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  1. #49
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R - S2000
    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer
    Pull the plug off the IACV & see if there is 12V on the yellow/black pin with ignition on.
    Then test if other pin(colour?,black/blue i think) is continuous back to ecu pin A9 on OBD1,A12 on OBD2.

    A quick test is pull the A plug on ecu off turn ign on & ground the IACV wire on & off, & see if u can hear the IACV click each time u ground it.
    ok i'll try that... hmmm... if it doesn't click does that mean i'll need a new iacv?
    and if it clicks does that mean it works...

    thanks

  2. #50
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    click=
    no click=

  3. #51
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R - S2000
    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer
    click=
    no click=
    lol thanks

  4. #52
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    dont forget to get the ECU code for me

  5. #53
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R - S2000
    oh yeah i had a look at the outside case of the ecu... and there was no code or barcode/sticker... where else to look?

  6. #54
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    Quote Originally Posted by kraftycuts
    oh yeah i had a look at the outside case of the ecu... and there was no code or barcode/sticker... where else to look?
    should be another sticker on top of the connector block(thing the plugs go into),u might have to remove the lid to see it properly.

    Unless u guys are talking bout the software revision number? Can u get this info off the barcode or do u have to read it off the ROM?

  7. #55
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R - S2000
    err... not sure man... i'll open it up and see if i can get a model number.

  8. #56
    Green block gangster Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Car:
    twin GX160's
    take a photo of it

  9. #57
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R - S2000
    no probs. will do it tomorrow

  10. #58
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R - S2000
    hey dudes... got more probs with the car...

    k the eg threw an engine code 23... which is the knock sensor... this was done in the morning ... after i drove it to hanny's to get a check up... the engine light was on but after i attached the wires to pull the code up again the light just kept on without throwing codes?

    i notice that when i turn the ignition switch on theres a poping sound from behind the cluster or near the fuses, is this normal?

    ok second problem... when i drive the eg cold the car seems to work fine... but after the temp gauge starts working (theres a lag in the gauge needle rising) the engine light turns on and the car lags like hell. when i press the accelerator and let go to change gears the revs rises a few hundred then drops???

    ok the above is what i have noticed so far... i know its alot to ask but has anyone come across this?

    p.s. what does a knock sensor do... i know it detects knocking in the engine but whats knocking? <<< noob question
    Last edited by kraftycuts; 13-11-2006 at 10:39 AM.

  11. #59
    primary o2 heater might be the fault

  12. #60
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    Knock is the resonance in the pistons,rods,bearings that is caused by your fuel igniting by something other than the spark plug.Examples would be intake air too hot ,sharp egdes on piston reliefs gettin hot,carbon deposits gettin hot,etc & igniting the fuel seperately to the spark.The meeting of the multiple explosions in the bore causes the resonance & u get that metal "knock" sound.ECU detects knock it retards the timing.

    Did u use shielded wire on the knock sensor feed to the ecu out of interest?

    Sounds like u might have got your ECT sender(to cluster guage) & your ECT sensor(to ECU) mixed up.

    The sender gives a lower reading at normal operating temp than the sensor & the ECU would be making fuel compensations cos it thinks the motor is running hotter than it actually is.Would also explain the delay on the temp guage operation cos the sensor comes down from a much higher reading than the sender.Could also explain the pop behind the cluster cos your guage is tryin to go lower than its meant to.

    Thats my uneducated 2cents+GST anyway,I'll send ya an invoice.

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