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hmm, i took the seat out and wiggled it abit and found the sound to be coming from around the lever to fold the seats down, oiled it all up but still makes noise. I sort of sounds like shaking a white out pen with those metal things inside them lol Don't really wanna take it apart cause i'm scared i'd mess something up lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Will end up cheaper if you go through Streeter! Also, many people (including myself) use SFS intake pipes. Doubt there's too much difference in which brand of silicon piping you use though!Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Where can I get the sfs hose from? Checked here online and the trader is expired but had it for $20!Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
yeh rps said it, tegiwa makes one.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Gruppe m might have one.. they used to.. dunno bout now.
also, ive seen on the uk type r forums the SFS silicon hose is really popular for the gruppe and it fits really snug too
where do you buy low seat rails for the oem ep3 recaros from?Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
Ok cool will hopefully track one of those down too, with the seat rail I'm unusre where you would get those I got mine off Phillip Lee here used, I suppose that you can also try jesse streeter for those too as I believe rps.13 also got his new from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
How does the lowered drivers position feel? I feel like when i move my seat back a little, the B-pillar becomes a massive blind spot when turning corners due to the angle of our windscreen, and parking front first hard cause you cant see the hood lol
I think I need a lower drivers positionQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I'm 6" and my head shaves the roof sometimes hahah
I have a rear bar for sale, I don't have the lip though.
I guess im not the only one with that problem than =)Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
If u have this problem already, lowering seat will be worse.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Haha well I already have trouble getting out of my car if i park near a wall or if a car parks close beside me. I also tend to misjudge my distance from the curb parking front first ever since i snapped my mugen lip (got it fixed tho) and accidentally leave a huge gap lol reverse park ftw
lol really? haha im 6"2 and i still got heaps of head space, and this is stock rails as wellQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Luke drives like and old man with his chin 10cm away from steering wheel! His head actually needs to clear the wind screen!
The lowered driving position feels really good, you dont have to angle the steering wheel so high up and it sits nicely aligned with your shoulders. the b pillar issue didnt seem to be any worse than when I had the original rail. When I had the stock rail in I couldnt see the end of the bonnet anyway so its not that much different being able to see less of it now its more about knowing and feeling where the corners of the car is. Im a short ass so they headroom was not an issue but it feels much less lofty now than before.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
if it sit back its fine but sometime when get'n into it a lean forward hahahQuote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
If OK but I'd like it a little lower
i'll kill you GeorgeQuote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
hahaha i totally understand what you mean! :thumbsup:, you get into it haha, i think Lee (b16a2) has a pair of lowered spoon rails for 200 bucks. ask him and see if his still got them
if u want a lowering rail, get the Vanners Special ones (it drops 5cm). all the others only drop around 2cm and the difference isn't big compared to stock seat.
i went from stock to Vision (-2cm) then Vanners and never looked back.
+1 for the Vanners Tuner Special seat rail. One of the best mods I've done to the EP, even when it was relatively stock. The lowered seating position, completely changed the driving experience.
From memory it dropped the seat approximately 5.7-5.9cm at all the points I measured it.
Purchased through Jesse Streeter :thumbsup:
On the topic of Jesse Streeter, I was thinking about seeing if he can supply OEM parts, which I assume from his website he can. Only thing I was thinking was that they may not be readily available in Japan anymore given the age of the EP3. I know here in Aus most manufacturers only stock things for a specific period of time, anyone know what its like in Japan?
I went to a Honda dealer here before because I was after a side mirror for my ep3. They said they don't have it in stock but if I wanted they could order one in for me form Japan, so in the process I asked if I could order any other parts and they said that I could pretty much order any part but it just may take some time for the order to come from Japan. (I didn't end up ordering because I saw a cheaper one from eBay lol)Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
So maybe they are readily available in Japan?
Yeah I spoke to a really honest parts guy at the local Honda dealer today, he told me he could get anything, but added that it takes very long time. Apparently there is one guy in Melbourne @ Honda who is responsible for all of the import parts and in the words of the guy I spoke to 'It isn't his highest priority' lol. Might flick Jesse an email and see. Surely its gotta be cheaper direct from Japan as opposed to the UK or SuperGT etc? Having said that, given that they were manufactured in the UK, I could be wrong . . . anyone?
I actually found buying parts coming from UK cheaper rather than ordering from Japan. Maybe it was just that one product though.
I was under the impression that, dealership would stock any spare parts for any car up 10-15 years depending on the car manufacturer?.
if they dont have it in stock then i assume importing a certain part wouldnt be any hassle. Good family friend that works at honda explained to me that, a lot of the oem parts (depending on what it is) could be easily sourced from japan now, due to the fact that the new Jazz(MY12) is now shipped/manufactured from Japan and that a lot of the oem parts can just come on the same ship. he may be wrong? but i dont know im always under the impression Jazz was made in thailand?
but who knows i got a pair of ballast from honda spare parts within a week for my FL H.I.Ds, hassle free lol~
On average what are most people getting out of a full tank? I only got 350km's is that normal for city driving?
When you say a full tank, do you mean until the light comes on? My light has been on and off for the last 3 days driving to work and back depending on whether I am going up hill or down. I'm getting 320-340k out of $40 (bout 25-27 litres) each week before I get tired of playing chicken with the fuel light. It's not my preferred option, but my fuel budget set by the minister for war and financial affairs in my house insists that this is my limit for the week . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
You should be getting a shedload more than 350 from a tank unless your driving everywhere at 9000rpm . . . I'm certainly not driving miss daisy on my way to the figures mentioned above.
when i fill up completely, i've covered at least 200kms usually at half tank.. =\
Only running injen cai and subo rm01a.
A lot of spirited driving too..
Of course if you vtec every set of lights you're gonna be getting a lot less as JC said :P
Would also depend on how much time you spend sitting in heavy traffic.
Well until this tank I have only filled up about $40 or so as petrol was spastic at $1.45 a litre here a few weeks back. I filled up $50 last week or what not reset the counter and just got the light now after 350km's. I dont go vtecing every where and I normally shift up at 3k and rev it up slowly and then cruise in 5th@ 60km/h. And lol man you only get a $40 allowance per week for fuel?? Im never getting married and you live in your own communist russia at your house :pQuote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
I dont really have heavy heavy traffic as I drive to work after 9:30-10am and leave mostly after 6:30pm, but like I said I dont vtec hardly at all, maybe 5-6 times a week.Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
I'm not married mate . . . yet! Soviet Russia has got nothing on this 5hit . . . you should have seen the negotiation process I had to go through to even GET an EP3! I sold a car that cost more than twice as much as the one I have now and I still had to fill out the form and wait in the queue . . .
You should be thankful for fuel at $1.45 mate . . . I got there first thing this morning at the cheapest point in the cycle and still paid $1.49.9 for 98 octane . . . QLD used to have a nice fat 8c per litre fuel subsidy, but thanks to our now ex-premier Anna Bligh, the state is now basically fcuked unless your involved in the mining industry.
Ahahaha oh man you got some troubles run, run away quick!!! Regular pussy is not worth going through that, plus how will you be able to mod your car?Quote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
That petrol price is only for normal unleaded 95 try more like $1.47-$1.57 for 98
i get round about 420 before the light comes on, this is combined peak hour driving and highway. vtecing sometimesQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
im running on a custom catback exhaust, stock airbox.
heaps surprised your only gettin 350kms per a a full tank,
Yeah same here I figured I would get at least 400kms out of a full tankQuote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
I get 420km then light turns on. i fill up around 40-43L ... so im guessing it is using 10L/100km. Completely stock car... but i like hitting vtec :)
I'm getting 500 odd.
Few mods. Most I got was 520.
And who doesn't love getting their vtec on!
thats pretty weird, could it be the o2 sensor failing? ive read people having the same issues and the fix was was replacing the o2 sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
but from your build, you changed the headers right, did you tune the ecu? ive heard you have to if you change the headers but i can be very wrong about it
Yeah actually..... I still havent done the headers yet :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
I was organising a high flow cat and need to get it welded with flanges still so I havent done anything with them yet.
Is the O2 sensor a common problem that affects fuel economy?
oh okay then, that puts the tune out of the equation. but hope to see some results when you get all the parts you need and get them on haha,Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
but a lot of the issues ive read in the european forums, relating to bad fuel all seem to some how relate back to the primary or secondary o2 sensor,and need replacing or something but then again their ep3 is different in the uk then the jdm ones we get here and considering we have k20a while uk have k20a2 but all the parts are still universal
Running no secondary o2 at the moment as it grounding out on the chassis due to unrelated problems.
I am getting flightly worse economy but not 350kms O.o
Yeah from that link you sent me it does seem to me that there is something odd with the car as the consensus on that thread seems to be at least 400km minimum, so i think I should check it out and give it a full service.Quote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
Also, what engine oil are you running?
Could be to do with the thickness of it, though I'm not sure if it effects mileage THAT much.
what mod did you do to your ep3?? 500 is nice :)Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
good idea man, cause i find your numbers really odd~ 350 is way to low for average ep3 drivers and even with you vtec from point a to b all the time you should be able to average 390s-420 easily on a full tank so kinda weird i guess. i have heard on one person in the hk forums that he didnt know what was wrong with it and he was only gettin 240kms on a full tank and he figured it was something to do with the sensors or something but then again i can barely read chinese haha. but definitely do a full service if you need any help looking for a spare sensor i might know a place that can assist in getting you one.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
The fuel gauge in the EP is pretty screwy.
I tested mine once. The light came on at 290kms. Ran out of fuel at 573kms. Best to compare with L/100kms.
Cheers man, I go and get it checked out when I can and update on whats upQuote:
Originally Posted by Icebox
Was wondering. Why is that the JDM DC5 were fitted with brembos from factory and the JDM EP3 wasn't?
Maybe its because of marketing issues? They probably saw the integra in Japan as a more popular choice of a Type R due to the success of the dc2r and decided to invest on a set of brembos.Quote:
Originally Posted by brody
Just be happy your CTR has more power than the ITRQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
:)
who cares slap spoon monocs on that mother****erQuote:
Originally Posted by brody
Haha true that:)
Ahh and spoon do look sexy
^but expensive as hell :(
^not as expensive as the wheels that sit over it.
^ that depends :P speaking of big brakes, i've seen photos of an fn2 with mercedes AMG brakes :O looked quite sexy haha
Good example of modding for the sake of moddingQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
No way fn2 needs amg brakes
Even if boosted, it's still a waste of money
Yeh dam. Imagine the mods you could do with that amount of money.
anyone got the headlight connectors diagram? I still got the original factory hid headlights and trying to install them. Took them to a mechanic but they couldnt put them in cause the plug has been cut off
Can I buy the original plug somewhere? Thanks heaps
I guess something like http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-H...-P971C320.aspx but for the ep3?
does anyone know why theres a loud knocking noise coming from rear when i over gas a launch in wet causing tires to spin a bit
its been wet and was a steep hill
gassed it a bit too much
next thing, pulling to the side and tires spiinning a bit
but wat worried me was this loud knocking sound from the back
sounded liek rocks hitting the under carriage
anyone else had this happen before?
It's lack of traction and the suspension / driveshaft loading up or something i.e. wheel tramp.
A mate of mine told me back when I had a xr5. More prone in the wet.
Totally normal as it happens too a lot of fwd.
My ep also does it every now and then.
Does any one know where I can get a primary and secondary O2 sensor for cheap for the EP3? the one on amazon is not available to be shipped to Aus for some reason
Have a look at this.. not sure if it's what if it's what you're looking for, and it's used.
easy guy to deal with :)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Civic-Typ...#ht_500wt_1054
Thanks for the link but really looking at getting new items so as to save any hassles.Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
Honda?
Are ate ypu using that as a last resort as they charge 3 limbs
Lings Honda based in uk sell parts and they ship to Australia.
And brody is correct, will be pricey.
Think this is the right section..
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...&block_03=9726
Uff man they are like $330 each! There is one on amazon for like $40 denso branded but like I said it doesnt allow shipping here...Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
parts industry is f**ked. Honda must be making an absolute killing. Along with all other makes.
Anyone know how to change the brakelight bulbs (Pre-FL)? Thinking of doing an LED conversion, but theres this red cap covering the socket from inside the boot. It seems pretty solid. :S
Its pretty difficult to access the bulbs from the inside of the boot. I found it easier to just take off the whole light overall and replace it from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
You have to remove the bumper and mounting brackets in order to get out the lights and just go from there.
Silly me, theres was no bulb behind the red cap, didn't think the brake light shared the same bulb as when you turn your headlights on. :|
Another question. Looking at getting race headers and am interested in the Kidd Racing header, however, as much as they claim to have excellent ground clearance, i'm still a little worried since I scrape my mid pipe every now and then. Anyone running RH have any clearance issues?
Kiddracing headers have good clearence. My EP is pretty damn low, I'm now tucking about 1/2 an inch of tyre on 205/50/16's on the fronts. My mid pipe gets 99% of the scrappage. I've only managed to tear a small section of the heat wrap off the lowest point on the headers, haven't scrapped it yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
So, I've replaced all of the lights I could get my hands on with LED's . . . The hatch trim isn't that bad, only broke one clip, and since there is about 48 in it, I didn't bother replacing it.
Moving onto some more massive mods now . . . socks!
WTF is with Mugen socks being $20-$30 a pop? Seriously, its a bloody tennis wristband with a logo on it! I'd really like to stay with the red (or orange even) theme with this car. Found some 'spoon' (not likely to be genuine, but surely this is a part you can afford to skimp on?) ones for under $10 a pair on fleabay here, but they are blue
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120830957...84.m1423.l2649
The only difference I can see between them and the Mugen ones is that they come with a rubber o-ring (which I can get anywhere for a few cents) and a massive price tag. Any tips?
lol yeah man you skimp out on these parts 100% or you can always use an old sock and make em yourself :pQuote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
$5 imitation spoon socks it is!
I never understood the concept of those socks :S
To absorb the fluid in case of spillage under hard braking.
Also for hard parking :D
But if there was fluid spillage wouldn't that be a problem in the first place? :S
Stops fluid from getting all over your engine bay :P
Yeah it would be, but if you have a look here . . . http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...s.-Word./page5Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
It's already eaten the paint off Trav's rocker cover before he had a chance to notice and rectify the problem. I'm going to fork out the $5 + postage to save having to repaint a rocker cover. I originally thought they were a hard park item only till I saw Trav's thread.
Car has been feeling pretty jerky and sluggish lately, particularly going from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. Did a general service last week and found my front drivers side motor mount is splitting, could that be the cause of it? I've already ordered Hasport 62a street mounts and going to be filling the transmission mount with Sikaflex.
I'm also getting a bit of some rattle/chattering sound, almost like small plastic beads in a plastic bottle with slight jerking when I shift into 2nd and sometimes 3rd at low rpm, particularly when I'm creeping through traffic or downshifting to slow down for a bump.
Also a creaking sound coming from the front; similar sound to when you open a house door that needs a lil 4wd at the hinges. Usually comes on when I'm pulling away slowly from 1st. Have been todl it may be the endlinks, but it looks fine and couldn't find any movement or play in them. Oh questions.. :\
I have the same creak coming from the front as well. I'm not sure where its coming from. I'll prob bring it down to my mechanic for a look.
^ Steering rack? Do you feel it through the steering column?
I'm not sure. I'm thinking the rack needs a regrease but I can feel it through the column.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3