc.
    Repeat for all 4 injectors to make sure.

    If the result is good,turn ignition off,then disconnect plug from ecu(make sure u do this first),then bridge 2 pins of injector plug togethor with a bit of wire,turn ignition on again & see if u got 12V at the 4 wires at the ecu u mentioned earlier.Disconnect bridges in the injector plugs before u put plug back into ecu.This will tell u if the wires are broken or not.
    Last edited by CRXer; 14-09-2006 at 02:13 AM.

  5. #29
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    ooo thanks for the details description, i got no time during the week to test this, will do this on weekend and let you know what happened.

    BTW i check out what ECU i have i got a p08 on the serial so im guessing its a p08...

    so just to be clear

    injectors > main relay > ECU?

    is that the wiring diagram? i knoe the colour of the wire changes each section it goes to. ill have to follow the wire but it may be hard with all the harnesse's covering it up and i guess i dont wna cut anything up, but if worste comes to worste ill need to!

  6. #30
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    Yes p08 seems right for the D15.

    injectors > main relay > ECU?
    I dont know what u mean by this?
    The wires dont flow this way if thats what your asking.
    Injectors get there power supply from a pwer supply which also feeds into the main relay.The wire going to the injectors usually taps off from a pin on the main relay before it goes into the relay.(the yell/blk wire).
    The 4 different coloured wires at the injectors go directly back to the ecu.

    Wires will not change colour unless the motor has been swapped in,etc.

    And no need to cut any wiring to test it,find the fault first & then chop as a last resort if u really cant find the fault,just test at the wiring plugs.

    Would prob be a good idea if u can borrow a multimeter or buy one(very cheap ones at jaycar,supercheap,etc will be ok for your purposes) prob get them for like $10-$20.Will make your life a whole lot easier than that test light.

  7. #31
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    woot thanks very usefull info!

    ok i habnt inspected yet, waiting for saturday! i think i may need an auto electrician but.. what i understand

    the 2 wires from each injector isnt + and - which i thought
    they are both positive wires. 1 from battery/power supply and the other positive going straight to the ECU.

    is this correct?

    ill have a look on the weekend to purchase one, might as well i think ill need one in the future

  8. #32
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    Yell/blk(or what ever common colour on injectors u have is "+",ie 12V,& all 4 wires are joined at one of the shock tower engine plugs,& then a single wire from the main relay supplies this joint with 12V.

    The other 4 wires go straight back to ecu & are "-",ie 0V,The ecu connects all these 4 wires to ground in turn to fire the injectors,so u will just want to test these wires are continuous,ie unbroken.Test as i previously described or use your new multimeter set on ohms to see if they give a figure of between 0-1 ohms,when u touch the probes to both ends of the wire(get a long piece of spare wire to join at one end to do this simply,so u can form a loop)

  9. #33
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    oh so the ground wires are going to the ECU, so no wonder why i wouldnt of got light on it right? or wrong?

    so basically all i need to do

    test wires from battery to injectors if thats active.. pretty easy just the regular wire test right..

    then ill need to check the ground wires from injectors to ECU do a test on these wires using the multimeter or the same tester to see if its acive (dont quite get how ill test these wires)

    i dont get what mean by "when u touch the probes to both ends of the wire(get a long piece of spare wire to join at one end to do this simply,so u can form a loop)"

    im not familiar with this stuff aye!

  10. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by XP02ED
    oh so the ground wires are going to the ECU, so no wonder why i wouldnt of got light on it right? or wrong?

    so basically all i need to do

    test wires from battery to injectors if thats active.. pretty easy just the regular wire test right..wire from main relay(not battery) to injectors,turn ignition on,put multi on 12V scale,put black probe on ground,ie neg bat terminal,engine block bare metal or chassis bare metal,touch red probe to yell/blk pin inside connector,& see if u get 12V

    then ill need to check the ground wires from injectors to ECU do a test on these wires using the multimeter or the same tester to see if its acive (dont quite get how ill test these wires)U need to test that the wire is unbroken,so if u get a long bit of wire,wrap it around one of the injector plug pins of the wire your testing(or get a friend to hold it on there),that way u will have one long continuous bit of wire which multi probes will be able to reach both ends of to test,well hopefully it will be continuous.Concentrate more on testing the power,yell/blk, wires ,cos if all 4 injectors arent firing,then its highly unlikely that all 4 ecu wires are broken,unless a plug has come loose at the engine shock towers or ecu.These are stock injectors we are talking about isnt it,theyve never been changed before? Ive forgotten.

    i dont get what mean by "when u touch the probes to both ends of the wire(get a long piece of spare wire to join at one end to do this simply,so u can form a loop)"

    im not familiar with this stuff aye!

    see blue bits

  11. #35
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    wow ok i understand now! yeh there stock injectors, havnt touched anything yet...

    well thanks alot dude ill go try things out and see how it goes, ill let you know what happens! thanks alot!

    from what i can tell

    Battery > injectors for +

    Injectors > ECU for -

    is this correct?
    Last edited by XP02ED; 14-09-2006 at 10:39 PM.

  12. #36
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    ok i did a test on the injectors this morning as i had time

    i turned the car on after i removed the clips from the injector to test if the line was active

    i didnt get a signal

    i directly tested it by pointing the tester into the clip as shown as this link :



    is there a problem?

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