[CU2] Black car, what to do?

[buddah51au]

Count your losses, learn from the experience and get yourself a good quality paint cleaner & sealant, add some elbow grease and you will get a far better job done then you will from a dealer

[HunterZero]

I have to relate this one - Right after I signed on the line for my black CL9, they sent the 'paint protection' lady over to try and sell me a fancy expensive sealant coating. Notice how it's always a lady that the paint protection people use to peddle their wares? They definitely prey on the new car owner's emotional state towards their shiny new car at the time of sale to make a buck.

She held in her hands a binder with miraculous 'before' and 'after' shots... But the most hilarious thing was the binder's cover. One side was clean, the other looked brown, crusty and rusty! I laughed out loud when I saw that. First she offered a $2000 (!!) 'permanent' package, but when that was declined, she offered a $400 'paint protection' treatment, which I suspect was just some standard paint sealant.

As I sternly refused all her sales pitches, her parting shot was, "Well, don't complain when your car looks like this in 6 months time!", indicating the rusty side of her folder! Hadn't laughed so hard in ages, I think she was offended...

Oh... And my black car still looks as good as the day it rolled out of the factory, almost 2 years later.

Trouble with sealant is, if your car ever needs even minor paint repairs, you have to send it back for re-application of the 'protection' coat as well - although this is usually free. Reputable body shops will usually ask you if you have paint protection.

My wife had paint protectant on her previous red car - and you'd never know, the paint faded and oxidised just as fast, if not faster. Even after they re-did it, it faded again within 12 months. I had a 20 year old red Accord that looked better than her car.

Paint protection and sealant will reduce the clarity and brilliance of black paint, and you risk the dealer doing damage if you get them to apply it. You will still need a topcoat of wax for black to look its best and for metallic flakes to stand out, or it doesn't look as dark, and looks like it's wrapped in cling film. The less you do to black paint, the better it will look.

Best option for black is to garage it, and wash it carefully with good quality wash using a microfibre wash mitt, and dry with microfibre towels using a quick detailer spray to lubricate. Avoid using any pressure on the paint, just glide across it while washing. At the very least, you should wax it every few months when it needs it.

You can apply a sealant yourself that will last 6 months or so, eg Klasse All In One, then top it in wax. The metal flake might not look quite as clear/brilliant, but the shine will last a lot longer than wax alone. If you go this route, you will also need a paint cleaner/clay bar to prepare the paint when you reapply the sealant. It's essential that the paint is squeaky clean before you apply a sealant.

Keep a microfibre towel and quick detailer in the boot, for any bird dirt that hits it. Bird dirt can mess up your paint, protectant or not, but sealant does reduce the chance that it will burn into your paint, or might buy you some more time before it does so. Don't take the risk, get rid of it as soon as you see it.

If you don't have a garage, spare yourself the hours of cleaning and don't get black, or learn not to mind it looking grotty 90% of the time, for the 10% of the time when it looks brilliant.

- HZ

[denot]

Thanks for the help there HZ!!! A quick note regarding your comment here:

Best option for black is to garage it
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If you don't have a garage, spare yourself the hours of cleaning and don't get black, or learn not to mind it looking grotty 90% of the time, for the 10% of the time when it looks brilliant.

- HZ

The purpose of this thread when I start it is coz I bought myself a black car and atm I'm staying in the place where I cant use the garrage (it full of stuff). So I want a help from ppl on how to maintain the looks of the car. Its kinda too late for "do not buy black if you dont have garage" suggestion.

But I'm happy with your suggestion regarding sealant and all, as Buddah told me (again and again) Paint protection/Sealant and top it of with a great Wax/Polish will be the best option for me... cheers!!! ^_^

[HunterZero]

Its kinda too late for "do not buy black if you dont have garage" suggestion.

Haha! Whoops.

Ah well.

Don't leave it dirty after rain for more than 1 week. Wash every 2-4 weeks as it needs it carefully to avoid fine scratches as described using the double bucket method, washing top to bottom and wash wheels/weel arches last with a separate mitt/sponge, and get some quick detailer for drying and to touch up between washes for problem spots/bugs/bird doo, and you'll be fine.

Remember every time you wash it, you'll wear a bit of sealant/wax off, and there's a small chance you'll add small scratches to the paint. If you find you are washing more often, you'll have to re-apply the sealant sooner. Don't skimp on the paint cleaner step when time comes to re-do the sealant, the paint should feel as nice as the day you bought it before applying more sealant.

Pretty soon you'll find a wash/cleaner/sealant system that you're happy with and enjoy using. It seems everyone has a personal preference. Modern clear coats are a lot more durable than uncoated paint surfaces of old.

But I will say, a clay bar is magic for removing tree sap and other crap that bonds to the paint, and restoring that nice smooth feel to the paint prior to sealant.

The "WOW!" factor just after you wash a black car is well worth it.

- HZ

[buddah51au]

Haha! Whoops.

Ah well.

Don't leave it dirty after rain for more than 1 week. Wash every 2-4 weeks as it needs it carefully to avoid fine scratches as described using the double bucket method, washing top to bottom and wash wheels/weel arches last with a separate mitt/sponge, and get some quick detailer for drying and to touch up between washes for problem spots/bugs/bird doo, and you'll be fine.

Remember every time you wash it, you'll wear a bit of sealant/wax off, and there's a small chance you'll add small scratches to the paint. If you find you are washing more often, you'll have to re-apply the sealant sooner. Don't skimp on the paint cleaner step when time comes to re-do the sealant, the paint should feel as nice as the day you bought it before applying more sealant.

Pretty soon you'll find a wash/cleaner/sealant system that you're happy with and enjoy using. It seems everyone has a personal preference. Modern clear coats are a lot more durable than uncoated paint surfaces of old.

But I will say, a clay bar is magic for removing tree sap and other crap that bonds to the paint, and restoring that nice smooth feel to the paint prior to sealant.

The "WOW!" factor just after you wash a black car is well worth it.

- HZ

I do things in reverse as recommended by most professional detailers - Wheels & wheel arches first using 2 old wash mits. That way the water isn't drying on your paint while your doing the wheels. Then start with a clean bucket to do the car top to bottom.

[denot]

I do wheel n tyres wth sponge and the body with microfibre mit... one thing I forgot is to use seperate bucket for each

[buddah51au]

I do wheel n tyres wth sponge and the body with microfibre mit... one thing I forgot is to use seperate bucket for each

Denot, try using a 1:10 solution of degreaser / water to spray your wheels & inside wheel arches before you start, makes it a lot easier. Also go to a bunnings store and get a few small round spounges on the end of a long plastic handle, great for doing inside the rims, you are able to get to the inner edge of the rim with no problem

[nickxau]

Bunnings Warehouse! Where lowest prices are just the beginning... if you happen to find a similar stocked item at a cheaper price, we'll beat it by TEN percent!

Sorry, just couldn't resist posting that. Did I just waste $6 on my MF towels at Bunnings? Saw the el-cheapo towels for $2 each and grabbed 3 but they just seem so thin? Where can I get the think plush ones for a reasonable price?

[buddah51au]

Bunnings Warehouse! Where lowest prices are just the beginning... if you happen to find a similar stocked item at a cheaper price, we'll beat it by TEN percent!

Sorry, just couldn't resist posting that. Did I just waste $6 on my MF towels at Bunnings? Saw the el-cheapo towels for $2 each and grabbed 3 but they just seem so thin? Where can I get the think plush ones for a reasonable price?

Very True....Bunnings sell crap, but our local store sells small round spounges on the end of a 6" plastic handle, great for cleaning inside wheels. Only last about 4 wash's, but @ $3 each who cares.

Cheap good quality Micro Fiber towels ..... no such thing. Go to your local Auto shop or order online @ waxit.com.au along with all your quality detailing needs. Damm ......... They are out of stock on there great glass cleaner.

[avantgarde84]

Hi there, another Euro owner reporting in. I believe this is my very first post in this forum (and in this thread), and while I have been earnestly reading nearly every thread about this fantastic car, I have never felt as compelled to post something in this thread till my car suffered a scuff on the left rear passenger door while trying to manoeuvre out of my garage this morning!!! I wont be going into the details of what happened just so that I wont seem to be hijacking this thread, but more importantly I would like to inform you guys that I ALSO OWN A BLACK EURO!!! Ok Im new here so I dont even have pics to show yet and nothing on my avatar, but I hope to be able to share the little knowledge I have got and to learn from you guys.

Anyway, I bought my Euro Lux in mid January, which was an Ex demo from a dealer in Brisbane. I went for black because it was the only Lux demo available in that colour and I also thought it looked awesomely beautiful. And as what someone mentioned here, I too was approached by a beautiful blonde who convinced me to get paint protection for my beautiful black car! No, her binder wasnt rusty this time. After telling me what good the paint protection will do for my car and the lifetime warranty, I was sold. Ended up paying something like $500+ (discounted apparently) for the paint protection and another $300+ for leather interior protection. The idea was that the car will be coated with what seems to be teflon and the paint will be as smooth as a Tefal non-stick frying pan.

Well it wasnt all bullcrap to be frank, or maybe it has only been just 2 months. The surface does feel smoother than non-paint protected surfaces, and washing and removing any dirt/poo from the surface is like lifting a sunny-side up egg from a non-stick pan. Easy and nice. As to how long it will stay on the paint surface? Only time will tell. Lifetime warranty! Yes there's the fine print of risking losing the warranty if you do not wash the car frequently enough AND if you do not use THEIR car wash solution. Oh and also, you are NOT allowed to wax your Teflon coated car. Didn't realise till I reached home and read the print. What am I using to wash my car now? It's called Sparkling Wash by this company called Poly Glaze which all of you would know is available from any Super Cheap Auto. A chamois to wash and rinse, and another Turtle Wax microfibre cloth to dry (NO streaks left behind!). Do this once a fortnight as my car is always garaged and parked in undercover parking in the hospital I work.

So there's the possibility of the 'Teflon' coating coming undone with time as some of you have said here. I could live with that and get them to redo it since its lifetime warranty. But the bigger problem I have now which I never realised is, what if the car needs paint work done?!!! The fresh area will be without paint protection isnt it? So will this void the warranty for the other protected areas? If yes do you need to add in the cost of protecting the little area that got re-sprayed? I will be taking shots of my cars left rear door which got scuffed and see what you guys say about doing it up later. Quote for fixing the little dent at the left rear door panel (the panel between the left rear door and wheel arch) plus paint work is $411. Excluding potential cost for paint protection of that area. Point is, is paint protection a scam or a real lifetime solution to tiresome waxing/sealing???

[buddah51au]

You judge that for yourself as time passes. If you have read all the threads, googled paint protection systems, you should already have a good idea. Just remember as soon as water stops beading on the paint your protection is gone.

Hopefully they do a good repair job for you.

[HunterZero]

avantgarde84, sorry to hear about your 'incident'.

To remove the scratches, at the very least they are going to have to abrasively re-buff the paint, if not respray the affected panels. For the price they've quoted, I'd imagine the scratches aren't deep and they won't need to respray, they're just going to pop the dent out and buff out the scuffs? Either way, any sealant/protectant on the surface will be gone in that area.

You'll need to check with the people who did your paint protection about re-application in that area and any associated cost, but usually they'll do it free of charge for you.

At less than 2 months, it's way to early to tell if it has made any long term difference, since even a coat of wax (which is the least durable) will last that long and should still bead water and make your car look great after a wash, especially if the car is kept undercover almost all of the time. Off-the-shelf sealants will last 6-8 months or so, and since you garage your car and keep it undercover, I'd say this will make the biggest difference, so it could be 12 months before you notice any difference with such products.

Anyway, time will tell. Best of luck!

- HZ