where can i get one from $$? and will it fit to my t28?
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where can i get one from $$? and will it fit to my t28?
Search for 92-95 Honda Civic GReddy KitQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
they come out of that kit and fit the GT28 perfectly
mm browse the for sale
i thoguht i saw one
ok will do. so when people refer to the GT28 thats the same as the T28 yeah? :S
"GT" is garrett's new series of turbos, in terms of fitment they are the sameQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
look for a used Greddy manifold. or, lately on ebay ive seen cast iron manifolds with T25/T28 flange. for manifolds with an external wastegate flange, all you need is a block off plate, which you can also find on ebay...
would i be better off keeping my T28 with internal wastegate and get a block plate, or could i make it exteranal??
> so when people refer to the GT28 thats the same as the T28
yes ... and no.
T28 refers to an older model of turbos by Garrett.
It's a hybrid consisting of a T3 compressor and T25 turbine.
The turbine flange dimensions from the T2 family of garret turbos.
GT28 refers to a newer, ball bearing design turbo, which is intended for similar capacity motors.
The better aerodynamics and ball bearing construction result in significantly better spool characteristics.
The GT2860 has a 60mm compressor wheel like the T28 & T3 and would do nicely.
The GT2876 is 76mm and significanty larger.
The older T28 is probably closer to the new GT25XX series or even a smallish GT2259, for D16 applications.
Nick.
GT does not mean ballbearing. Its the 'r' on the end that means roller ballbearing, but your right the GT range is newer and supose to spool faster than the older T series
Some of the GT range also come out in bush bearing.
Running internal gate is cheaper & fine for smaller application.
External gates are better & more precise especially when more power is being applied but comes at a cost of being more expensive
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Nah hes right dude GT does mean its ball bearing in most cases. GT2860 is a gt28r. They are the same turbo, one is the HKS naming convension and one is the garrett/nissan naming. But Garrett also uses GT2860 on there site so it does get a little confusing. in the GT2840/50/60 and so on series they are usually all T or GT28's but on different model nissans. S15, s14, gtir N14, GTR turbo's.
its really had to explain down to a T because there are soo many names with so many numbers thrown everywhere. Different housing and different wheel conversions also make different GT28 series.
GT just really stands for the Newer series of dual ball bearing turbo's made by garrett.
I'm sure if you purchase the manifold it will come with a block off adaptor plate, if not it looks like a generic 1.5inch 2 bolt exhaust flange which im sure any exhaust shop will have somethign to block it off with. Also i havent looked into the Greddy cast iron manifolds myself but i know that ive only ever once heard of a cast iron manifold breaking so im sure your going to be pretty safe with the ebay ones even if you wanna get them over the greddy. I know the Greddy ones are going to cost you around 300-400 where you can get the cast iron ebay ones for like $100 delivered. Thats just something to look into i guess if your on a tight budget...Quote:
the wastegate. my turbo is a T28 and has internal wastegate so do i just cover that hole if i purchase a manifold like the one above.
So the greddy manifolds are good stuff?
maybe some of the guys on here have had some experience with both the ebay and the greddy cast iron ones and they might be able to tell you the up and downsides to both.
the only thing i can memba is that kat chuckin on kerims axs or sumthin kit n it needed sum heavy customising. wasa bitch to do.
Ok so far this is what i have in mind:
Garrett T28 turbo with internal wastegate.
GReddy turbo manifold/ebay cast iron turbo manifol.
OBD1conversion with chipped P28
Ebay intercooler and piping/Good used lot
BOV
RC Injectors and fuel pump.
Custom Exhaust system and dump pipe.
Upgraded rods - maybe eagle...
Good Tune for street.
What else is ther to be looking at so i can boost my D series engine?
my 2c n expQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
Dont worry about the upgraded roads for now. Focus on your turbo setup and your stock motor will be good for 8-10psi if tuned correctly. Upgrade on the rods can be a decision down the track. Upgrading roads atm is going to cost you alot
Turbo setup sounds great so far...you will have to look at water and oil lines. You can do a cheap setup and get some heavy duty sard High temp silicone tubing and some banjo bolt connections. Or you can get some custom braided setup. I believe Lukenzen bought a kit you can buy. I actually got all my braded stuff custom made myself but other options will work just as good.
you will need a boost gauge of some sort to monitor whats going on.
you will also need a decent boost controller. On the D series you dont want any spikes or else 10psi can turn to 11 and then motor finished...like what happened to luke.
If your planning to run the stock wastegate pressure what ever that is on the t28 you may not need a boost controller.
Cant think of anything else atm. if and when you get the oil and water lines i got pics i can show you how to set them up and where to plug those into the motor to get water and oil feed.
sorry also just remember your going to need to customise your Sump. The dump for the oil on the turbo needs to go into the side of the sump so you can either make a tap fitting with some industrial hose pluggings like on lukenzens build or you can get something custom welded into it like i did. Check pics on my build thread if you need to find out what i mean.
Sorry haha 1 more thing..your going to need an oil line feed reducer to 0.6-1mm. This will stop to much oil/oil pressure blowing the seals on the turbo. Honda motors have more oil pressure than Nissans so the nissan turbo needs the reducer.
Anything else just give me a shout.
Yep like Fo55il said. Dont go with the ebay piping. It wont fit at all, had a mate who had issues. The china intercoolers do the job fairly good tho, just get that and while your getting your exhaust setup made custom, get the guy to make 2.75 inch mandrel bent intercooler piping setup done at the same time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
BOV - as fo55il also said, not necessary. BOV's are good to keep the backforse pressure pushing back through the turbo (flutter noise) this isnt that great for turbo's over time. But at the PSI you will be running it wont cause that much issue. To be honest Flutter noise sounds better than BOV anyways and its legal.
WOW thats alot of information there lol i will do some reading up in my spare time
another thing ive been hearing from a few people locally is that i gunna have to lower my compression or something like that for the turbo ???
there are a few ways of doing this. You might have to ask lukenzen or limbo to see what they did with there old D series turbo setups. Some keep the stock compression and run 8psi fine with it. The advantages of lowering the compression is that you will loose a little power on the stock motor but gain alot on being able to put more boost in the motor. I dont think the stock D series rods can handle over 11psi even if you lower the compression.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
Lowering the compression can be done the proper way by buying new low comp pistons, they come in may different compression ratios to suit what setup you want. Mine are 9:1 my stock motor is 10.4:1 i believe. So this allows me to boost it quit a bit.
You can also lower you compression the make it do way by buying an extremely thick head gasket basically bringing the gap between the head and the block apart thus creating more air in the chamber between the piston and the top of the head = less compression. Im not to sure how much you loose on it but i wouldnt say it wouldnt be more than .5
Lowering your compression also causes less torque/power before boost comes on so streetablity slowely goes out the window. I dont find it to bad but some people have 8:1 comp ratio. That why alot of guys on here buy B series motors and keep the stock high comp ratio and boost it as much as they can on the stock setup. Thus giving them there stock NA power + boost.
I had it like that once apon a time ago and its much nicer to drive as a daily street car.
WTF people
I got my piping off eBay US and never looked back..
Its now on its second boosted motor :thumbsup:
Nothing a dremil can't fix...
Yer i originally got my piping off ebay also. Whats good about the setup i got is the piping came complete all in stainless steel and i got it for really cheap. Under $100 delivered...
But that was 4 years ago or more and these days they only have that cheap alluminium crap that bends really easy.
With my piping setup tho it wasnt even close to fitting. But lucky i had some extra silicone grommets and a angle grinder. I had almost half of the piping in left overs from off custs in the end. Then i plugged it all up the way i wanted it and found to many leeks in the grommets so now i only have 4 of the silicone joins all up. 2 on the front mount, one on the intake and one on the turbo.
alright guys have a look at this GT
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...2_727264_4.htm
Journal bearing
If it has an R then its ballbearing
look at the main garrett site
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ochargers.html
if you notice the GT2860 is available in journal bearing which is used in the GTRs
That's why some of them change to GT2860RS.
A Guide To Garrett’s "GT" Model Numbers
GTxxyyzz:
Positions "xx" refers to the frame size of the turbine wheel inducer.
For example the "GT28" in "GT2860RS" refers to its turbine wheel frame size family. All GT28 units use a turbine wheel with 53.85mm inducer diameter
As a rule of thumb, the larger the number, the larger the turbine wheel.
Positions "yy" designate the compressor wheel exducer (major) diameter in millimeters
The "60" in the GT2860RS example above has a 60mm compressor wheel exducer diameter.
Note: Wheel sizes 100mm and over omit the "1" (hundreds digit)
Example: the 02 in a GT4202 refers to its 102mm compressor wheel exducer diameter
Positions "zz" may be used to designate special features of a particular turbocharger where applicable
Example: GT2860RS
"R" = this is a Ball Bearing unit
"S" = used for units which require some differentiation from units in the same family
Compare a GT2860R to a GT2860RS. While both are ball bearing and externally similar, the GT2860RS is better suited for higher-flow applications than the GT2860R. In this case, the S reflects the higher-flowing nature of the GT2860RS
straight from garrett
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...gt_basics.html
ahk well how much are a set of good low comp pistons and what ratio would i run or is it not worth doing this and keeping it stock and running 8Psi...?
as i said before...doing the rods means a rebuild, so does the pistons. it will cost alot if your not doing it yourself. If your doing it yourself you could do rod's, pistons, bearings, rings, full gasket/seal rebuilt kit, new oil and water pump, your looking at $1700 if you do the work yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
Trust me its not worth it. your going to get more than enough with it running 8psi on high comp setup. When you crack your motor apart its never the same again. Leave the engine oem and just push it as much as you can safely.
Ahk so just keep most things stock and get it tuned well so it can run safely.
Because the T28 from Kerim is 2nd hand should i take it to a shop and get it looked at ?
it needs to be clocked also but ive read its not hard to do and i could do it myself..
Nah if kerim's legit...dont know him to much myself but others might. Its should be ok. You can feel shalf play with your hand. if you turn or try to rock the turbine with your hand you should be able to feel shaft play...it will wobble around.
Otherwise if it spins freely it should be all good.
Clocking is piss. loosen 4-6 13mm bolts holding the compressor housing on and just turn the thing around to the position you want to setup your intercooler piping to connect to it.
just loosen the bolts do not take them out otherwise you may damage the fins if u don't know what to do
P.S i never had a turbo D but i helps with builds of some.
Most just do a stock engine with turbo. If your new, i'd only run about 8PSI which will net you about 109kwatw.
a good turbo for the D is a GT28R or a GT28 both can be had from s13-s15 turbos.
Usually can be had for about $500, new is like $1300.
I helped with a build with a D16y4 and it ran well with a GT28R
Things to check for, fins with no damage, & zero shaft play (.5mm movement is normal even on a new turbo)
ahhh i thought u had a D...prolly thinkin of someone else...Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Yeh the GT28r's are good they been selling for aroud $700 but my bloody one wont sell cos of the welded internal gate..soo annoying.
that's an easy fix you can get a dead t28 and replace the rear housing
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFwd
Hmmm yeh i thought about that but didnt know if it was too much effort. Rather just get rid of it for $500 at this point...i might put a wanted "dead t28" thread up just for an option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Would be a good option for jiztec cos he already has the t28.
yeah check out ebay sometimes dead turbos can be had for $50-$100
Or even the nissiansilivia site
exhaust housing is even easier than the compressor side
Sorry but what would be a good option for me? :S
So 109kw at wheels approx for my setup?? :S
Whats the potential of tthe T28 in my D series. say for instance down the track i want more kw, which im sure i will, what is a realistic goal and would it be hard to achieve - like what parts and stuff?
thanks..
Read my old build thread :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79182
wow that was a long read. i read ALL of it lol.
120kw daily would be good.
electronic boost controller and 2.5inch system with RC iinjectors and fuel pump would be good choices yeah.
just a matter of time...
YupQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
Char
if you wanna make 120kws well i'd go for a GT28r not just a T28 bush
u wanan make serious gains?? peakboost kit fuk greddy they are crap..
do internals push 12-15psi daily tuned!!
i can always change over the turbo if the T28 is not satisfying cant i...just for my first turbo i'll be happy with the T28 and alot more than stock gains.. better turbo after first setup gets old and boring lol
like mikeyG says go peak boost. i did and im happy. still need to get tuned next week to gain a few more.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyG
wats d main diff between greddy n peak?
wouldnt it just matter on the motor tho?
apart from a faster spool depending on d turbo
im not getting a greddy kit anyways im piecing together my own
that question was for my curiosity lol. HIJACK
anyone know much about these manifolds???
http://www.justjap.com/store/product...roductid=16646
anything helps...
looks like a standard cat iron one. doesn't look too bad, jsut be carful it fits a/c & p/s if you still want those thing
i had one of those, it cracked after about a year.
You cracked a cast iron manifold?Quote:
Originally Posted by A.C.S DRAG
Impressive :p
400psi
run 500psi den start braggin
Lol ns hey.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
i've only seen cast iron crack where there are fractures in the cast.
A good cast will almost never crack unless it is heated really hot and hit water or something semi cold
am i able to run a stock turbo manifold say off a GTiR or a Silvia so on...???
NoQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
Char
no, you need a turbo manifold specifically for a D16.
i was at just jap yesterday and saw the cast iron manifold there it looks good and if i didnt have a manifold i would just run with that :)
the D-series cast iron manifolds are fine, will do the job fine for an internally stock engine. hell, ive even seen em on 300whp D's...
yep, and after a year of my hi boost setup, it cracked.
Hi boost. what was the psi?
i dont plan on running anything above 10
Ohh well if thats the case dont do a forged setup then....stick with a high comp stock internal setup.
you cant go past 10psi anyway, stock MAP sensor only goes upto 10psi...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
I also suggest you stay under 10, maybe 8 would be more suitable...
luke ran 11PSI with stock map sensor.
I think the stock map sensor is limited to 1 Bar, which is about 12 or 14 PSI i can't rem.
The reason u've come up with 10PSI is cos most people limited it to 10psi to ensure that it is reliable and without issue
Na the E-manage has map clampingQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Once the map clamp is turned on the stock map dose not see any boost at all so you can run whatever you like..
Which also means the E-manage boost cut-off dose not work and why my setup blew up
Would a missing link do the same thing though??Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
85-91 MAP stops responding after 9.25 psi, 92+ after 10.65 psi. Taken from HT...Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
1 bar = 14.5psi...
What's a missing link?Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECnique
Mod to allow the map to handle boost?
Does the Power FC come with an apexi map sensor?
I didnt install my ECU, and ive never really looked at my map sensor properly.
that might be why im leaning out after 10psi? or is this just the D series were talking abot
Yeah same for D & B manQuote:
Originally Posted by FastFwd
But you get a warning light if the map see's to much boost
nah PFC does not come with map sensor, its optional
Ok but if i still have my map sensor plugged in, its possible its activated on my Power FC correct?
A missing link is used so the ECU doesnt see boost. So that means if the ECU doesnt see boost, neither does the MAP (i think).Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
IMO just buy a 2.5 bar MAP sensor...Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFwd
Yer? you can buy those?Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECnique
where from? and are they generic item to be customized to fit into your throttlebody? or will they fit in the stock honda mounts?
Xenocron for the 2.5 bar MAP sensor, & i believe it fits in the stock MAP sensor case aswell...Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFwd
the PFC uses ur stock map to read boost
Okay so im gunna get a chipped P28 ecu and OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness from XENOCRON. its like $300 without shipping.. what else do i need in regards to my fuel management. Chrome, neptune??? are they the programs that run it?
Yeh but doesnt it only read 10psi?Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
When you go to order the chipped ecu, because your also getting basemaps, you have to describe the motor setup, also which program to use. I would opt for neptune cause i know a few tuners in australia use it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jiztec
For now i would go down to 9psi til you can get a new map sensor. & if the PFC uses the stock MAP, the stock MAP is still seeing boost. unless you can fit something like luke suggested so the MAP doesnt see boost...Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFwd
i always thought it was 1 bar
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastFwd
well correct me if im wrong, but arent the honda MAP sensors 1 bar? just because the MAP is 1bar, doesnt mean it can hold 1 bar of boost. a 2.5bar holds about 25psi...
nah 1 bar is 14.7PSi apparently
I made my own thread about this so i stopped hijacking this thread but for people who are confused CRXer summed this up well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer