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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    syd
    Car:
    560hp
    fior that amp?
    yeah 8 gauge is fine.

  2. #14
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '97 Integra
    Actually, I've got a 4 gauge kit lying around so I'll probalyl use that lol.
    Rice isn't nice.

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Car:
    2006 Accord Euro Std 6MT
    Hahah i like the sound of the water.

    Dont get me wrong ....big speaker wire is always best, but given the option of cutting up your car?? With the gear you're running Id just use the stock for the fronts and see how you go. When I was using my gear to compete in SQ comps i would never have used stock wiring ... but in my Euro I didnt want to mess with the car... so factory it is... and they sound fine

    As for the terminals ... im not sure on the Integra wiring. Can maybe just google for the wiring diagrams.. or maybe use a cheap gauge to work out which is the power wire from the factory wiring.

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    doorstop
    Cmon boys...
    were talkin mass produced hondas not genuine phase III or ferrari

    get the drill out & put some decent cable in,then u wont have to worry bout undersized,understranded, multiple joined cables which are loomed up with lots of power, which u cant find the ends of in any case.....

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    syd
    Car:
    560hp
    Quote Originally Posted by CRXer
    Cmon boys...
    were talkin mass produced hondas not genuine phase III or ferrari

    get the drill out & put some decent cable in,then u wont have to worry bout undersized,understranded, multiple joined cables which are loomed up with lots of power, which u cant find the ends of in any case.....
    lol, i know it's mass produced hondas.
    i've wired up a customers car using top of the line pioneer splits.
    i let him listen to both, one just stock, and one using thicker wiring, he couldn't tell the difference.
    1. the speakers aren't that great
    2. he wasn't running a powerful amp to run em anyways.

    if he was running a fantastic setup, sure, i highly recommend it to him.
    if his not, i will say, change it if you can, if it's easy rah rah rah, but don't go killing people if you can't
    lol

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Melb - SE
    Car:
    737 - Ventura Bus
    FUll DIY here.

    It is not easy though

    http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=257
    If you stand for nothing, you will fall for anything.

  7. #19
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '97 Integra
    Quote Originally Posted by bungsai
    FUll DIY here.

    It is not easy though

    http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=257
    Wow, great writeup! Much better than taking off my door and drilling into it :P

    Thanks mate.
    Rice isn't nice.

  8. #20
    It still involves drilling the door, but i know that in my da9 you don't have to take the door off to do it.

    The last time i was rotating my wheels i removed the plastic guard in the wheel well to clear out all the leaves/dirt stuck in there, I noticed that you can access the same section of door that the stock harness goes in, and you have enough room to ease a drill in there.

    Just remember to stay out of the way of the stock harness, rust-proof and use a grommet.

    (edit: Just followed Bungsai's link, and saw that they have an alternative page using the same method as me. http://www.team-integra.net/sections...ArticleID=1119 )

    I'd say that if you can fit the wiring in the harness like in Bungsai's link, and were confident about not damaging the harness then you should go with that. Looks better and no tampering with metal.
    Last edited by Rasputin; 30-09-2006 at 10:34 PM.

  9. #21
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '97 Integra
    Quote Originally Posted by destrukshn
    lol, i know it's mass produced hondas.
    i've wired up a customers car using top of the line pioneer splits.
    i let him listen to both, one just stock, and one using thicker wiring, he couldn't tell the difference.
    1. the speakers aren't that great
    2. he wasn't running a powerful amp to run em anyways.
    150wrms to each speaker is not 'that' small. How much power was your customer running through them?
    Rice isn't nice.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R
    I've run speaker wire into the doors of my current DC2R and my old DA9. It's not easy, but i can be done. And no, the doors do NOT have to be removed on either. No metal is drilled. No rubber is cut. The final product is complete stealth

    It's f*&king tricky to pass the cable thru the loom on the drivers side; prob because im right handed, and theres more cables in the right loom due to the power windows/door controller etc.

    With the DC2, i removed the side indicator lights and fed the cable down behind the quater panel so there's a little more slack in the loom. It makes the feeding part easier.

    Drill thru the square plastic plug with a 6mm bit. I cant explain it without pics, but the whole assembly falls appart and unplugs from the door.

    Hopefully someone has some pics of what im talking about.

    Goodluck dude.

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