[CU2] Black car, what to do?

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Originally Posted by Muzzy

1- No I didn't read the fine print and it would be good if you actually explained why rather than being a smart a$$. :thumbdwn:

2- Unless you can prove to me that the protection coating will actually die in a few months I will remain confident that it is better to have the protection than not.

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1. WOW!!!! thats offensive dude... never thought my comment to help you actually make me beinga smart ass... :( You can pm a lot of people here who has tried the nano tech, nature guard, etc and not happy with them after a while. Regarding the fine print, one of them says that you need to regularly wash the car using their car wash product (not any other product, not even top of the range product from different brand) minimum forthnightly. Another said something like eventhough inspection is not needed, but you still need to bring back the car for inspection every 6-12 months otherwise the warranty will be void... Now, perhaps we are offered 2 diff thing from 2 diff dealer, so PLEASE do not quote what I said here to the dealer as a legal action (so I wont look like a smart ass for you or other people you talked to)

2. if you that confident, then no point asking your initial question here in the forum then... just trust the dealer mate... :thumbsup:

Anyway, all in all its your car, your decision. So hope you enjoy your purchase since its a great car!!! :thumbsup:

Paint protection is no better than a medium quality wax. Dealers sell it to make money full stop.
You will find in 4 to 6 months it will need a good detail. You will know when it is required as the water will stop beading on the paint when it rains, or when you wash it.

What Denot said is correct, not a smart ass comment.

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Originally Posted by denot

1. WOW!!!! thats offensive dude... never thought my comment to help you actually make me beinga smart ass... :( You can pm a lot of people here who has tried the nano tech, nature guard, etc and not happy with them after a while. Regarding the fine print, one of them says that you need to regularly wash the car using their car wash product (not any other product, not even top of the range product from different brand) minimum forthnightly. Another said something like eventhough inspection is not needed, but you still need to bring back the car for inspection every 6-12 months otherwise the warranty will be void... Now, perhaps we are offered 2 diff thing from 2 diff dealer, so PLEASE do not quote what I said here to the dealer as a legal action (so I wont look like a smart ass for you or other people you talked to)

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Thanks buddy, that was MUCH better explanation of why you didn't choose to go for it. Whereas initially I felt I was just laughed at!

Well I've already got the protection on there so I think I will just continue to use their product. I'm willing to get it serviced at the dealer for the first few times anyway so that's no issue as well. All a first time experience so it's going to be interesting how the dealer does the servicing, so far no complaints. Got a great deal and good service.

Cheers :thumbsup:

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Originally Posted by Muzzy

Thanks buddy, that was MUCH better explanation of why you didn't choose to go for it. Whereas initially I felt I was just laughed at!

Well I've already got the protection on there so I think I will just continue to use their product. I'm willing to get it serviced at the dealer for the first few times anyway so that's no issue as well. All a first time experience so it's going to be interesting how the dealer does the servicing, so far no complaints. Got a great deal and good service.

Cheers :thumbsup:

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Glad we sort out our differences there Muzzy :) Anyway, let me know the what you think about the Nature Guard after a few months. keep us informed mate :thumbsup:

Count your losses, learn from the experience and get yourself a good quality paint cleaner & sealant, add some elbow grease and you will get a far better job done then you will from a dealer

I have to relate this one - Right after I signed on the line for my black CL9, they sent the 'paint protection' lady over to try and sell me a fancy expensive sealant coating. Notice how it's always a lady that the paint protection people use to peddle their wares? They definitely prey on the new car owner's emotional state towards their shiny new car at the time of sale to make a buck.

She held in her hands a binder with miraculous 'before' and 'after' shots... But the most hilarious thing was the binder's cover. One side was clean, the other looked brown, crusty and rusty! I laughed out loud when I saw that. First she offered a $2000 (!!) 'permanent' package, but when that was declined, she offered a $400 'paint protection' treatment, which I suspect was just some standard paint sealant.

As I sternly refused all her sales pitches, her parting shot was, "Well, don't complain when your car looks like this in 6 months time!", indicating the rusty side of her folder! Hadn't laughed so hard in ages, I think she was offended...

Oh... And my black car still looks as good as the day it rolled out of the factory, almost 2 years later.

Trouble with sealant is, if your car ever needs even minor paint repairs, you have to send it back for re-application of the 'protection' coat as well - although this is usually free. Reputable body shops will usually ask you if you have paint protection.

My wife had paint protectant on her previous red car - and you'd never know, the paint faded and oxidised just as fast, if not faster. Even after they re-did it, it faded again within 12 months. I had a 20 year old red Accord that looked better than her car.

Paint protection and sealant will reduce the clarity and brilliance of black paint, and you risk the dealer doing damage if you get them to apply it. You will still need a topcoat of wax for black to look its best and for metallic flakes to stand out, or it doesn't look as dark, and looks like it's wrapped in cling film. The less you do to black paint, the better it will look.

Best option for black is to garage it, and wash it carefully with good quality wash using a microfibre wash mitt, and dry with microfibre towels using a quick detailer spray to lubricate. Avoid using any pressure on the paint, just glide across it while washing. At the very least, you should wax it every few months when it needs it.

You can apply a sealant yourself that will last 6 months or so, eg Klasse All In One, then top it in wax. The metal flake might not look quite as clear/brilliant, but the shine will last a lot longer than wax alone. If you go this route, you will also need a paint cleaner/clay bar to prepare the paint when you reapply the sealant. It's essential that the paint is squeaky clean before you apply a sealant.

Keep a microfibre towel and quick detailer in the boot, for any bird dirt that hits it. Bird dirt can mess up your paint, protectant or not, but sealant does reduce the chance that it will burn into your paint, or might buy you some more time before it does so. Don't take the risk, get rid of it as soon as you see it.

If you don't have a garage, spare yourself the hours of cleaning and don't get black, or learn not to mind it looking grotty 90% of the time, for the 10% of the time when it looks brilliant.

- HZ

Thanks for the help there HZ!!! A quick note regarding your comment here:

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Originally Posted by HunterZero

Best option for black is to garage it
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If you don't have a garage, spare yourself the hours of cleaning and don't get black, or learn not to mind it looking grotty 90% of the time, for the 10% of the time when it looks brilliant.

- HZ

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The purpose of this thread when I start it is coz I bought myself a black car and atm I'm staying in the place where I cant use the garrage (it full of stuff). So I want a help from ppl on how to maintain the looks of the car. Its kinda too late for "do not buy black if you dont have garage" suggestion.

But I'm happy with your suggestion regarding sealant and all, as Buddah told me (again and again) Paint protection/Sealant and top it of with a great Wax/Polish will be the best option for me... cheers!!! ^_^

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Originally Posted by denot

Its kinda too late for "do not buy black if you dont have garage" suggestion.

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Haha! Whoops.

Ah well.

Don't leave it dirty after rain for more than 1 week. Wash every 2-4 weeks as it needs it carefully to avoid fine scratches as described using the double bucket method, washing top to bottom and wash wheels/weel arches last with a separate mitt/sponge, and get some quick detailer for drying and to touch up between washes for problem spots/bugs/bird doo, and you'll be fine.

Remember every time you wash it, you'll wear a bit of sealant/wax off, and there's a small chance you'll add small scratches to the paint. If you find you are washing more often, you'll have to re-apply the sealant sooner. Don't skimp on the paint cleaner step when time comes to re-do the sealant, the paint should feel as nice as the day you bought it before applying more sealant.

Pretty soon you'll find a wash/cleaner/sealant system that you're happy with and enjoy using. It seems everyone has a personal preference. Modern clear coats are a lot more durable than uncoated paint surfaces of old.

But I will say, a clay bar is magic for removing tree sap and other crap that bonds to the paint, and restoring that nice smooth feel to the paint prior to sealant.

The "WOW!" factor just after you wash a black car is well worth it.

- HZ

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Originally Posted by HunterZero

Haha! Whoops.

Ah well.

Don't leave it dirty after rain for more than 1 week. Wash every 2-4 weeks as it needs it carefully to avoid fine scratches as described using the double bucket method, washing top to bottom and wash wheels/weel arches last with a separate mitt/sponge, and get some quick detailer for drying and to touch up between washes for problem spots/bugs/bird doo, and you'll be fine.

Remember every time you wash it, you'll wear a bit of sealant/wax off, and there's a small chance you'll add small scratches to the paint. If you find you are washing more often, you'll have to re-apply the sealant sooner. Don't skimp on the paint cleaner step when time comes to re-do the sealant, the paint should feel as nice as the day you bought it before applying more sealant.

Pretty soon you'll find a wash/cleaner/sealant system that you're happy with and enjoy using. It seems everyone has a personal preference. Modern clear coats are a lot more durable than uncoated paint surfaces of old.

But I will say, a clay bar is magic for removing tree sap and other crap that bonds to the paint, and restoring that nice smooth feel to the paint prior to sealant.

The "WOW!" factor just after you wash a black car is well worth it.

- HZ

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I do things in reverse as recommended by most professional detailers - Wheels & wheel arches first using 2 old wash mits. That way the water isn't drying on your paint while your doing the wheels. Then start with a clean bucket to do the car top to bottom.

I do wheel n tyres wth sponge and the body with microfibre mit... one thing I forgot is to use seperate bucket for each :(

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Originally Posted by denot

I do wheel n tyres wth sponge and the body with microfibre mit... one thing I forgot is to use seperate bucket for each :(

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Denot, try using a 1:10 solution of degreaser / water to spray your wheels & inside wheel arches before you start, makes it a lot easier. Also go to a bunnings store and get a few small round spounges on the end of a long plastic handle, great for doing inside the rims, you are able to get to the inner edge of the rim with no problem

Bunnings Warehouse! Where lowest prices are just the beginning... if you happen to find a similar stocked item at a cheaper price, we'll beat it by TEN percent!

Sorry, just couldn't resist posting that. Did I just waste $6 on my MF towels at Bunnings? Saw the el-cheapo towels for $2 each and grabbed 3 but they just seem so thin? Where can I get the think plush ones for a reasonable price?

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Originally Posted by nickxau

Bunnings Warehouse! Where lowest prices are just the beginning... if you happen to find a similar stocked item at a cheaper price, we'll beat it by TEN percent!

Sorry, just couldn't resist posting that. Did I just waste $6 on my MF towels at Bunnings? Saw the el-cheapo towels for $2 each and grabbed 3 but they just seem so thin? Where can I get the think plush ones for a reasonable price?

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Very True....Bunnings sell crap, but our local store sells small round spounges on the end of a 6" plastic handle, great for cleaning inside wheels. Only last about 4 wash's, but @ $3 each who cares.

Cheap good quality Micro Fiber towels ..... no such thing. Go to your local Auto shop or order online @ waxit.com.au along with all your quality detailing needs. Damm ......... They are out of stock on there great glass cleaner.

Hi there, another Euro owner reporting in. I believe this is my very first post in this forum (and in this thread), and while I have been earnestly reading nearly every thread about this fantastic car, I have never felt as compelled to post something in this thread till my car suffered a scuff on the left rear passenger door while trying to manoeuvre out of my garage this morning!!! I wont be going into the details of what happened just so that I wont seem to be hijacking this thread, but more importantly I would like to inform you guys that I ALSO OWN A BLACK EURO!!! Ok Im new here so I dont even have pics to show yet and nothing on my avatar, but I hope to be able to share the little knowledge I have got and to learn from you guys.

Anyway, I bought my Euro Lux in mid January, which was an Ex demo from a dealer in Brisbane. I went for black because it was the only Lux demo available in that colour and I also thought it looked awesomely beautiful. And as what someone mentioned here, I too was approached by a beautiful blonde who convinced me to get paint protection for my beautiful black car! No, her binder wasnt rusty this time. After telling me what good the paint protection will do for my car and the lifetime warranty, I was sold. Ended up paying something like $500+ (discounted apparently) for the paint protection and another $300+ for leather interior protection. The idea was that the car will be coated with what seems to be teflon and the paint will be as smooth as a Tefal non-stick frying pan.

Well it wasnt all bullcrap to be frank, or maybe it has only been just 2 months. The surface does feel smoother than non-paint protected surfaces, and washing and removing any dirt/poo from the surface is like lifting a sunny-side up egg from a non-stick pan. Easy and nice. As to how long it will stay on the paint surface? Only time will tell. Lifetime warranty! Yes there's the fine print of risking losing the warranty if you do not wash the car frequently enough AND if you do not use THEIR car wash solution. Oh and also, you are NOT allowed to wax your Teflon coated car. Didn't realise till I reached home and read the print. What am I using to wash my car now? It's called Sparkling Wash by this company called Poly Glaze which all of you would know is available from any Super Cheap Auto. A chamois to wash and rinse, and another Turtle Wax microfibre cloth to dry (NO streaks left behind!). Do this once a fortnight as my car is always garaged and parked in undercover parking in the hospital I work.

So there's the possibility of the 'Teflon' coating coming undone with time as some of you have said here. I could live with that and get them to redo it since its lifetime warranty. But the bigger problem I have now which I never realised is, what if the car needs paint work done?!!! The fresh area will be without paint protection isnt it? So will this void the warranty for the other protected areas? If yes do you need to add in the cost of protecting the little area that got re-sprayed? I will be taking shots of my cars left rear door which got scuffed and see what you guys say about doing it up later. Quote for fixing the little dent at the left rear door panel (the panel between the left rear door and wheel arch) plus paint work is $411. Excluding potential cost for paint protection of that area. Point is, is paint protection a scam or a real lifetime solution to tiresome waxing/sealing???

You judge that for yourself as time passes. If you have read all the threads, googled paint protection systems, you should already have a good idea. Just remember as soon as water stops beading on the paint your protection is gone.

Hopefully they do a good repair job for you.

avantgarde84, sorry to hear about your 'incident'.

To remove the scratches, at the very least they are going to have to abrasively re-buff the paint, if not respray the affected panels. For the price they've quoted, I'd imagine the scratches aren't deep and they won't need to respray, they're just going to pop the dent out and buff out the scuffs? Either way, any sealant/protectant on the surface will be gone in that area.

You'll need to check with the people who did your paint protection about re-application in that area and any associated cost, but usually they'll do it free of charge for you.

At less than 2 months, it's way to early to tell if it has made any long term difference, since even a coat of wax (which is the least durable) will last that long and should still bead water and make your car look great after a wash, especially if the car is kept undercover almost all of the time. Off-the-shelf sealants will last 6-8 months or so, and since you garage your car and keep it undercover, I'd say this will make the biggest difference, so it could be 12 months before you notice any difference with such products.

Anyway, time will tell. Best of luck!

- HZ

Actually I did asked the dealer before regarding this... And the response...
1. If I purchase the Honda Insurance, then the paint protection is included and will be reaply when I make a claim
2. They offer me another product which will fix any small damage to the car and paint protection (cant remember the name, coz I'm not really interested at all) She show me some before and after pics of small section of cars with paint protection with scratch, etc If I purchase this "insurance" product.

Well... all the best with the fix mate...

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Originally Posted by avantgarde84

After telling me what good the paint protection will do for my car and the lifetime warranty, I was sold.

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The chick was hot, wasn't she? They sucked you in good!!!!

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Originally Posted by avantgarde84

Ended up paying something like $500+ (discounted apparently) for the paint protection and another $300+ for leather interior protection.

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Fark me dead! :eek:

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Originally Posted by Type R Positive

The chick was hot, wasn't she? They sucked you in good!!!!

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HAHAHA, the one who offered me the product was hot as well!!! Lucky I went and sit together with my wife :p Save me another $1200!!! XD

Yeah, the $2000 I was quoted was for some complete paint, interior and rust protection package. Could not believe how much they were asking! Especially considering that improvements in clear coat technology means they are more durable so sealants/waxes are not really as necessary as they used to be on paint without clear coat, and all cars are treated for anti-corrosion at the factory.

- HZ

NEVER buy that paint/leather carpet protection from the dealer.It's soooo overpriced.All they do is outsource it to companies that you and i can buy it from at about a quarter of what they charge you.If you really want that crap go to one of those places and at least you'll save some money.:thumbdwn:

I've never heard of leather protection actually, and can't see how this could ever work?

But for the fabric protection - scotchguard - can be brought at any Woolies or Coles for like $5 a can! ;)

Well I never actually heard of paint protection for black vehicles until the day I signed the contract to buy the Euro, so I never got the chance to even go home to think about it or do a Google search or post a thread up this forum to get some advice. It was all happening so fast on the late Saturday afternoon, and already being ecstatic about owning the car I guess I just wouldnt bear let my new baby suffer any potential damage (at least that's what the salesgirl said would happen if I didnt get the protection). The leather protection thing is basically to say that if there were any butt (yes your bum) marks or signs of wear from sitting on the seats they will somehow replace the worn leather seat. There are also few common causes of leather seat wear that this treatment protects again, and on hindsight this actually sounded more plausible than the paint protection. Well well like it or not money already paid, just gotta suck it up I guess.

Anyway back to the paint story... Yes the scuffs on my left rear door arent deep at all. After using turpentine to remove the green paint (which came from my f***ing neighbours car's bumper) from my door and rims, all I have left now are white streaks which I believe is the undercoat beneath the black paint. Then there is the dent, which I may be able to turn a blind eye as it's not really that obvious. Its the white streaks that make the dent stand out. Solution? Rang Honda to ask about the touchup paint, only had the Night Hawk Black from the CL9 but none in stock for the CU2. Ordering stock for me, arriving next Tuesday. Will try touching up the white areas and put up pics. And obviously I should be putting up the Before pics soon. It's $20+ for a 15ml touch up paint bottle btw.

The white you are seeing is most likely the scratched clear coat, unless it's obviously scratched down to metal. Clear coat turns white when it gets stressed, just like plastic does. You can test how deep the scratches are by gently running your fingernail over them. If your fingernall clicks/catches, then the scratch is deep. If it only catches barely or not at all, then it's possible the scratch hasn't broken the clear and can be buffed out. You'll probably find up to 90% of the scuff can be buffed out - or all of it if you're lucky. You can then get paintless dent removal done on the dent, cost about $60-$80 per panel.

Touch-up paint will never look as good as a proper repair, especially on a side panel where it can be easily seen. But on metallic paint, if the paint is scratched through the clear, they're going to have to strip and re-do the entire door. Not sure what is the going rate for this in your area, but in Sydney it's about $800.

Do yourself a favour, forget about trying touch-up paint until you've taken it to a reputable detailer at a body shop to see if the scratches can be machine buffed out. You'll at least minimise the amount of touch-up paint required for it.

If it needs it, and you decide to go the respray route, you'll get the best results if the paint shop uses Glasurit or PPG paint.

- HZ

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Originally Posted by avantgarde84

Well I never actually heard of paint protection for black vehicles until the day I signed the contract to buy the Euro, so I never got the chance to even go home to think about it or do a Google search or post a thread up this forum to get some advice. It was all happening so fast on the late Saturday afternoon, and already being ecstatic about owning the car I guess I just wouldnt bear let my new baby suffer any potential damage (at least that's what the salesgirl said would happen if I didnt get the protection)...

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Hey mate, actually thats the exact same situation... late Saturday (shook hand of salesman @ 6.30PM) and then being pushed by the sales girl for the protection untill almost 8. But I asked her time to think and decide on delivery date (which she agrees) but on the date, I'm avoiding her :p

Alright, a picture paints a thousand words, or at least i think.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/9154/img0351a.th.jpg

Doesnt really look too bad from a distance...

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/5373/img0356.th.jpg

Close up shot, note the band of streaks starting from the door edge. And I didnt paste the black tape at the bottom part of the door panel, was there from the start.

http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/4640/img0358.th.jpg

Another shot facing the front of the car...

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/5930/img0366s.th.jpg

This is the ONLY shot which shows the horizontal dent. Surprisingly enough, the door is perfectly spared, only a 3cm dent across the door panel near the wheel arch (whatever you call that part).

http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/6931/img0374.th.jpg

Another close up shot, which really doesnt give the impression of the scuffs being deep enough to be called scratches. And it really isnt deep at all when I run my fingernails across the 'scars'.

http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8015/img0378f.th.jpg

And the $$$ damage...

Cant really make out what on earth the guy wrote on the quotation, but from what he told me the price includes flattening out the dent with some device which will cause the surface of the paintwork to be stripped, then getting a coat of paint back on. He mentioned that the door handle will have to come off, which make me think if it's gonna be a re-spray. Tell me what you guys think, will appreciate any input to help me solve this problem. As it is I am inclined to just get the touchup paint and cover up the white marks, and leave the dent there. $400 is too much I reckon.

Ouch. Door might be able to be saved, but the skirt looks like the paint has been knocked off on the raised corners.

That respray quote seems quite cheap. They will clear coat it? How much area are they respraying?

If they respray only the affected area, you will likely get noticeable halos in the clear afterwards where the old paint meets the new paint. This is the trouble with black paint. This is why I'm saying to do it properly they have to do entire panels, or find somewhere inconspicuous where they can 'lose' the join between the old and new paint.

Did Honda recommend the repairer? What paint system do they use? I would steer clear unless they used Glasurit or PPG paint and clearcoat to ensure a good paint match, the paint on Hondas is very high quality.

- HZ

Yup I first went to Honda, they told me they dont do body work and recommended me to this shop which is called Paintless Dent Removal Pty Ltd. Went over to see the boss, seemed like a real nice guy and had lots of corporate fleet cars in his workshop for paintjobs. Anyway yes, the quotation was from a Honda recommended repairer. The boss told me not to worry about having patches apparently they will do a good job and no one will tell the difference. The impression I got is that the left rear door plus the rear panel (where the fuel door is) will get repainted/re-sprayed. Not sure what kind of paint though, might check that out.

But I suppose the other issue is with the paint protection re-application for that newly re-sprayed area. Might cost some money and definitely time, and is something to consider if I go with the option of doing it up professionally AND paying the $400. Would like to hear more opinions about what I should do though.

And if I seem to be hijacking this thread someone do inform me... Just thought since this thread is about the dilemmas facing black cars my situation would fit pretty aptly.

Make sure you mention the paint protection to the repairer, they might be able to sort it out for you - but check whether there will be a cost, and what the cost will be.

The dent removal process alone should not necessitate repainting if it's done right - hence Paintless Dent Removal. But the trick with getting out dents is they have to be able to get behind the dent to get it out. If they can't reasonably get behind the dent, then they may drill holes! Check if they are planning on doing this... Don't be afraid to ask the technician to explain the techniques they're planning on using.

Might be wise to get a couple of other opinions too - but it depends how fussy you are.

- HZ

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?

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Originally Posted by furythree

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?

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spider webs from washing perhaps.

learn to detail your car. :thumbsup:

Just returned from the Paintless Dent Removal workshop to clarify the work for the $400 repair price tag. Apparently due to the difficult location, the dent removal cannot be done paintless. After the dent gets flattened out using a special tool (which strips the paint at the contact points where the tool would sit on the surface), the whole left rear door plus the panel where the fuel door is at will be re-sprayed. Then the shiny surface coat will be put on, inclusive for that price I was quoted.

As for paint protection, apparently the boss was advising me and other customers to only re-apply paint protection after at least 3 weeks after re-spraying the panel because it takes about that time for the paint's solvent to completely dry out and not interfere with the paint protection. Anyway to re-apply the paint protection over the left rear door and left rear panel is $50, which brings the total to $460 to get it back looking new...

Still trying to convince myself if I should/should not spend that money to do up the scuff marks. Keep looking at all sorts of angles to see if it really is that bad or noticeable that would require the repair.... Any other suggestions/comments from you guys?

wats detail?

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Originally Posted by avantgarde84

Just returned from the Paintless Dent Removal workshop to clarify the work for the $400 repair price tag. Apparently due to the difficult location, the dent removal cannot be done paintless. After the dent gets flattened out using a special tool (which strips the paint at the contact points where the tool would sit on the surface), the whole left rear door plus the panel where the fuel door is at will be re-sprayed. Then the shiny surface coat will be put on, inclusive for that price I was quoted.

As for paint protection, apparently the boss was advising me and other customers to only re-apply paint protection after at least 3 weeks after re-spraying the panel because it takes about that time for the paint's solvent to completely dry out and not interfere with the paint protection. Anyway to re-apply the paint protection over the left rear door and left rear panel is $50, which brings the total to $460 to get it back looking new...

Still trying to convince myself if I should/should not spend that money to do up the scuff marks. Keep looking at all sorts of angles to see if it really is that bad or noticeable that would require the repair.... Any other suggestions/comments from you guys?

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Post some pics and we'll be able to give you a better idea of which way to go.

Hey tony, press the "<" button on the bottom of the page (next to "<< First" button and you should see avantgarde84 post with pics :p

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Originally Posted by furythree

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?

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A good detail should bring it up like new again

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Originally Posted by denot

Hey tony, press the "<" button on the bottom of the page (next to "<< First" button and you should see avantgarde84 post with pics :p

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Ah ok i see them.:o
Must be blind.

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Originally Posted by avantgarde84

Just returned from the Paintless Dent Removal workshop to clarify the work for the $400 repair price tag. Apparently due to the difficult location, the dent removal cannot be done paintless. After the dent gets flattened out using a special tool (which strips the paint at the contact points where the tool would sit on the surface), the whole left rear door plus the panel where the fuel door is at will be re-sprayed. Then the shiny surface coat will be put on, inclusive for that price I was quoted.

As for paint protection, apparently the boss was advising me and other customers to only re-apply paint protection after at least 3 weeks after re-spraying the panel because it takes about that time for the paint's solvent to completely dry out and not interfere with the paint protection. Anyway to re-apply the paint protection over the left rear door and left rear panel is $50, which brings the total to $460 to get it back looking new...

Still trying to convince myself if I should/should not spend that money to do up the scuff marks. Keep looking at all sorts of angles to see if it really is that bad or noticeable that would require the repair.... Any other suggestions/comments from you guys?

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I'm pretty fussy about my Euro so I would definetly pay the $460 to get it repaired like new. I guess it depends how fussy you are...

Have a crack at trying to get the paint damage repaired yourself by detailing the area, it's worth a shot first.

Yeah, I am actually pretty inclined to get it repaired properly too, just the inconvenience of having the car left in the workshop overnight and of course the $$$ for the job. Will be getting the touchup paint this coming Tuesday, will give it a go and see if that helps divert attention from the actual dent. Just thought once the obvious scuffs are painted over the damage wont be so noticeable. But of course I hope there wont be any obvious colour tone difference. Are there any things that I should be looking out for when attempting to paint over the areas? My idea is to just give the area a good thorough wash and dry, then touch up the damage areas...

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Originally Posted by avantgarde84

Yeah, I am actually pretty inclined to get it repaired properly too, just the inconvenience of having the car left in the workshop overnight and of course the $$$ for the job. Will be getting the touchup paint this coming Tuesday, will give it a go and see if that helps divert attention from the actual dent. Just thought once the obvious scuffs are painted over the damage wont be so noticeable. But of course I hope there wont be any obvious colour tone difference. Are there any things that I should be looking out for when attempting to paint over the areas? My idea is to just give the area a good thorough wash and dry, then touch up the damage areas...

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That's what I'd do.

It might be worth while posting a thread in the car/detailing section with your pics. There's a guy called Dave that is extremely knowledgeble in this area and he'll be able to give you some very sound advice.

Not to mention others that probably don't look under the Euro forums.

Wonder if any of these processes actually work of it's a hoax... Anyone even seen this before or even tried it? Still there are quite a few comments that reported success...

http://www.wisebread.com/remove-car-...ly-and-cheaply

I think that you could remove most of the scratches on the door by hand with some mild scratch remover (eg Meguiars Ultimate Compound, ScratchX 2), then finish with a finer finishing polish (eg SwirlX, 205 Ultra Finishing Polish or Meguiars Speed Glaze 80). You'll at least reduce the appearance of the other scratches, but removing deeper scratches completely without a machine buffer will take forever. Then you can touch up whatever deep scratches are left if you choose.

But it's a near-new car, it's worth repairing properly IMHO.

Yes, definitely a good idea to wait a few weeks to allow repaint to cure before re-applying any wax, protectant or sealant.

- HZ

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Originally Posted by furythree

hey ive been noticng alot of REALLLLy light scratch marks. like randomly long lines appearing on my door. obviously someone or something caused them, but theyre like in really wierd positions that look like a door cudnt have done it, and a person would have been a midget to "brush past" against it.
its a volcanic grey car. so only noiceable up close.

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It's likely these are microscratches from washing it improperly, or with a dirty sponge/chamois. They show up more on dark coloured cars like yours. What do you wash/dry the car with? Did you wash the car in the sun?

To prevent further scratches from appearing when washing, you need to change your wash procedure.

First, throw away any existing sponges and chamois you have.

A chamois seems good for drying a car and cleaning the paint, but they tend to pick up grit left on the surface and drag it across the paint which leaves fine scratches.

Always wash in the shade. Rinse the car thoroughly. Remove any bug bodies, eg from the front.

Get yourself a good microfibre (will last longer) or lambswool wash mitt and good car wash like Meguiars NXT wash or Mothers California Gold, and two buckets - one for soap, and one with plain water to rinse the mitt with after you take it off the car, before you go for another dunk of soap. Wash from top to bottom, and wash wheels using a SEPARATE wash mitt/sponge.

Next, get a stack of good microfibre towels, and some quick detailer spray. To dry the car, mist with the quick detailer to help lubricate the towel and wipe down the car. Keep turning the towel as you work, and swap to a new towel regularly.

When you wash microfibre, DON'T use fabric softener with it.

If the car gets really dirty, you'll feel that the paint gets 'gritty'. You'll need a clay detailing bar (google it) and/or paint cleaner to properly clean the paint of contaminants and return it to feeling smooth.

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Originally Posted by furythree

would waxing and stuff protect it from light scratches? wax is like a spray or something right? or something in a tub you rub on?

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Wax has fairly minimal protection properties, it's mostly for show. Although it does offer some protection against water marks, and stops some road grime from sticking.

You can get paint cleaners and swirl removers that will lessen or remove the swirls, then you can get a paint sealant that offers a bit more protection. The sealant will typically last several months then you have to reapply.

You should ONLY apply wax or sealant after you've properly cleaned/polished/prepared the paint.

Meguiars or Mothers California Gold are good lines of products to start with, or you can get 'enthusiast' kits on the web from: http://www.waxit.com.au

Or you can pay someone to detail your car for you when it gets too scratched. ;)

Welcome to the joys of keeping a car looking nice. It can take a fair bit of work, but the results are enjoyable.

- HZ

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Originally Posted by HunterZero

Wonder if any of these processes actually work of it's a hoax... Anyone even seen this before or even tried it? Still there are quite a few comments that reported success...

http://www.wisebread.com/remove-car-...ly-and-cheaply

I think that you could remove most of the scratches on the door by hand with some mild scratch remover (eg Meguiars Ultimate Compound, ScratchX 2), then finish with a finer finishing polish (eg SwirlX, 205 Ultra Finishing Polish or Meguiars Speed Glaze 80). You'll at least reduce the appearance of the other scratches, but removing deeper scratches completely without a machine buffer will take forever. Then you can touch up whatever deep scratches are left if you choose.

But it's a near-new car, it's worth repairing properly IMHO.

Yes, definitely a good idea to wait a few weeks to allow repaint to cure before re-applying any wax, protectant or sealant.

- HZ

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Hey thanks for your advice mate. Yea the scratches on the door arent deep at all, they appear like the tail end of a comet in the sky and I reckon using that scratch remover would help. Then there is the other bigger scuffs on the panel at the wheel arch that I will use the touchup paint to repair. Will try all the DIY possibilities before surrendering and letting the pros handle it. I could DIY the scuffs myself including polishing it myself than have the paint protection guys do the job for $50. Will put up the same pics in the detailing section for their advice. If my repair job comes good will surely put up After pics for you guys to see.... Now to Supercheap Auto for the scratch removers...

my advice..

Park far FAR FARRRRR away from supermarket parking places...
keep it clean as much as you can...

Use a microfibre mit and buffin clothes... (they are the Shit)

i got myself a new Autoglym chamois and im in love =D its got holes and sucks up the water well even on the first go...

Refer to link =D
AutoGlyme Aqua Dry

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Originally Posted by BraXta

my advice..

Park far FAR FARRRRR away from supermarket parking places...
keep it clean as much as you can...

Use a microfibre mit and buffin clothes... (they are the Shit)

i got myself a new Autoglym chamois and im in love =D its got holes and sucks up the water well even on the first go...

Refer to link =D
AutoGlyme Aqua Dry

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Where did you get the Autoglym chamois from?

AUTTTOOOOOOO ONE !!!


lol... in wollongong they just started stocking them... also they finally got Mother Clay bars too =D (next on list)

Hey guys, I have a couple of very fine scratches (feels smooth to touch), I'm using a pure polish applied by hand and working it in until it breaks down and cleaning it off with some car detailing spray and drying with a microfiber towel.

Only problem is it removed some of the very fine scratches but a couple still remain. Is it just a case of using a more abrasive polish or is my above method flawed?

I know applying via machine would probably increase my chances of removing the very fine scratches rate but I don't have one atm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BraXta

i got myself a new Autoglym chamois and im in love =D its got holes and sucks up the water well even on the first go...

Refer to link =D
AutoGlyme Aqua Dry

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NOOOOOOOOOOOOO! Scratches! :eek:

Try microfiber drying towel. They work sweet with no scratches. ;)

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Originally Posted by Joystick

Hey guys, I have a couple of very fine scratches (feels smooth to touch), I'm using a pure polish applied by hand and working it in until it breaks down and cleaning it off with some car detailing spray and drying with a microfiber towel.

Only problem is it removed some of the very fine scratches but a couple still remain. Is it just a case of using a more abrasive polish or is my above method flawed?

I know applying via machine would probably increase my chances of removing the very fine scratches rate but I don't have one atm.

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Try Some Meguiars Scratch X as a start, if that doesn't rectify the problem machine buffing would be the next option

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Originally Posted by buddah51au

Try Some Meguiars Scratch X as a start, if that doesn't rectify the problem machine buffing would be the next option

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Buddah, is using Scratch X fix swirl mark? or should I go with the paint repairer suggested by you?

I have never tried using Scratch X for removing swirl marks so I cant give a positive or negative answer

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Originally Posted by denot

Buddah, is using Scratch X fix swirl mark? or should I go with the paint repairer suggested by you?

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I used some scratch x with my random orbital last week.
It worked pretty good. I haven't tried it by hand though.

Note that Meguiars ScratchX has been discontinued. It has been replaced with ScratchX 2, which is more abrasive than the old one. There's another new product called SwirlX, which is less aggressive than ScratchX 2, but still a bit more aggressive than ScratchX.

I have some ScratchX and it works great by hand. It's very mild.

- HZ