Most squeaks have a source and a remedy, but none here yet.
My preference was to having the damping adjustment to fine tune to local roads for ride comfort.
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Most squeaks have a source and a remedy, but none here yet.
My preference was to having the damping adjustment to fine tune to local roads for ride comfort.
Hi I have recently lowered mine too (eibachs) need the shocks though...anyway I have had problems with drifting and camber bias to the right happened 5,000-6,000klm mark, still have the problem with camber bias (pulling to the right under camber more than normal), They (Honda Aust.) knocked back the offer of new tyres because of mod to suspension and now telling me that suspension warranty void....just letting you know what you may be in for if you do have drifting problem later....I am about to put my old springs back in my car to fight Honda Aust. over this issue....Patiance I say up until your 10,000 klm mark.
Hope this helps you
Read this thread before you decide
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22067
Congratulations on your purchase :D
I swapped my stock suspension for the Eiback/Bilstein setup 2 weeks from new and i've had NO problems at all.It is now 10 mths.16000klm.later.I also changed my tyres to Conti sport Contact 2s.I believe that the majority of these drifting/pulling issues are to do with the suitability/compatibility of these tyres(Bridgestone RE-O40)IMO the OEM tyres are CRAP.I suggest you change the OEM tyres while they are virtually new because you'll still get a good trade in on them.
tein ss all the way
My euro lux was new end November.
Never had drifting tendancies, only noticed slight tramlining on deep grooves. Switched to chrome stock size rims at 1k, after a wheel alignment check at the 1k service. All OK. Still running stock Bridgestone 225/45 17's
Lowered 2" on Tein SS a month later and haven't noticed any tramlining since.
So I haven't noticed any drift with stock tyres at all, the only difference is my offset is 45mm, so maybe increasing the track 20mm has helped.........who knows?
All helpful comments thanks guys.
Out of interest is the CL7 suspension setup much lower and is it advisable to slap them on the CL9?
If you lowered your car without installing a rear camber kit to get the camber back to spec, your car WILL pull to the right. Mine did after lowering by 25mm. My rear camber went to -3 and I had severe pulling to the right. I could take the right curve in the M5 tunnel without my hands on the wheel and steering set to being centered. In order to drive straight, I had to keep my hands on the wheel and had the steering wheel pointed slightly to the left. As a bandaid fix, I put 0.3mm more toe in on the right to reduce the pulling. I've got my camber kit and will set both my camber and toe back to factory specs and will report whether my pulling goes away after restoring the rear camber from -3 back to -0.5.
If you wanna spend more i can get you bolt-on air suspension for euro :)
For me its either the best set up or nothing.. and what i wanted was to lower my car without worrying about.. "ohhh its not low enough" or "damn it its too low" so i decided to go for a fully adjustable suspension with full ride height and damper adjustable. this way i wouldnt also have to worry about the car being too stiff or too soft. At first i wanted to get the Eibach and Bilstein set up, but then i also thought about getting a bodykit and 19 inch rims. there isnt much that i can do with the Eibach/Bilstein set up. so i had to choose carefully and decided to go with TEIN Flex. Cost alot more.. but its worth it. ive dumped my car by 2inch front and rear, appearance wise.. makes tha car look more sexy, the body sits right on top of the tyres. the handling? *2 thumbs up*
2" drop on flex with a bodykit. Wouldn't you be scraping the bottom of your car on the thin metal speed bumps in the shopping mall?