EP3 Type R

I know most people are saying.. get the RBC intake 'Bang for your buck!" etc. But I want something that is going to get me the gains (Obviously not much being N/A) and also have a well-known good quality brand that is going to hold its value when/if it came time to sell, and/or part out. I'm thinking Skunk2, been around for years and have great reviews across all vehicle makes. Any suggestions on other names would be greatly appreciated as I'd like to order it now while I'm away:) and have a little prezzie sitting at home when I get back:P

intake manifold ***

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

i dont even have a jack, or id at least change wheels and shit by myself

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i dont even know how to use the EP3 jack to lift my car... was driving home one morning from girlfriends house so i could get ready to go to work

on the way home, rear tyre ripped apart.. thought it was flat, so took it to servo to pump the tyre up but when i saw it, it was ripped badly!

got home, took the jack out, looked at it while scratching my head and going WTF?!?????
-_-!

at the end, ended up using my family car's jack!

-________________________-!

is it normal for the 1>2, 2>3 and 3>4 shift to feel loose/less solid at high rpms? as if the shifter just pops out more easily and slides into the next gear roughly.

Would having a lighter shift knob also help with shifting feel. Currently have a weighted blox ball. Feels nice when granny shifting but not at high rpm

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Originally Posted by JDM EP3

No need to beat or cut just make the holes bigger for the radiator support and move it forward and slightly make bigger the part where the latch closes past the rad support

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Any references or diagrams floating around the internet to locate these holes?

Kinda curious.

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Originally Posted by Poeter

Any references or diagrams floating around the internet to locate these holes?

Kinda curious.

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Im sure there is plenty floating around on EP3 forums, this ebay listing has a example of it

Thanks.

Have you done this mod on your ep3 too?

No not yet, would love to do it but funds arent really flowing at the moment.
Its a fairly unintrusive way to do this mod without cutting into the support.

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Originally Posted by brody

I know most people are saying.. get the RBC intake 'Bang for your buck!" etc. But I want something that is going to get me the gains (Obviously not much being N/A) and also have a well-known good quality brand that is going to hold its value when/if it came time to sell, and/or part out. I'm thinking Skunk2, been around for years and have great reviews across all vehicle makes. Any suggestions on other names would be greatly appreciated as I'd like to order it now while I'm away:) and have a little prezzie sitting at home when I get back:P

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Try this mate . . . http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/intak...vs-skunk2.html

Save your money and get the RBC. Did I mention the price?

Edit: The 'well known, good quality brand' you are buying here is one called 'Honda'.

Faarrk. I tried finding something like that but couldn't find anything hey. Thanks man:)

Totally disregard that other post.. it was some crazy guy, doesnt know what he's doing:P

Just ridiculous that they can be basically the same, and for $500 odd cheaper.

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Originally Posted by brody

Faarrk. I tried finding something like that but couldn't find anything hey. Thanks man:)

Totally disregard that other post.. it was some crazy guy, doesnt know what he's doing:P

Just ridiculous that they can be basically the same, and for $500 odd cheaper.

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It's more common than you might think mate, especially with cars that have a cult following like the EP3, people see a part all nice and shiny, and they assume they have to pay through the a$$ for it. Its not always the case. There are plenty of EP3 parts that do the same job as their very very very expensive counterparts for a reasonable price. Plenty.

hey guyth

i hate the feel of high rpm shifts, especially 2nd to 3rd. ive read discussions on how solid engine mounts improve shifting and general driving feel.

th ep3r is only a weekend warrior for the street, so between hasport and innovative engine mounts, which do you guys recommend. i dont mind the vibrations, i jsut want my high rpm shifts to feel smooth and slick.

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

hey guyth

i hate the feel of high rpm shifts, especially 2nd to 3rd. ive read discussions on how solid engine mounts improve shifting and general driving feel.

th ep3r is only a weekend warrior for the street, so between hasport and innovative engine mounts, which do you guys recommend. i dont mind the vibrations, i jsut want my high rpm shifts to feel smooth and slick.

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Im running Hasports as I heard the bushings in the innovative mounts starts to "oval out". Currently running 70a in the rear and 60 on the front and side.

when flooring it you can really feel the power going to the wheels. Solid base and cable shifter bushings also help with shifting.

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Originally Posted by UNA91

Im running Hasports as I heard the bushings in the innovative mounts starts to "oval out". Currently running 70a in the rear and 60 on the front and side.

when flooring it you can really feel the power going to the wheels. Solid base and cable shifter bushings also help with shifting.

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i heard the base and shifter bushings dont do much if anything at all. coming from ephatch and honda-tech forums

After driver red floormat or set anyone got or know where to buy

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Originally Posted by adam_jdmHEAD

After driver red floormat or set anyone got or know where to buy

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Try Honda original parts?

Arm and a leg I'd say plus they won't have it order in part from Japan probably don't even make anymore.

jdmconcept and the like can source it for you. unless your car is 30 years old there will always be OEM parts floating around. even brand new

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Originally Posted by brody

Faarrk. I tried finding something like that but couldn't find anything hey. Thanks man:)

Totally disregard that other post.. it was some crazy guy, doesnt know what he's doing:P

Just ridiculous that they can be basically the same, and for $500 odd cheaper.

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skunk2's been going through some hectic shizznit lately too. there was a massive incident on the k20a.org forums where they revealed that skunk2's been falsely advertising their parts AND how their parts have fked a number of peoples engines up etc. u might still be able to find it.
skunk2 also put a bounty for the personal information of the forum members who revealed this - this was on the k20a.org forum and on skunk2's site.

not sure about you but i wouldnt support a company like that regardless of the gains i can get!

anyone know what are the SR recaros in the ep3 04 models? looking for lowered rails but just dont know what version they are

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Originally Posted by Icebox

anyone know what are the SR recaros in the ep3 04 models? looking for lowered rails but just dont know what version they are

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From what I can tell, they are simply known as the Recaro "sport seat".

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Originally Posted by Symphorced

From what I can tell, they are simply known as the Recaro "sport seat".

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mhmm.. all i know is the seats in the ep3 models are all the same except for the two tone colour in the facelift, but im trying to figure out the edition we have so i can find the seat rails that match it =[ last thing on my mind is to get rails for the wrong seat waste of time and money

Email these guys, they might be able to confirm it for you.

http://www.capitalseating.co.uk/prod...&appid=76&rid=

Vanner tuners special lowered seat rail is pretty good.

For some reason I can't bring myself to buying headers for the EP3 lol. Being on a tight budget/student doesn't help either :\ It's just that I always hear the JDM K20 4-2-1 headers are known to have quite good flow already. I've already got an aftermarket cat-back and also what I think looks like downpipes that are not stock, since its larger diameter pipes and still looks in decent condition compared to the headers (old & rusty).

Maybe its just me, but generally ~$700 for race headers to gain maybe only 5-9hp unless i get a proper tune, which again I probably won't, could be something I could spend on maybe improving the handling of the car. Maybe I could just get a hi-flow cat...

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Originally Posted by UNA91

For some reason I can't bring myself to buying headers for the EP3 lol. Being on a tight budget/student doesn't help either :\ It's just that I always hear the JDM K20 4-2-1 headers are known to have quite good flow already. I've already got an aftermarket cat-back and also what I think looks like downpipes that are not stock, since its larger diameter pipes and still looks in decent condition compared to the headers (old & rusty).

Maybe its just me, but generally ~$700 for race headers to gain maybe only 5-9hp unless i get a proper tune, which again I probably won't, could be something I could spend on maybe improving the handling of the car. Maybe I could just get a hi-flow cat...

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High flow cat won't give you that much gains either though! But I guess it is a mod that is considerably cheaper than headers.

Yea heaps cheaper, but it's just a consideration lol, headers is something i've been thought about for a long time but just can't bring myself to getting one unless i get a tune, which again will cost abit. Might just look into getting thicker swaybars and upgrading the brakes

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Originally Posted by UNA91

Yea heaps cheaper, but it's just a consideration lol, headers is something i've been thought about for a long time but just can't bring myself to getting one unless i get a tune, which again will cost abit. Might just look into getting thicker swaybars and upgrading the brakes

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I got some PLM headers from BYP along with the exhaust that cost around $550 or so. To me it was a worthwhile upgrade even without a tune. Eventually I will get it tuned though.

Yea, the PLM headers was what i was originally looking at, just got other priorities to spend money on now days.

Looking forward to getting home from work next friday.
Have the following to install:
-RBC Intake Manifold.
-PLM Header
-Hardrace Camber Arms
-Hardrace Rear LCA's
... and finally able to put my new rubber on:D

so dam excited haha

ooo and my gauges (Hoping to fit them in my single din, with the holder I bought). I ebay presents.. even if I bought them myself:P

What do camber kits do? I've got some natural camber in the back from being lowered a fair bit but I'm not experiencing any problems like more tire wear or rubbing

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Originally Posted by UNA91

What do camber kits do? I've got some natural camber in the back from being lowered a fair bit but I'm not experiencing any problems like more tire wear or rubbing

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Helps you correct/adjust the camber. As you said, you currently have natural camber which is probably more negative than necessary.

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Originally Posted by brody

Looking forward to getting home from work next friday.
Have the following to install:
-RBC Intake Manifold.
-PLM Header
-Hardrace Camber Arms
-Hardrace Rear LCA's
... and finally able to put my new rubber on:D

so dam excited haha

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Wow, thats a nice little list mate. Keen to hear your thoughts on the RBC manifold. I'm trying to avoid any more purchases till I get to the track in a few weeks time cause I know I'm going to 'need' something after my track debut!

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Originally Posted by UNA91

Yea heaps cheaper, but it's just a consideration lol, headers is something i've been thought about for a long time but just can't bring myself to getting one unless i get a tune, which again will cost abit. Might just look into getting thicker swaybars and upgrading the brakes

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I was in the same dilemma as well. Ending up getting a white line rear sway. Handling feels much better.

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Originally Posted by bluey45

I was in the same dilemma as well. Ending up getting a white line rear sway. Handling feels much better.

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Where did you get it from and how much? I've got coilovers but looking at improving the suspension but also looking at not spending too much on the car.

Would you say it's a massive difference?

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Originally Posted by -JC-

Wow, thats a nice little list mate. Keen to hear your thoughts on the RBC manifold. I'm trying to avoid any more purchases till I get to the track in a few weeks time cause I know I'm going to 'need' something after my track debut!

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Yeh mate. Two more shifts and I'm home haha:D
Yeh will do dude. There's plenty of reviews on the RBC. Google knows all:P Quite a few guys on here have ran it for a while as well so they'll be able to give you a run down.

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Originally Posted by doosra

Where did you get it from and how much? I've got coilovers but looking at improving the suspension but also looking at not spending too much on the car.

Would you say it's a massive difference?

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I got my white line rear sway from a eBay seller RPS13 recommended for about $230 I think.
Since you already running coilovers the sway should improve your handling. I'm just running stock suspension but looking to replace my suspension later down the track.

For myself, I found that my rear stays where it is now under hard cornering and feels more planted and much less roll. But it could be I'm just a noob driver ahaha:p

Do you suffer from snap oversteer?

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

Do you suffer from snap oversteer?

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Doesn't snap oversteer occur more in mid ship engines eg mr2? Haven't heard it happen to anyone in a ff before

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Originally Posted by Icebox

Doesn't snap oversteer occur more in mid ship engines eg mr2? Haven't heard it happen to anyone in a ff before

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its one of the ep3r's chassis characteristics and ive personally experienced it.

never though i could fishtail a FWD, but had a brief moment where i thought i was keiichi tsuchiya and lost all realistic presence of mind.

will never, ever brake hard INTO a corner again

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

its one of the ep3r's chassis characteristics and ive personally experienced it.

never though i could fishtail a FWD, but had a brief moment where i thought i was keiichi tsuchiya and lost all realistic presence of mind.

will never, ever brake hard INTO a corner again

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as long as you dont spill your tofu m8

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Originally Posted by mocchi

as long as you dont spill your tofu m8

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no the tofu was actually previouisly spilt on to the tarmac by Tak, which may have contributed to what happened

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

its one of the ep3r's chassis characteristics and ive personally experienced it.

never though i could fishtail a FWD, but had a brief moment where i thought i was keiichi tsuchiya and lost all realistic presence of mind.

will never, ever brake hard INTO a corner again

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sounds interesting, but still wouldnt attempt that sounds a bit crazy and left for the tracks haha

but does sound like something i would wanna see if with my own eyes,

I experience a similar situation thought by car fark at one stage because I never happened on my previous fwd cars.

There's a video of this exact event happening to me at Natios. I'll upload it :) snap oversteer with worn semis in the wet after touching gravel. Fun!

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Originally Posted by Twest

There's a video of this exact event happening to me at Natios. I'll upload it :) snap oversteer with worn semis in the wet after touching gravel. Fun!

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Cool ill be looking foward to it, I read our cars are pron to under steer or was it the other way around LOL

prone to understeer like most FWD yet somewhat prone to snap oversteer.

what i did might not even be snap oversteer, could have just happened because i was heavy braking into a corner, weight transfer to the front while cornering.

Clarkson proved this when they tested the EP3 on Top Gear.

Thinking of getting some new wheels. Probably going for rpf1's. As I plan to get a brake upgrade sooner or later, what size wheel would you guys recommend.
Would +40, 45 be sufficient room for say a spoon calliper to clear?
Correct me if I'm wrong:)

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Originally Posted by brody

Thinking of getting some new wheels. Probably going for rpf1's. As I plan to get a brake upgrade sooner or later, what size wheel would you guys recommend.
Would +40, 45 be sufficient room for say a spoon calliper to clear?
Correct me if I'm wrong:)

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depends on width.

i had x7.5 +48 and it JUST cleared with 5mm spacers

currently have x9 +38 fronts and it clears fine

Im going for 8 or 8.5. 9 look pretty decent?

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Originally Posted by brody

Im going for 8 or 8.5. 9 look pretty decent?

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look nice, scrub everywhere

i gotta remove the plastic ferder lining.

scrub everywhere? haha you like that?
ahh ok.

i really rather they didnt, getting more camber and maybe removing the lining soon.

Hi guys,

I just got my EP3R a few days ago. Just wondering any recommendations on the best/reliable mechanics for EP3Rs?

Cheers!

top one, pro concept, hannys

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

i really rather they didnt, getting more camber and maybe removing the lining soon.

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add more camber. I have 1.5 and they sometimes scrub on the top of the wheel arch after I go over holes or bumps too hard.
Dont take the liner off watch all the dirt enter ypur engine bay from there.

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Originally Posted by JDM EP3

add more camber. I have 1.5 and they sometimes scrub on the top of the wheel arch after I go over holes or bumps too hard.
Dont take the liner off watch all the dirt enter ypur engine bay from there.

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fml.

dont want that happening, i could just about eat off my engine bay right now. shit deserves a photo on canibeat or something.

how much are you lowered? i have barely half a finger gap atm, scrubs on full lock. more severe in the left since i have positive camber but will be fixed next week.

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

top one, pro concept, hannys

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Thanks a lot mate!

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Originally Posted by Stanleythornes

Thanks a lot mate!

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ay bra is your last name tedjo?

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

fml.

dont want that happening, i could just about eat off my engine bay right now. shit deserves a photo on canibeat or something.

how much are you lowered? i have barely half a finger gap atm, scrubs on full lock. more severe in the left since i have positive camber but will be fixed next week.

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That's what happen to mind =(

Not in Sydney myself but I've had great experience with BYP before. Others also go to Hannys and Top One.

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

top one, pro concept, hannys

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Anyone goes to proconcept?

I'm curious to what they're charging for a simple oil change. I might give them a try since they're close to my work place.

I heard they do cornerweighing and wheel alignment.

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Originally Posted by mocchi

ay bra is your last name tedjo?

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nah bro. wrong person.

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Originally Posted by Perry

That's what happen to mind =(

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your engine bay or your camber?

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Originally Posted by Poeter

Anyone goes to proconcept?

I'm curious to what they're charging for a simple oil change. I might give them a try since they're close to my work place.

I heard they do cornerweighing and wheel alignment.

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i plan to, since they open saturday by appointment and top one closes at 12.30 on sat.

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

your engine bay or your camber?

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engine bay dirty asss

Hey guys EP3 meet next month!

http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthread.php?t=12144

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Originally Posted by butterfingers

fml.

dont want that happening, i could just about eat off my engine bay right now. shit deserves a photo on canibeat or something.

how much are you lowered? i have barely half a finger gap atm, scrubs on full lock. more severe in the left since i have positive camber but will be fixed next week.

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Yeah I have slightly less than two fingers gap on the front. Your too low tbh. I have no scrub at all on full lock even when I run the BBS with RE55's.

NGK IFR7G-11KS


NGK ZFR6FIX-11


NGK bkr7iex-11

Ive heard of people having issues when isntalling headers and exhaust and getting a CEL. I ran for about 500km without any codes after install, then I went to fix some leaks in the exhaust with some gasket sealer and then got a CEL straight away???
Any ideas if this will go away after the sealer dries?

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Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Ive heard of people having issues when isntalling headers and exhaust and getting a CEL. I ran for about 500km without any codes after install, then I went to fix some leaks in the exhaust with some gasket sealer and then got a CEL straight away???
Any ideas if this will go away after the sealer dries?

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Where exactly do you put the gasket sealer?

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

Where exactly do you put the gasket sealer?

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Its not near the sensors one is on the end on the mid pipe and then i have a wrap around a hole in the same mid pipe.

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Originally Posted by JDM EP3

Its not near the sensors one is on the end on the mid pipe and then i have a wrap around a hole in the same mid pipe.

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IC
the leak might have helped LOL

Are both 02 sensors currently located in the same position as stock and are they the same distance apart from each other?

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Originally Posted by Lukezen27

IC
the leak might have helped LOL

Are both 02 sensors currently located in the same position as stock and are they the same distance apart from each other?

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One O2 sensor is at the end of the headers and the other is on the test pipe.
The leak happened at sandown when I went over the ripple strip and put a small hole in the pipe, so I went to bursons and bought a heat activated wrap/resin that hardens with heat. Before the hole I had no CEL. As soon as I got to fixing the leaks yesterday I got the CEL could be the fumes or I could have hit the sensor. Either way Ill take it for a drive tomorrow and see if they are gone.

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Originally Posted by JDM EP3

One O2 sensor is at the end of the headers and the other is on the test pipe.
The leak happened at sandown when I went over the ripple strip and put a small hole in the pipe, so I went to bursons and bought a heat activated wrap/resin that hardens with heat. Before the hole I had no CEL. As soon as I got to fixing the leaks yesterday I got the CEL could be the fumes or I could have hit the sensor. Either way Ill take it for a drive tomorrow and see if they are gone.

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Yeah you might have damaged one..

I think people get the CEL light after new header and exhaust install due to the placement of the 02 sensors and the stock ECU to handle it

That IACV is great haha. Finally had time to clean mine out yesterday and now my surging is fixed:)
Now to run in that clutch!

Spotted white EP3 on mt lindsey highway, epk20, anyone here? lol

Anyone know how much fluid is required for a full brake and clutch flush? Also any recommendations as to what brand is good?

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Originally Posted by RPS.13

Anyone know how much fluid is required for a full brake and clutch flush? Also any recommendations as to what brand is good?

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Hey Mike for brakes you'll probably need around a litre... can't remember how much more I used for clutch though. Clutch bleed nipple is a major pain in the ass to get to too.

I'd recommend using Motul RBF600. Very pricey though!