Yeah not badQuote:
Originally Posted by Killa From Manila
Yup 2" but the gas should still be hot enough at that point to not need anything bigger I think..
Yeah not badQuote:
Originally Posted by Killa From Manila
Yup 2" but the gas should still be hot enough at that point to not need anything bigger I think..
Wow, nice.
I was expecting around 120kW with 2.5" exhaust, around 7-8 psi, tuned on e-manage
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by 1996ek1
Yeah wounder how she'll got now with VTec and 2.5" :p
Are you getting a full 2.5", or 2" downpipe with 2.5" catback ?
Not to sureQuote:
Originally Posted by 1996ek1
I'll have to think about it
I say go full 2.5!
Althought shouldnt you have got it tuned after you get the exhaust done?
Yeah you should..Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996ek1
Its my understanding that when the gas leaves the manifold hot it can go through smaller spaces thus you can go from say 2" to 2.5" as the gas cools down it expands...
Not sure how true this is but that's what heat wrap on heaters dose, keeps em hot to the gas moves faster...
Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
Luke
Hot shit is usually more expandedQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Thats why they tell u to keep deoderant outta the sun
hey, nice build, i cant wait for mine.
i've got a 2.5" exhaust system, its piss quiet, not even loud on boost either.
ends with a cannon muffler.
However Im upgrading to 3", if your interested, let me know. I'll pull it out for you, you should feel gains straight away with a bigger exhaust system.
Yeah but that's compressed already..Quote:
Originally Posted by aimre
Header wrap list's the benefit of using the wrap is that the wrap keeps the header hot and increases gas flow..
Quote:
Header wraps are designed to keep the heat in the header to improve scavenging of the cylinders. Keeping the heat in the header allows the exhaust speed to remain high. (the right idea)
it helps scavenging and it keeps the heat in the engine bay lower.
I've wrapped my dump pipe. That's also part of the issue why its not done yet
On a turbo setup, the bigger the exhaust and dump pipe the better. ie a 2.5-3" dump and exhaust would see you make some decent gains.
Yeah I might have to do that..Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy rooster
It dose feel like I'm missing out on power somewhere lol
hey dude i'll give you a ride in mine this sat if you want i'm gonna go see adrian to tune her up.
Just fired her up today and she purrs great. Can't tell it hasn't been tuned.
But it does have a turbo base map :)
I got all my exhuast done to 2.5"
Sweet broQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Good to hear man :thumbsup:
I'm books for next week final tune 2nd
Let me know how she goes
What boost ECU are you running?
Its a big drive for me anyway lol
running PFC.
Turned on AC & stuff also and it didn't miss a beat.
Might need to change the BOV spring through cos it seems abit off.
Since i plumbed back it had an extra spring but i think i'll go back to the original spring
i shall see you thereQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
lol.
Dang its all on out at Adrian's lolQuote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
Its booked in!
We'll see how much the little bugger gets.
I'll do a write-up of it when i'm done.
Performance Exhaust has done quite alot of work on it but there is a few more things i got to put on like
- Engine suspension
- new rotor cap & rotor
- new brace
- low temp therostat
what power are you hoping for?Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
as much as i can get cos i'm greedy HAHAHAHAHAHAHA.
So long as the engine is safe
Well thats the safe limit on your motor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
apparently 10PSI but i'll prob opt for going 9PSI just to be abit more safe
i've been running 10psi for at least 1 year, no problems
b18c2
how much power are you putting out destrukshn? and what turbo you using?
160kw atw. @10psi
a tiny t28bb.
but, gonna start rebuilding my motor soooon.
lol.
Nice one destrukshn :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
I'll be happy with 120 safe tune :p
120kw should be more than enough, in a lightwight chassis.
i put my foot down in 2nd, and it will spin, 3rd, sometimes will spin.
No0o0o0o0 i have a 2''Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
did it cos i like cars quite as hell but...
worse mistake ever :(
its so restrictive that my exhaust acts as a boost controller ..
too much back pressure
max boost i can run with the 2'' is a tad under 7 psi
Maybe that's why my spring can't hold 9 psi?Quote:
Originally Posted by gReY-oNe
I'm installing a turbo smart bleed valve this weekend and we will see lol
LMAO tell me how that goes :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
pretty interesting to know
cos i have a t piece thats unblocked
which is ment to be blocked but so far no boost spikes and stuff
cos i wanted to just run of the external gate spring also no boost controller just in case u get greedy LMAO
and my tuner and fabricator said it wont run anymore then 7psi cos of back pressure SAD!! :(
get a new exhaust
I'll let you knowQuote:
Originally Posted by gReY-oNe
I'm on 9pis now till about 6K RPM then 6 to 7 hits only 6psi
i told you a long time ago dude to get the 2 1/2"
let me knowif you want a recommendation on a place.
Performance Exhaust did most of my conversion and exhaust system and its a beauty
Yes i can vouch for performance exhaust. They did our 2.5inch exhaust for a decent price. Happy with the quality.
Mandrel or press bent?Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
Update
My car dose have VTec its just not accessible through e-manage lol
Still working fine via the standard ECU
As I assumed coze there's no way my car should make 116kw at 6 psi without the help of VTec?
Just used this little trick :thumbsup: thanks to bungsai
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...highlight=VTec
Luke
you have to get mandrel, press is just crap
maybe a new ECU would be good also
cos with my car you can see a jump when vtec kicks in.
vtec + boost lots of fun!
Na e-manage works just fine with my setup...Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Yeah I'll be going mandrel if I can afford it lol
VTec on DOHC has far more impact than on the SOHC motors
good thread... :D
subscribed keep it up guys
my ej8 is goin turbo soon :D
solid numbers....my mate used to own a turbo d16y8 made 130 kw atw. Wasn't to bad.
That's the magic number I'm aiming for 130kw :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
Anything above that is sure to kill the motor fast :o
Your comments really stuggle with me sometimes. You say things as facts that are completely false??? I dont get it.... Stop thinking your a baller. Run 1bar on that tiny turbo. And take that stupid head-sheild filter off, its robbing you of lots of power. They are designed for NA ricers who keep getitng pulled over and defected. They flow like a bee's dick. I know u want to be legal, take 1hr of time and make yourself and airbox. 100kw is nothing to be proud of, its like saying a b16a is fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Ouch!Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
Weq if you read my update a few pagers back I'm @ 116.5 wheel KW @ only 6 psi
I do hear you man but I passed my Engineering Certificate and blue slip with that stupid thing and I hate having to deal with cops..
I have looked into custom air boxes down the track but right now I'm saving for Laos in Julie
Not sure what comments completely false?
You think I should use the pod this weekend at retune with my boost controller?
Luke
The coment that Over 130kw kills ur car.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Stock it should take 160-170 bewfore things start becoming a game of chance
Unfortunatly (no offence, but..) luke's car is abit rice, Big body kit, 17s and a large hatch spoiler is sure to grab some attention.
But still, if ur engineered, its as easy as 1,2,3 to clear e defect
Oh I seeQuote:
Originally Posted by aimre
160-170 I'm loving that idea, at the wheels?
I thought the D16's could only handle 200HP at the fly but 160+ is amazing for such a small motor but good news none the less
Yup aimre spot on with my problem rice = cops.. something I want to avoid if at all possible.
Sorry to anyone for the misleading info
Luke
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Just pull the filter off on the dyno.
200-220 atw. People cant get figures at the engine. Welll they can but with great dificulty.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Most of the power figures people quote online are atw, unless its manufacturers. No average joe is gonna pull an engine out just to dyno it.
lol kooksQuote:
Originally Posted by aimre
75 / wheel power times 100 =
That's for anyone that needs it :p
to calculate engine power figure? there's a little more to it than that i'm afraid. though it might give you a rough idea..
Everything between the flywheel and the dyno roller affects your ATW power figure. That includes your driveline, gearbox (including gear selection), and your wheel diameter and weight, tyre grip and inflation... not just a simple formula.
Not for most needs its notQuote:
Originally Posted by Centurius
To start with we are assuming 25% loss from fly to wheels so its always going to be a rough guess.. anyway..
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
Daym.... are you actaully giving some street credit to a turbo D ;) ?
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=83196
what do you turbo D guys think of the kit for sale in that thread?
prety decent price?
would it deffinately fit my d16y8? straght bolt on?
thanks
$2500 gets u a greddy kit, with a computer.
Spend another $300 ish get cooler and piping, run 7psi on the greddy tune.
okay, thanks.
but what [ricer] is selling comes with heaps more
arnt the greddy kits designed to run on low boost?
The GReddy Kit can run more boost than your motor could handle on stock internals...Quote:
Originally Posted by lukecivic
You just need to buy a boost controller
i'd get ricer's kit cos he's already gone through all the drama of getting it setup to run on the D series. The G reddy kit you gotta put it in yourself and then get the other stuff done, like BOV boost controller, and then tune the ECU to get some decent power out of it, not to mention wiring in the ECU
thanks yeah, im checking it out soon hopefully
my car has done 14XXXX kms should i get the engine rebuilt before i boost it?
have most people done that?
Na as long as the motors been looked after :)Quote:
Originally Posted by lukecivic
If you can afford it why not..
I got mine done but only coze my rings were gone :o
Quick update Guys
120kw @ only 5500 RPM with the same problem even after the boost controller installed.
11psi and as the RPM go up the boost dies due to 2" exhaust lol
We hit 129kw at 12psi one run but backed the boost off for safety.
As for the whole pod filter thing Weq was going on about..
Good in theory but not true..
I lost power using the GReddy filter.. so the heat shelfed ones saying :thumbsup:
Nuff said
Need a new head gasket though :(
Luke
new engine would be better
Sort of.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
I got the compressor map for the td04-e. With our engines, its starts loosing efficiency above 12. Its on the edge of 70% on 14psi, any higher, and it just drops, so all ur doing is blowing hot air.
Saw this car rolling onto the Dyno yesterday @ TODA, Pitty I didnt stayed around 2 watch it pump the numbers but looks the goods :)
Thanks broQuote:
Originally Posted by phantom_civic
Witch guy were you?
Its hard to keep up with everyones name lol
I was the asian guy that came out of the mx5 :)
Oh cool man :)Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom_civic
Making 120kw at only 550RPM's I think I'll try to fix this one lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Imagen how much she's make when I can hit 7200RPM
wow nice mate, damn i wish i coulda come see it aswellQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
how much boost were u running to make that?
11psiQuote:
Originally Posted by lukecivic
But I'm only running that amount coze the exhaust is to small lol
Will be back to 8psi when I get 2.5" exhaust..
so im guessing the turbo smart bleed valve helped?? :D
i should try this lmao
Make a big differenceQuote:
Originally Posted by gReY-oNe
No spiks anymore :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Too much timing. D-series engines can take on average 1/2 the timing as a b-series engine. You have to keep combustion pressures down, otherwise you will blow the gasket.
And the filter sucks. I never once said the (dirty) greddy filter was any better.
And the exhaust has little do with the greddy turbo loosing boost. Its all to do with the bleed valves. You need a proper electronic boost controller with closed loop feedback. The stock actuator is really really bad. You need to shorten the arm until its reaches about 9psi off the gate, then get an electronic controller to up the boost from there. I had best success with the GReddy profec B (now called type-S) and the turbosmart eboost's. I tried other electronic controllers, but none could hold the boost over 5500rpm. This was with a 2.5" exhaust. Bleed valves had NOOOO luck at all.
This is a typical australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over.
adding to my last post, u will also find your 2" exhaust is causeing alot of back pressure on the motor. this causes gas reversion.
How do you know there is too much timing? have you seen the dyno chart?
he only owned the fasted D on this site. He only went through all this before.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limbo
Mate we all know you had the fastest D16Y1 round and we salute you!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
Now enough with the ****ing stupid comments!
I don’t mind your input but making statements like “ This is a typical Australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over” is just retarded.
I for one like learning things as I’m doing them and don’t have a problem spending a crappy $26 bucks on a bleed valve just to see what happens.
I’m fully aware I’d more than likely have to go electric after reading some of your early posts..
Quote:
Originally Posted by aimre
Yeah but there's no need to be an ass about it,,
Your not Alex
Luke
nice power .........
time to fix that headgasket and have some 1/4mile fun.
kool, once its uve got the BHG fixed, exhaust and what ever else needs doing it should put out some really good numbers :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
how many kms on your engine?
ive got 14XXXXkms on my d16y8, from what people have told me i wont need to rebuild it ... i sure hope so as its aaaaall adding up now :eek:
110,000 before rebuildQuote:
Originally Posted by lukecivic
about 20,000 now
Yeah it dose add-up quick lol
Im an ass about it because you are giving d-series a bad name. All the b-series guys come in here and all they see is weaksauce weaksauce weaksauce unreliable. Sorry if u dont like my attitude, but when u rep the d, u get it whether u like it or not. What also pisses me off is guys like TODA get mhad reps and still blow up peoples engines. Then they get more money cause they blame the components of peoples setups instead of taking the fall themselves, and to their rep. People come back to them with new setups, they blow them up and then once again play the blame game.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
There is nothing wrong with your setup, there is nothing wrong with your engine management. You should of never blown a headgasket. What has happened is because you exhaust is too small, you wernt making the power it should. So on the dyno toda goes and up's the timing (just like dynodave and all the other experienced tuners) to gain more power and save his rep. Unlike b-series, d-series cant take timing for shit, and all it does is increase combustion pressures to the point were the sleeves move and the headgasket blows. (cause of the added pressures of the RS ratio(amoung other things)). It might not blow on the dyno, but just playing with the timing and settting it that high for a single run starts the time-bomb ticking.
10-14deg total timing at fullboost is all u run at upto 12psi.
The guys running 25psi on stock sleeve, vitara setups are running 3-6deg total. 25psi daily without a hint of blown headgasket. They are putting down easy 11second passes. All the bullsh*t tuners in this country spin is just because they have no idea how to tune a d-series.
Compared this to a guy running 18-20deg total on b-series setup at 10psi.
Now lets see, my advice for changing ur headgasket.
Felpro in the USA have copper coated gaskets. These are your best bet and can be used out of the box. If u get an OEM type gasket, copper coat it. 1 layer, let it dry fully. Apply another layer, let it dry fully. Finally the last layer. Let it get tacky then install. Torque ARPs to 75 (with moly lube) or 85ft/lbs (with engine oil). Anything less then the above, will only result in changing your headgasket again.
PS. Yeh you can learn things yourself, but dont tell me your boost conotroller issue only cost you $25. Add dyno/labour time to that equation also. I got given lots of bad advice. Wasted lots of hours. and lots of burnt knuckles.
just on a note, luke's prob happened before he even boosted it, its only after that he figured out it was a blown gasket.
Copper gaskets are the work of the devil.