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08-07-2014 09:54 AM
#16297
Does anyone on this forum know much about the purple 2005 ep3 in QLD on carsales?
Was wanting to know if it would be worth flying up to QLD to inspect it?
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08-07-2014 12:27 PM
#16298
Originally Posted by flop101
Does anyone on this forum know much about the purple 2005 ep3 in QLD on carsales?
Was wanting to know if it would be worth flying up to QLD to inspect it?
I've met the guy a few times, he's pretty cool but all I know is it has had a bit of work to it. The guy works for 999 automotive if uve ever heard of them before and it's a pretty clean car
mmmmmmmmmm EM1
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08-07-2014 12:42 PM
#16299
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
I've met the guy a few times, he's pretty cool but all I know is it has had a bit of work to it. The guy works for 999 automotive if uve ever heard of them before and it's a pretty clean car
thanks for the info. Will call him up today and see what the reason for the respray.
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09-07-2014 07:07 PM
#16300
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
Problem: Every time the EP3 enters and exits my car port, the b-pipe scrapes.
Solution: Custom b-pipe made up, with greater ground clearance. Perhaps no central muffler?
I'm new to playing with cars, so I'd like to know if this practice is common or not. I just thought of it as an effective solution.
The one in midnight purple? Larry is a good guy, he's a mate of mine and I can tell you that k24 engine in it is fresh with super low kms and legit parts. Reason for re spray was cause of small accident at Mt nebo; but his car was still pretty straight and was repaired at a very reputable body shop at coopers plains as far as I remember.
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
Problem: Every time the EP3 enters and exits my car port, the b-pipe scrapes.
Solution: Custom b-pipe made up, with greater ground clearance. Perhaps no central muffler?
I'm new to playing with cars, so I'd like to know if this practice is common or not. I just thought of it as an effective solution.
some people use oval b pipes to get a little bit more clearance too
Last edited by UNA91; 09-07-2014 at 07:18 PM.
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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09-07-2014 08:08 PM
#16301
Originally Posted by UNA91
The one in midnight purple? Larry is a good guy, he's a mate of mine and I can tell you that k24 engine in it is fresh with super low kms and legit parts. Reason for re spray was cause of small accident at Mt nebo; but his car was still pretty straight and was repaired at a very reputable body shop at coopers plains as far as I remember.
some people use oval b pipes to get a little bit more clearance too
Thanks for clearing that up. According to Larry the the re spray was due to him liking purple. I asked about the accident you mentioned and he denied it (no suprise). The k24 engine its got in it isnt super low kms, its got about 90, 000km on it now.
Any other information would he great. Thanks
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09-07-2014 10:28 PM
#16302
Originally Posted by flop101
Thanks for clearing that up. According to Larry the the re spray was due to him liking purple. I asked about the accident you mentioned and he denied it (no suprise). The k24 engine its got in it isnt super low kms, its got about 90, 000km on it now.
Any other information would he great. Thanks
Haha don't take my word for it tho this is based of what I heard as well but I've seen the car in person and it's pretty well maintained
vtak + jrsc = bwwaaaahinneeeee
IF GUNS don't kill people, people kill people does that mean that toasters don't toast toast, toast toast toast?
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20-07-2014 10:52 PM
#16303
Guys, I was after some help. Took the EP3 to Wakefield this weekend and found that I just could not get traction at the back wheels. If I pushed hard into a corner it would oversteer to the point where I could not regain traction and would spin out. I lost 7 seconds from my best lap which was back in 2012. Changes since then are alignment and tyres. I'm running BC BR coilovers. Experimenting with the dampening settings didn't help. Removing the rear sway bar helped slightly???
The change in tyres should not have made a difference. Changed from Kuhmo KU32s to Hankook RS3s.
I think it might have something to do with the rear toe setting. It was 12' toe in but I changed it to 2.5' toe in.
Anyone got any ideas? Thinking I might take it to Heasman Steering to get a decent wheel alignment done and ask them to do some checks.
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21-07-2014 12:46 PM
#16304
Azz86, my 2 most recent track settings were:
Front camber: -3.0
Front toe: -1mm total toe out
Rear camber: -1.5
Rear toe: 3.0mm total toe in
Similar/same suspension setup to yours. BR BC coilovers, set at maximum low, fronts were set to full stiff, rears were set to 7 clicks from the stiffest setting.
Tyres: RE55s, 225/45 & 215/45 16
Other mods: whiteline swaybar, rear camber arms, front camber bolts, front RCA, front LCA bushes, todds tie rods, akom inverted ends.
The above toe in setting was much better to a previous setting where the only difference was the rear toe was set to zero. The previous zero rear toe setting the car was a bit twitchy in the rear when entering the corners too hot. A few oversteering incidences and one spin out in that particular outting.
The rear toe in setting the car was more neutral, only very minimal oversteer if I was really pushing it. Allowed me to PB at sandown with a 1:29.3864, down from 1:31:58. I played more with the tyre pressures in the most recent outting. All the other mods and alignment settings were the same.
Previous PB set with the zero toe setup was 1:35.4722, running A048's 245/40 & 225/45 17's. Mods that were different, no gruppe m, stock rear swaybar, stock front RCA/LCA.
I'd play around with your rear toe for now, put the swaybar back in. Then play around with the rear dampening settings again. Also look at tyre pressures.
What camber settings are you running in the front & rear?
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21-07-2014 10:07 PM
#16305
Thanks Mike. I was hoping you would weigh in here. Been a long time reader of your build thread
Front camber: -0.75 degrees
Front toe: 0.5mm total toe in
Rear camber: -1.30 degrees
Rear toe: 0.25mm total toe in
I had a run at Sydney Motorsport Park South Circuit late last year with these same settings. Had a pretty good day being just slightly slower than the Evo crowd but still lost the back end twice. Makes me wonder if I could get better with the proper wheel alignment.
Had a good look under the car this afternoon. Everything appears to be in perfect condition. Nothing obvious. Also noticed the car has some kind of after market tie rods which I didn't know about. Really think it is alignment related. Keen to get it fixed.
I'll have a play around and see if I can get any improvement. My last wheel alignment was with a home wheel alignment kit so it would be nice to actually take it to a professional.
Thanks again
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22-07-2014 05:35 PM
#16306
Anytime Azz86. A long time reader nice!
I'd also try dialling some more front camber, if you are able to for your next outting. If your camber tops are aready maxed out, you could look into camber bolts. Bearing in mind your stock tie rods will run out of adjustment the more negative you go.
I'd also change the front toe setting to run slight toe out, rather then toe in.
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22-07-2014 06:03 PM
#16307
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Anytime Azz86. A long time reader nice!
I'd also try dialling some more front camber, if you are able to for your next outting. If your camber tops are aready maxed out, you could look into camber bolts. Bearing in mind your stock tie rods will run out of adjustment the more negative you go.
I'd also change the front toe setting to run slight toe out, rather then toe in.
do you have a build thread for your 180? link?
Dc2r and em1 only good if you work at McDonald's, s2k good for order food in McDonald's deal with it m8
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24-07-2014 11:15 AM
#16308
Originally Posted by integraR
do you have a build thread for your 180? link?
Here you go:
http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index...ic=417218&st=0
Wasn't too sure if it still existed
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