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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    haha yeah

    Sounds good mate,just check to make sure the voltage's we are looking for are 0.48-0.49V closed throttle and 4.5V Wide Open Throttle and not different for the b18c.

    It should be that but just make sure.

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    SYDNEY
    Car:
    EG civic
    If you plan to do the flywheel, might as well save up the extra loot and bolt up a HD clutch and Type R 'box with 4.7 FD.

  3. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnL View Post
    If the stock clutch doesn't slip with your current power output (and you don't plan to increase that), then you don't need a heavier duty unit.
    It's a matter of preference IMO. I have stock clutch on one of my B18's and a "HD" on the other. The stock clutch doesn't slip under power but doesn't have anywhere near the power transmitting ability (of the"HD") when you're slipping it (off the line for example).

  4. #16
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Is your intake SRI or CAI? CAI will respond better and I think a CAI that is setup as a SRI with a cold air feed & heat shield will respond better than simply relocating the pod into the bumper (but just more work).

    Otherwise take off your IM and give it a good rinse/clean in Subaru engine cleaner. Also take it to your TB as well. Car will breathe like friggin' black hole

  5. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by string View Post
    It's a matter of preference IMO. I have stock clutch on one of my B18's and a "HD" on the other. The stock clutch doesn't slip under power but doesn't have anywhere near the power transmitting ability (of the"HD") when you're slipping it (off the line for example).
    I know what you're saying, and I tend to agree (I personally prefer a clutch with a bit of 'bite', within reason). My point was only that if the standard duty clutch was coping OK then there is no imperative to change it to a heavier duty unit for the sake of it.

    This is especially considering that a heavier duty clutch may well be somewhat more expensive, and may also possibly be somewhat less 'user friendly', which may not be to everyone's taste or pleasant in traffic bound city driving (be careful what you wish for sometimes...).

  6. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    Try this,it's free!
    Since it's free, I'll check mine tomorrow. Thanks beeza....

  7. #19
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Loganholme, QLD
    Car:
    dc2 vtir
    Quote Originally Posted by hussLEr View Post
    If you plan to do the flywheel, might as well save up the extra loot and bolt up a HD clutch and Type R 'box with 4.7 FD.
    Man, i have wished about this for soo long... but the money involved is a bit more then i can accumulate in a sensible amount of time... I got the flywheel cheap.... and i dont have any issues with the standard clutch so i was looking at an exedy oem replacment.... would go heavy duty but then traffic does suck....

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    Ek honda civic hatch
    a bigger throttle body will make throttle response worse, but may increase peak power a tiny bit. i wouldnt upgrade it unless you are going for big power. and plan on upgrading alot of other things too

  9. #21
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Car:
    EK1, 99 DC2
    Quote Originally Posted by Scholzey View Post
    a bigger throttle body will make throttle response worse, but may increase peak power a tiny bit. i wouldnt upgrade it unless you are going for big power. and plan on upgrading alot of other things too
    does it? sheez. thanks mate.

  10. #22
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnL View Post
    Since it's free, I'll check mine tomorrow. Thanks beeza....
    Cheers John,your welcome mate!

    Mate,you need to learn how to service your car,therefore have it runnin' in top condition all the time.You will be suprised how well your car will go.Here's a list,an old post I made:

    "If you want to get your engine up and running good cheap then you can do this yourself (Note: 3 years ago I knew nothing about cars):

    This is just dealing with the running of your engine,not suspension.

    - Upper engine clean your engine (foam stuff in a can).The Suburu UEC is the best
    - Clean Throttle body,especially the Intake air control valve with carby cleaner
    - Collaborate voltage on tps sensor on the throttle body
    - Clean/replace spark plugs and set gap correctly
    - Check resistance in your leads is fine
    - Clean contact points in the dizzy and lightly sand the rotor on the outer edge where it sparks on the contact points
    - Adjust tappets - VERY IMPORTANT!
    - Clean air filter OR replace with pod filter and good cold air piping/Cold air intake.The point is COLD AIR/air from outside the engine bay (Make sure you re-connect the IAT sensor on the new intake arm)
    - Get a wheel/camber/toe alignment and check your tyre pressure is correct once a week
    - Change the oil and oil filter (every 5000km's)
    - Change the fuel filter every 2nd oil change
    - Transmission oil is every 20,000km's
    - Charge your battery to full
    - Expell air in coolant system through the radiator
    - Adjust accelerator cable correctly
    - Check for engine codes and get familiar with how to do it!
    - And get used to doing regular checks of everything in the engine bay,I have found many problems like this! - Like bolts I forgot to do up!
    - And check for air leaks everywhere,all the clamps on the intake,all the gaskets on the engine and all the gaskets on the exhaust system! Important! No use having the whole thing running 100% if it's just gonna lose it somewhere.
    - Make your car as light as possible
    - Use BP Ultimate 98 fuel only (1/2 a tank max at a time if your keen)
    - Just a small amount of windshield water too!
    _ Also for $40 an injector (well worth it) you can get the spray pattern and flow rate adjusted correctly
    - Also look into advancing the timing 2-3 degrees.
    - Insulate your fuel lines - prevent the fuel from getting warm/hot
    - Check your timing is correct

    Do all that and your car will feel much better,then see if your satified,if not,another engine/car is in order

    I think everyone should 'work with what they got' and learn first.Then you will know where you want to go afterwards!"

  11. #23
    want to increase response ? Reduce rotational mass of both engine/drivetrain components , and wheels. For example , lightweight flywheel - smaller /lighter rims etc.

    Reduce overall vehicle mass....reduce static parts that are not required IE spare tyre , sound deadening etc.

  12. #24
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    legtec @2psi
    imo i dunoo a car with a heavy duty clutch+light flywheel feels like it has more off the line torque compared to stock. Like it just makes the car jump lol.
    Stock clutches feel laggy


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