Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
No part of this DIY is to be reproduced with out acknowledgment of the site and author it came from, ie me and ozhonda.com. Do not rip parts off and claim them as your own.
VTS Solenoid "VTEC Spool Solenoid ". The VTS solenoid is commonly located on the side of the head next to the distributor. When the VTS is energised by the ECU it allows pressurised oil to pass ( via a valve and filter ) to the valve train locking pins that engage VTEC. The ECU monitors the VTS to ensure it is there and connected.
Aim:
Diagnose code 21.
Required:
Basic Testing
- Digital Multi Meter
- paper clip
- 12v test light
Symptoms
A faulty VTS Solenoid will trigger code 21. The MIL will light up and VTEC will not engage. The engine will rev happily to redline on low speed cam.
Basic Test
- Perform a Visual inspection and make sure the VTS Solenoid is Connected, Drive the car. IF the MIL lights up as soon as you start driving and code 21 registers in the ECU then the VTEC Solenoid or wiring is the culprit. If you do not get the engine MIL light until you give the car the beans to activate VTEC and its ok with placid driving then the ECU is at fault.
VTS Solenoid Pin out Picture
wire side of connector
**** Resistance Test **** Set the multimeter to ohms ( 1k scale )
Unplug the VTS Solenoid, connect your Red multimeter lead to Pin 1 of the VTS. Connect your Black multimeter lead to a known good ground.
you should get about 14 W to 30 W
If your VTEC Solenoid is not with in spec replace the VTEC Solenoid
**** Continuity Test ****
STEP 1
make sure the Ignition is off and unplug the VTS Connector and the ECU Connectors for this test
Continuity test between VTS Pin 1 and ECU, Connect your Red multimeter lead on the VTS Pin 1, Back probe* the Black multimeter lead on the ECU Pin bellow that suits your car.
OBDO = A8
OBDI = A4
OBDIIa = A8
OBDIIb = B12
Your multimeter should beep and read short or 000.0ohms. Place the black multimeter lead on a good ground source. You should not get beeping, this is testing for short to ground.
**** Voltage Test ****
Set your multimeter to DC Volts ( 20v scale )
Step 1
Connect the Black Lead from your multimeter to the chassis for a good ground. Back probe* the VTS with the Red lead to Pin 1 of the VTS Solenoid while the sensor is connected. It might be easier to test with your multimeter lead at the ECU connector ( see bellow )
You can also use a test light 12v 5w globe for this test. Connect one lead to the chassis for a good ground. Connect the other lead to the bellow ECU Pin.
OBDO = A8
OBDI = A4
OBDIIa = A8
OBDIIb = B12
have some one drive the car and you monitor the multimeter, with the engine at normal operating temp, have the driver rev the car in 1st gear ( not breaking the speed limit ) to pass the VTEC engagement point. Your Multimeter should read 12v when VTEC was ment to kick in. If you used a test light, it should also light up
If you do not get 12v and the engine light comes on replace the ECU. If you got 12v ( or the test light lit up ) for about 3 seconds and then the engine MIL lit up then you have a faulty ECU. ( or a dodgy modified ECU. This is common if you try to Add VTEC to an ECU and use 5050S for a driver )
STEP 2
unplug the VTEC Solenoid and use a jumper wire from the battery positive ( + ) terminal to Pin 1 of the VTEC Solenoid. You should hear the VTEC Solenoid click as you apply 12v to it.
* Notes
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running
Back probe the sensor, use a paperclip and push it into the connector then touch/clip your multimeter lead to the paper clip
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!
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