EG Civic JDM D15B install by me

[chowdaa]

My first honda conversion and pretty proud of how neatly it came together. This is a small guideline and should not be put to practice unless you have proper electrical knowledge and other reliable system information

All the mechanical was easy and everyone knows how to.

Wiring D15B Vtec into an EG Breeze using a EFI civic harness

Shock tower plugs on drivers side is plug n play besides from the Blu/Yel or Grn/Wht but that is mentioned further down.
Shock tower plugs on the passengers side has to be separated from the rest of the car body harness and comes out going from shock tower plugs to ECU plugs and with some random inputs and outputs needed to be wired. The inputs and outputs I wired into a spare 20-pin plug which I had spare from the harness so then the harness can be separated.
A gauge cluster from any EFI EG civic will fit, as you need to the tacho and fuel warning.
The speedo/odometer and SRS airbag light can be swapped to the new EFI cluster held by screws/clips.

New wires to be run-
· IACV (Blu/Yel or Grn/Wht) needs to be wired in from grey plug under RHF dash (coming from shock tower) to A9.
· Start signal from clear plug behind the fuse box to B9
· MIL is to be wired in from grey plug above fuse box to A13
· FLR-A7 and IGP2-A25 to fuel pump relay switching coil
· Fuel pump to fuel pump relay.
· The EFI engine bay fuse box is direct bolt on and comes with a handy electrical load detector which sends out about 4.5v when headlights or demister is switched on to idle up.
· ELD from the engine bay fuse box to ECU (3 wires), Blk/Yel to ignition, Black to ground, Grn/Red to D10.
· Tacho not doesn’t need to be wired, plug and play.
· Fuel warning light can be wired in if you are using an EFI tank as it has the 3rd pin (Grn/yel) at the sender to red plug above the cabin fuse box (Grn/Red) to cluster.

Wires already located in the harness of the old ECU-(there are a lot of wires there which lead to believe that you don’t need to run new wires but they don’t go ANYWHERE)
· D1 - B+ - Wht/Blu
· D2 – IGN – Blk/Yel
· D8 – A/C Switch – Blu/Red
· D9 – VSS – Yel/Blu
· D22 – Brake light – Grn/Wht
· B2 – GND – Blk
· B9 – A/c Relay – Blk/Red
· B10 – Fan – Yel/Red
these have been tested and work for me.

Wires to be switched-
· Vtec pressure switch - Passengers side shock tower 14pin plug - org/blk to blank space on the side. Then A6 to D6, pins are different in size so a spare plug with smaller pins is needed wire into D6.

Trouble I ran into-
· Coolant temp sensor – Bringing on engine light and high idle. Found temp sensor resistance to be 800ohms. Should be 200-400ohms, replaced with sensor from old carby motor with resistance of 250ohms. Worked a treat.
· Idle still very high (1500) – The previous owner had the fast idle screw all the way out. Then set timing after to red marking on crank with engine in service mode.

Nifty facts
· Best to change engine + gearbox oil, plugs, timing belt, tensioner, water pump if your keen, THROW OUT BEARING.
· Check gearbox fluid level!!
· Exhaust won’t bolt up – Simply use the old carby manifold and exhaust. Not that good performance wise but quiet asJ ensuring you swap the O2 sensor.
· Fuel lines – I went through the trouble getting the lines from the EFI car. But the carby lines are identical. But the vent and return is to switched, feed is normal old 5/16”. The return is then the next size down then the tank vent to charcoal canister is the smallest.
· THE TANK FROM A HATCH AND SEDAN WILL BOLT UP TO THE HATCHBACK BREEZE (remember to get the plugs).
· Intake bellow and air box can be used from almost any EG EFI civic.
· A hole is to be cut to accommodate the air box as the feed is in a different location to the old carby. But I just rigged up a temporary one J

This is the old motor

This is engine from a Dennis and purchased by Thoa and installed by yours truly

EFI tank-notice when both EFI and carby tanks are side by side the carby tank can't simply bolt in a pump as there is no hole.

Wiring went from this unmarked, stripped rat's nest

to this sorted and labeled rat's nest

to this neat separable engine loom with diagnosis connector and fuel pump switching inputs.

this is the plug I've utilised for the cars inputs and outputs.

THE FINAL PRODUCT



thanks for reading.

[90LAN]

good work mate

good example of how much work is need to do carby to efi conversion

[chowdaa]

thanks man, forgot to include my retrofitted air box/filter. pk screwed the filter to the top half of the box. looks legit to the untrained eye

[sPoOnD_]

wat does it go like? been looing into the D15B's

[SuiJin]

why would you put a d15b when d16y1 is same price or even less.

[90LAN]

same power as a d16 vtec
130 hp but 1.5lt

some jdm d15b boxes have lsd too

[Webby_roller]

Nice work man.. I had the JDM D15b in my old ED6.. was the best little motor for toying around... cheap to run aswell... they sound crazy when your really getting up into the limiter

[SuiJin]

same power as a d16 vtec
130 hp but 1.5lt

some jdm d15b boxes have lsd too

nice, price comparison?

[jspec civic]

dats my old motor from my eg8 ferio...lol

[jspec civic]

did you buy that motor from a green sedan..sold to a bloke and he sold it to the guy that you bought it from..

[90LAN]

nice, price comparison?

500-800 bucks

[chowdaa]

i did buy it from a guy with a green sedan, got the whole car for 400 so all thats needed to set up the breeze (tank, box, wiring, spares). cheap and fun. considering wreckers wanted 370 for a used d15z2 long block carby motor cus the old one was rooted. The motor is very zippy and i like noise will post up cluster soon.