Dodgy Sound Deadening your doors

**ChaosMaster** · 15-05-2012 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by TbM

Its called brush on body deadener and i got it from supercheap auto, was about $30 for a tin i think

Mine has plastic there too, you just take the arch cover off and there should be metal there, i only did the rear part of the front arch as the rest of the arch is in the enginebay so no need to reduce road noise in your engine bay, i fully coated the rear arches.
Heres a pic to show the arch liner after ive put it back over the deadened arch.

Sweet, thanks. If only I could rep you some more.

**-JC-** · 15-05-2012 07:24 PM

Awesome DIY, and to be honest, that is more a more comprehensive job than I have seen come out of some 'professional' car audio stores.

I'm about to do exactly this to my EP3 as I have a heap of gear to install in it. Just curious as to your thoughts on the Dynaxorb pads, is there a noticeable difference? The guys in the UK seem to go crazy for them, but I haven't seen them used here before now. I have a feeling that my side intrusion beam might get in the way of these, so I was considering just wrapping the beam in a layer of Dynamat and doing the inner and outer skins in the same way that you have.

**TbM** · 15-05-2012 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by -JC-

Awesome DIY, and to be honest, that is more a more comprehensive job than I have seen come out of some 'professional' car audio stores.

I'm about to do exactly this to my EP3 as I have a heap of gear to install in it. Just curious as to your thoughts on the Dynaxorb pads, is there a noticeable difference? The guys in the UK seem to go crazy for them, but I haven't seen them used here before now. I have a feeling that my side intrusion beam might get in the way of these, so I was considering just wrapping the beam in a layer of Dynamat and doing the inner and outer skins in the same way that you have.

Thats why i dont let "professionals" work on my car lol.

This is the first time i have used the dynapads as they were recommended to me by trism, i installed it all at once with the dynamat so its hard to say what effect the dynapad has, but going from nothing to having dynamat and dynapad is a huge difference. They are quite cheap so if you want to get the best out of the speaker then might as well go for it.

with regards to the intrusion beam as far as im aware there is no need to wrap it as its a fairly solid bar so shouldnt resonate, if its not attached to the door skin well you can skiaflex it to the skin to give the skin more support, mine was still attached well so i didnt bother.

**-JC-** · 15-05-2012 08:02 PM

Too easy, thanks mate. I will see how I go when I pull the door trims off again. I had one off on the weekend to make a template for my spacers (which are being CNC cut this week sometime) and I noticed that the beam goes directly behind the speaker, so I was worried the Dynapad wouldn't fit directly behind the speaker, but I will have another look when I get into it proper.

**TbM** · 16-05-2012 01:08 AM

Originally Posted by -JC-

Too easy, thanks mate. I will see how I go when I pull the door trims off again. I had one off on the weekend to make a template for my spacers (which are being CNC cut this week sometime) and I noticed that the beam goes directly behind the speaker, so I was worried the Dynapad wouldn't fit directly behind the speaker, but I will have another look when I get into it proper.

Np, if the beam goes directly behind the speaker then you might be better off looking at eggshell foam, thats the other thing trism recommended i could use behind the speakers, you would be able to mould this around the intrusion bar and cover the area behind the driver.

**Skyline_034** · 19-05-2012 02:22 PM

THANK you!

**simonhaha** · 17-09-2012 12:34 PM

Any tips on stopping water from getting though to speakers after applying dynamat? did you stick the plastic weather shield with the grotty sticky stuff back on top of your dynamat after dynamatting?

**TbM** · 17-09-2012 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by simonhaha

Any tips on stopping water from getting though to speakers after applying dynamat? did you stick the plastic weather shield with the grotty sticky stuff back on top of your dynamat after dynamatting?

I havent had a problem with rain getting to the back of the speaker, if your seals are rooted and leaking you could glue a peice of plastic inside the door above the speaker to block water from hitting the back of the speaker.

No i just covered the service holes in tape then mdf then dynamat which seals the door negating the need for the weathershield as you can see in the pic below.

**simonhaha** · 18-09-2012 02:09 PM

Thanks mate, this really helped a lot. I just recieeved my bulk of dynamat today. Would this be enough to do my 2 front doors and boot lid?

and... would it be ok if i just stuck the dynamat straight over the service holes? Cant see myself using a electric saw cutting those MDF shapes

Cheers
Simon

**sensei_** · 18-09-2012 04:05 PM

not sure if sticking dynamat is advisable over service holes, but wont the dynamat "move" when you crank the speakers, and not create that "airtight" seal that you are after.

you dont even need to cut the holes to size/shape. just a small square piece and some bolts will do the job if you were that lazy

**simonhaha** · 18-09-2012 04:59 PM

think tape is even easier than bolts

just that cutting wood is a pain the the buns. Dont wanna buy or go near an electric saw. Would cutting pieces off say a hard binder folder do the job? Its like semi cardboard/woodish.
and just dynamat over it?

ive seen people on youtube just lay dynamat right over the wholes without covering them, seems like TMB is doing more which seems right..

or any other alternatives? Thanks guys